Good strong mid-bass. Louder than stink.

They don't go as low as say, 416's.

I would consider a set of subs with 3184's as the easiest way out if you wanna keep it all Altec.

A user here was lucky enough to get a set- just search the board, it was recent.

with subs you don't have to apologize for anything.

Kinda hard to get from down around 20 all the way up to mid bass with one unit...

You could gain a little with different 15's in the 817's, but the 817 is basically a mid bass box. the original intent of this stuff was to punch the sound thru a screen to the back of a theater, remember...

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"There are four boxes to use in the defense of liberty: soap, ballot, jury, ammo. Use in that order."

I don't have any experience with the 921's, but judging by the specs, it looks like it would not go as deep as a 416 but could handle considerably more power. If you are contemplating a sub woofer anyway, try them and see for yourself -- they have a very low Qts with a highish res. frequency( .25 and ~ 35 Hz according to my literature) so they could be excellent upper bass/mid drivers.

I am guessing whoever had this one last replaced the diaphragm wrong with the leads crossed (L1-red/ L2-blk), which was there was a caution in the instructions that someone posted a link to (thanks).

I will, in the future, order some 288 phrams to have a pair of those in order to compare to the 291's. In the meantime I wondering about going about maybe building a xover for the current setup I have now.

I am gonna use the drivers I have now currently to try and get up and running now when I build a xover( MR 64),driver(291-16k), and (4 each side) mid-bass driver (291-8a)in 817a cabs. The reference material says that the 921-16's can go down to 500hz, the 921-8a's can go up to 3.5khz. Is there a simple xover to build for this?

Right now my funds are a bit limited and I think for the time being the dcx2496 is out of my reach. Anyone have a suggestion for a type of xover to get me going till I can afford the dcx? Would it be cheaper for me for me to build one now or just suffer and wait to save for the dcx? Would build a xover be cost effective for now?

I am able to sling solder and troubleshoot.So i look forward to building.I just want to get some sounds going for now and see how this set up sounds. I promise to post pics along the way and I am up too any amount of criticism and suggestions that comes along the way.

Or do you want to build something?

Martin has input plates and boards, plus caps and inductors. Site has a calculator for "textbook" crossovers.

There are literally tons-. Rane and Ashly are generally decent as are many others. There are new Behringer units starting about $75, but better is over $100. But the at $199 for the DCX, as posted in another thread, I'd think twice before spending $125 on a unit.

If you see something rum it by the folks here. Between all of us we've used lot of units.

If you can use a basic passive crossover tutorial, go here:
http://www.passivecrossovers.com/

Written for car stereo, but the technology is the same.

Second order is most common BTW. Again it just depends on what you are looking for- you may have a better idea after reading that tutorial.

Thanks for the info,, and I will be posting a lot more questions/ pics in the next few weeks/ months...

Well I saw a post recently that linked directly to it , I think it was one of the posts in the MR horn post. I went to it and saw that it worked, and found the xover networks.

What would be a nice xover point for the 921-8a's, since the pdf says it goes go up to 3.5khz and the pdf for the 921-16k's with the MR64 horn says recommended @ 800hz....

Looks like the N500F network would work, but Is it the same as the schematic of the N500G? If so I could just replicate that and would that be cool?

I doubt I would have to use any $$$ unobtanium caps,resistors and inductors for parts would I ?

I will be the last one to give you any tech support. In fact, a few months ago, O G recommended me to read that site as well. To make it short, I built my passive crossover from the scratch. It was fun. But it wasn't cheap. If you are thinking about your wallet, a $50-$100 active crossover is hard to beat. If you have all the parts necessary in your hands, then it's a different story.

Tim

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Some where over the rainbow-upgrading will end?

What did you spend on building yours?
What is your set-up like?

My set up is 414-16b/811. And I copied 800nf crossover which is a two way/second order. I budgeted the whole project for $50ish. Boy, I was way off! I ended up spending well over $100. For example, I needed 4 inductors. I spent $50 plus for those, alone. At one point, I thought about winding my own inductors. But it was way over my head. But take a look at some of the inductor values you need here. Plus, shipping, etc. It will give you some ideas.

http://www.partsexpress.com/mfg/jantzen/jantzen.cfm#15gauge

If you can get a used active for $50-$100, and I think you can, that's a bargain.