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Author Topic: Battery alert / RetroX single 8 / Fuji Z-2
megalith6
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posted April 09, 2008 04:16 PM      Profile for megalith6   Author's Homepage   Email megalith6   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Hi,

was amazed to find A14PX light meter batteries were still being made. i had always fiddled two, slim 1.35v cell batteries into the Z-2's battery compartment, so today i strode purposefully outdoors, toting camera + single, chunky 3v battery: disaster ~ whatever i pointed the camera at it registered massive overexposure, and i ended up manually fumbling with the aperture control doing 'guestimates', wondering if the light meter had totalled itself?

soon home - i shook the offending 3v battery from its compartment and replaced the two 1.35's: instantly, the light meter began to record sane aperture values from F2.8 to F5.6 . It seems that the extra 0.3 volts delivered by the A14PX is enough to squew the meter completely?

addmitedly, i was using the new 'Super8' type film customised to Single 8 cassette format, rated at ASA 200 - pretty fast / light sensitive - but the 3 volt battery rendered the aperture useless, jammed over at F.8 / minimal aperture for the Z-2, even pointing the camera at the floor!

does anybody know if the original, single cell battery called PX-14, rated at 2.7volts, is available? the A14PX is marketed as a replacement for the PX-14, which it certainly isn't! :-o

luckily i have another cassette of RetroX and the weather is set to hold for tomorrow

bests

Ric

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ric


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Alex
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posted April 09, 2008 06:30 PM      Profile for Alex   Author's Homepage   Email Alex   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
200 ASA film is difficult to gauge outside in many circumstances because it is too sensitive.

I understand you pointed the camera at the ground but was this inside or outside?

If you covered the lens with your hands (without actually touching the lens) how low does the f-stop go?

Do you have any outdated Kodachrome 40 since all cameras meter that film correctly? What about Velvia 50? Those two cartridges are probably the most accurate for using to see how well a camera's metering system is working for outdoors shooting.

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megalith6
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posted April 10, 2008 05:38 PM      Profile for megalith6   Author's Homepage   Email megalith6   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
thanks Alex,

yes - the RetroX is incredibly light sensitive for an old-time ciné @ asa200; but the reason i'm using it, is that a) i can backwind on a Fuji cam, and b) i can home-develop it the way i develop Super8 Tri-x [Lomo method]

the Z-2 is pre-TTL metered and has a separate 'electronic eye'; when i cover this, the meter needle drops back to 'underexpose'; using the double 1.35v batteries, i can get the meter to hover between F5.6-F8, under normal-bright outdoor conditions; several times i had recourse to stopping the 'eye' down 2 stops, and matching this with the Fractional Exposure Control, which is a procedure recommended for very bright conditions

how does this sound, please?

thanks again

Ric

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megalith6
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posted April 12, 2008 03:58 PM      Profile for megalith6   Author's Homepage   Email megalith6   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
of course, if this experiment with Single 8 RetroX turns out ok, i will be looking to follow it up with some Fujichrome Velvia 50 Professional film - in Single 8 cassettes - which will have a more orthodox ASA for this particular ciné camera?

R

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Alex
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posted April 12, 2008 05:01 PM      Profile for Alex   Author's Homepage   Email Alex   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
quote:
Originally posted by megalith6:
thanks Alex,

yes - the RetroX is incredibly light sensitive for an old-time ciné @ asa200; but the reason i'm using it, is that a) i can backwind on a Fuji cam, and b) i can home-develop it the way i develop Super8 Tri-x [Lomo method]

the Z-2 is pre-TTL metered and has a separate 'electronic eye'; when i cover this, the meter needle drops back to 'underexpose'; using the double 1.35v batteries, i can get the meter to hover between F5.6-F8, under normal-bright outdoor conditions; several times i had recourse to stopping the 'eye' down 2 stops, and matching this with the Fractional Exposure Control, which is a procedure recommended for very bright conditions

how does this sound, please?

thanks again

Ric


ASA 200 hovering between 5.6 to 8.0 sounds in normal daylight seems to me to be about 2-4 stops overexposed. I would guess proper exposure to be between F16 to F32. Unless you are pointing the camera into shady areas of the sunshade variety.

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megalith6
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posted April 13, 2008 09:08 AM      Profile for megalith6   Author's Homepage   Email megalith6   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Alex wrote: "ASA 200 hovering between 5.6 to 8.0 sounds in normal daylight seems to me to be about 2-4 stops overexposed. I would guess proper exposure to be between F16 to F32. Unless you are pointing the camera into shady areas of the sunshade variety."

hm,

the light meter calibration goes " F1.8 - 2.8 - 4 - 8 ", although there are 'dots' beside the F8 which suggest a smaller F-stop, perhaps up to F16/32 at the extreme limit of the calibration: in which case, the metering is probably ok, since the needle remained in the higher register, throughout?

be interesting to see what the meter makes of the asa 50 Velvia when it turns up?

[lol]

thanks

R

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Alex
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posted April 14, 2008 02:06 AM      Profile for Alex   Author's Homepage   Email Alex   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Fuji Velvia 50D ASA, in bright sunlight at 18 frames per second, 220 degree shutter, I'd probably set the f-stop at either f11-f16 split, or a straight f-16.

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megalith6
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posted April 14, 2008 04:44 PM      Profile for megalith6   Author's Homepage   Email megalith6   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
sounds cool, Alex - thanks

these new filmstocks are going to motivate me to process my own colour film [Thumbs up]

later

R

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Alex
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posted April 16, 2008 07:33 PM      Profile for Alex   Author's Homepage   Email Alex   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
Not that you need to care what I think, I think it's great that you are adventurous enough to process yourself, I just like to see the labs supported with our business. Without the labs, there probably wouldn't be any film sold at all.

[ April 17, 2008 02:22 AM: Message edited by: Alex ]

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megalith6
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posted April 16, 2008 10:05 PM      Profile for megalith6   Author's Homepage   Email megalith6   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
that's true, Alex; but/and it's also important we all continue to buy film, which is also going to keep the 8mm industry going; for a big project, i would send off about 3/4 to 2/3 of my films to a lab [there are none left in the UK], but since *experimental film* is my 8mm enthusiasm, i am obviously chamfing at the bit to play with chemicals and so forth - i have already developed about 100ft of b/w in the Lomo: i'm afriad i am hooked!

lol

bests

R

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Alex
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posted April 17, 2008 02:25 AM      Profile for Alex   Author's Homepage   Email Alex   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
That's so sad that there no UK labs left. I guess Pro-8mm did a number in the UK and then left.

Have you considered starting a business processing super-8 film? Do a processing run every Friday, find a specialty niche, like black and white, or color reversal.... There might be more work there then you think.

Especially if you hook up with the transfer houses in the UK and they start referring customers to you. lol, of course you probably wouldn't be doing it out of a lomo tank.

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megalith6
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posted April 22, 2008 06:00 PM      Profile for megalith6   Author's Homepage   Email megalith6   Send New Private Message      Edit/Delete Post  Reply With Quote 
that's a nice idea, Alex - but i'd need multiple lives!

Ric

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