View Full Version : oven pilot & broiler pilot

March 9th, 2005, 11:54 PM
Just had our bright red stove hooked up!!!
have a Chambers 90C circa 1955.
Oven pilot goes out when oven valve is turned off And when oven reaches temp. Do I have to light it every time? Also what is purpose of "Oven by-pass" which also goes off when valve is shut off?
The big question is where is the pilot for the broiler? (if there is one)

Todd W. White
March 10th, 2005, 02:09 AM

Welcome to the CHAMBERS family!

OK, here's the scoop on how the oven works:

1. Some of the later model C's came with pilot lights on the oven. It was a very small "mini pilot" type. There has always been a pilot for the Thermowell and top burners, and never one for the broiler that I am aware of. These models included a safety shut-off valve, a thermocouple, and the little pilot for the oven.

2. If your "C" does not have the safety valve and pilot light, then it works using a "bypass flame" method.

Here's how that works:

A. The oven thermostat is set to the desired temperature.

B. The oven door is opened. The large handle controlling the flow of gas to the oven is turned fully on (9 o'clock position), and the burner is lit with a match at the small tube in the front center of the bottom of the oven (at the floor).

C. The burner lights, and the door is GENTLY shut.

D. The oven begins the preheating process. Being very efficient, it ramps up to temperature quickly.

E. When it gets to the pre-determined temperature set on the dial of the thermostat, the capillary tube, which is located at the back of the oven (it looks like a piece of large plumbers solder) sends a signal back up to the thermostat saying "It's just right in here - you can shut the main gas off now!", and the thermostat dutifully shuts off the feed of gas to the main burner.

F. At this point, though, the flame on the burner does not go out. Instead, the flame lowers to about 1/8" high and remains on, being fed, not by the main gas line, but by a very small line coming from the "bypass valve" on the thermostat.

G. The bypass flame stays on until the temperature inside drops too low, at which point the capillary tube tells the thermostat "It's time kick up the temperature - send us more gas!" So, the thermostat opens up and sends the full gas back down to the burner, the flame goes up high to 3/4" again, and, wella! - the temperature goes back up! This process is then repeated until you are through cooking (of course, if you cook with the gas turned OFF, this process doesn't happen).

H. The KEY is to make sure the bypass is the right height (see the Service Manual), AND that IF YOU OPEN THE OVEN WHILE IT IS COOKING <font size="4">DO NOT</font> SLAM THE OVEN DOOR SHUT - YOU COULD BLOW OUT THE BYPASS FLAME! INSTEAD, JUST SHUT IT <font size="4">GENTLY!!!!</font>

I. Most of the time, when people think they have a bad pilot light or bad thermostat (because "My pilot light keeps going out.", or "My oven won't stay on."), it's actually because the bypass flame and/or thermostat are out of adjustment, or they are jsut slamming the oven door instead of closing it properly.

The thing to do is:

1. Make SURE the thermostat and bypass flame height are properly calibrated.

2. Make sure you don't slam the oven door shut.

3. If you feel like you must, get a safety system, but beware - there are a lot of rip-off's out there! Be sure anything you buy or have installed is designed specifically for a CHAMBERS, and that there is a guarantee on the parts and/or labor!

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ March 09, 2005 10:15 PM: Message edited by: Todd W. White ]</font>

March 10th, 2005, 03:27 AM
Todd, I feel smarter already. Thanks for the lesson!


<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ March 10, 2005 09:05 AM: Message edited by: vtran265 ]</font>

March 10th, 2005, 05:01 AM
Hey Todd, good answer!....But you didn't sell him a Service Manual!

March 10th, 2005, 02:04 PM
Thanks for the wealth of information! We have the service manual and will keep everyone updated on our progress.So far everything seems to be working properly. We are amazed at the sophistication of these beautiful machines!

March 13th, 2005, 09:51 PM
I understand how that works
Now-- is the pilot (without a safty) and the oven by-pass a duplication? should I adjust one and turn the other off?

Todd W. White
March 14th, 2005, 01:22 AM
Are you saying that your oven has a standing pilot light?

March 14th, 2005, 04:36 PM
Hey ya'll, I think we are getTing confused on terminalogy. Open the Cabinet Door (sometimes called the Serviceman's Door or the Warmer Door) and pull out the Cabinet Bottom. Stick your head in the door opening and look down. If you see a Automatic Pilot valve (It has a Red button on top), Then you have an "AUTOMATIC SAFETY PILOT". That means that there is a standing pilot (On all the time) with a thermocouple in the oven. This type of pilot should burn all the time. Should this pilot go out, the valve with the red button will shut off gas to the oven and this pilot.....Now, you still have your head in the service cabinet, look down again..... No valve with red button, then you have a "SAFETY PILOT" in the oven. It is controled by the Thermostat. It's only purpose is to relight the oven burner if the oven burner goes out while on "Bypass" or sometimes called "Minimum Oven Burner Flame". The "Automatic Safety Pilot" is what that Kitchen Ranger in Ca. is selling for 400+ bucks. Hope this helps, Sam

March 14th, 2005, 04:44 PM
I correct myself, "Automatic Safety Pilot" should read "Automatic Oven Pilot"...Oh, I forgot, you can take your head out of the service cabinet!

March 16th, 2005, 11:47 PM
Terminology was the problem
I am Very familiar with a thermocoupling and the control valve. I DO NOT have this. I have many propane appliances. The RED STOVE uses natural gas and that is unfamiliar to me. Your explaination of the "saftey pilot" answered my question.