View Full Version : insulation/parts source

February 5th, 2005, 07:14 AM
i've been pondering my chambers restoration for a long while now, and so i have a lot of questions. i'm going to dump some of them here.

let's go:

i found a cheap source of high-quality insulation (kaowool, ebay, see my sig for links). the stuff that's there now (at least for the oven) is sealed in there. i know it's really rusty underneath since the one screw that when through there broke in half while i was removing it, and i'd like to stop what deteroration i can. any one have experience doing this? seen it turn out bad? I plan on reinsulating both the well and the oven.

gas shut-off valves: TOAC has one they sell.. anyone used it?

griddle burner: mine has a busted tooth that is used to raise it up. it's small, and a replacement could be surely be welded back on, but who do you got to for tiny welds? it's like a half cm-squared in area.

re-painting? the stove was painted black over the porcelan/enamel/whatever it's called. How can i remove the black paint safely?

cleaning/polishing tips? The guy who sold me the manual said to use 000 steel wool. This was a bad idea. It left scratches. What do you use to clean off the dirt of the ages?

increasing firepower: my service manual says that the burners are either 9k BtU or 12k BTU (don't have it in front of me).. I want more! Do any chambers models come with 6-head tulip caps (as opposed to the 4-head ones that are default).. i seem to recall seeing them somewhere, but cant find it again. Could it just be a matter of switching out the orifice?

thanks for any ideas or suggestions, and thanks to Mr. White for putting this board together.

February 5th, 2005, 10:48 PM
I'm about done with a modest restore on a C-90 but much of this may help.

First of all, my "Miss Alma" was in pretty good shape, but there were parts that had been damaged, for safety reasons I wanted installed or replaced. Throughout, the folks at TOAC and their materials were top rate. I couldn't believe the safety valve assembly they fabricated for the stove pilot fit like a glove and arrived with a drill bit and a tap required for the one manifold connection.

As for steel wool, for get it. I started with a small steam generator and then went to work with various solvents (depending on the surface) starting with simple ammonia. On some areas, I found that pumace paste worked well, but on the chrome top I never went harsh. A few discolored areas of the porcelan (Alma is white) came back very well with jeweler's rogue.

The weld job seems perfect for a local auto shop. The guys who do my cars have zapped a few small pieces for me with nothing more than a bribe of a platter of ribs one November afternoon.

Finally, the "paint" removal is really a matter of determining what the stuff is. Different paints respond to different solvents. Best bet (if you can) is to bring a chip to a local paint or hardware store and ask them. Otherwise, buy a few pints of different solvents and test a small spot. BUT BE CAREFUL. I don't mean to patronize, you sound well versed; however, working on a surface that large with solvents must be done with great care and lots of air.

Sorry ... no experience with insul. or 6 cluster burners.

Good Luck


February 8th, 2005, 08:52 PM
As to the stove top, are you sure you want to even attempt paint removal? Your stove will look so much better if the top is re-porcelained since the top is such an eye-catcher. The prices for re-porcelaining seem to vary totally: I know of a place that's an hour east of me that wants $350 (I think she farms it out, so I think most of that is her mark-up), and I found a place one hour west of me who does the work directly for $75 (I'm in Southern California.) So it does pay to shop.

February 9th, 2005, 12:16 AM
the fold-down top? my stovetop is chrome..

$75 sounds like a pretty good deal. How did you find these places? stove repair in the yellowpages?

February 9th, 2005, 12:34 AM
I meant the stove "top", not the fold-down cover. Sorry, the Owner's Manual has specific names for each part and I've gotten accustomed to calling them their "book" name. :-) One of the hazards of doing it yourself, I suppose. I've stared at that manual until I've nearly gone blind some nights.

You might be lucky enough to find local re-porcelaining and re-chroming services in your phone book, but I had to resort to the web. The cheapest source so far has been:


It's within driving distance for me so I don't have to pay the freight (and tops are darned heavy.) The prices I was quoted over the phone was $20 for a burner, and $75 for the top. I asked why she was so cheap and she laughed and said because the rest were bringing their work to her! I can't vouch for the quality yet since I haven't dropped my parts off yet. I'll be doing that on Friday, and it takes 10 working days to get them back. I'd be happy to give an update as to whether or not I would recommend after I've tried them out.

Here's another link that has a bunch of good stove restoration resources:


I think we have similar stoves. If I remember correctly, you're in the SF Bay area, in Calif., right? I nice elderly lady from Palo Alto gave me her stove. It had been in her estate home since it was new (it is about a 1939 model, I think.) Her son replaced it with a Viking in the main house. It's been a project-and-a-half, but I hope to one day say it's all been worth it.

I'm happy to share any resources I've discovered, if you need it. Last night I rewired my 2 lights (my Model B has the high-back with lights on either side.) I got all the parts from Lowe's for less than $30. I had the covers rechromed, and then replaced the light sockets and wiring (my original wiring was shot.) It looks nice and I think will work out well. If you plan on doing something similar, let me know and I'll find the wrappers to what I bought. :-)


February 22nd, 2005, 02:42 PM
Sammy mentioned on another thread that Rock Wool is cheap and available. Anyone know of a place online or in the Houston, Tx area that sells this?