Depth of Field slider on my camera...? (Bell & Howell MS-45)

[Shortend]

Altering shutter speed will only result in change of depth of field if you change apeture. If you compensated by changing film speed or adding more light you can get the strobe effect without changing depth of feild. There are dozens of ways to do things and each has a different effect. Adding more light may change the mood, and the contrast, so does adjusting the iris, but that effects the entire scene in addition to depth of field. Where as ND can reduce the entire light level of the scene, changing mood, without changing iris or depth of field. Bottom line is that increasing shutter speed to force an increase in apeture creates an effect that may not be desired. Adding diffusion is different than adding a scrim, even though they both cut down on light. Pulling a light back to decrease intensity results in the opposite quality of light than diffusing it to decrease intensity. So many permutationsso little time.

I typically decide what depth of field I need, taking into account distance between camera subject and background, as well as ambient light, figure what f/stop I need and work to achieve that through lighting and camer position. I generally shoot an interview at 2.8 unless we have much ambient light in which case I'll shout 5.6 or 8 but I like to get greater distance and use a longer lens to soften the background.

Anyway I'm just rambling now, I'm happy to finally be able to post. Serious problems with my Netscape browser, but I'm using Microsoft now.

[Alex]

Hello Photoman. Photoman also owns a Bell & Howell MS-45. Anymore forum members get one and we'll have to start a users group! [img]cool.gif[/img]

[Mike Buckles]

sounds good to me!!!

[photoman8]

According to my B&H MS45 owners manual (page 13), the little "dial" under the film cartridge is initially referred to as a "density adjustment", then clarified later in the paragraph as an exposure compensation dial. It simply biases the meter toward over-or-under exposure. With the dial centered (two white dots aligned) the meter sets exposure with no bias. Turn the dial clockwise to bias toward over-exposure, and counter-clockwise to underexpose. Experimenting with mine, it appears that it can compensate by nearly 1 EV either way. I shoot mine set at about 1/3 EV under, which seems to help saturate colors a little, but can increase contrast.

Referring to the specifications listed ot page 25, the shutter opening is fixed at 225 degrees and provides 1/30 second exposure at 18 fps.

Hope this helps in some small way.

Great to be a part of this board!

[Mike Buckles]

Photoman, you are great!!! I lost my owner's manual about 10 years ago, and I had forgotten what the instructions said about that dial...very glad to have you on the forum!!! When you say that it underexposing makes the picture have more contrast, what does it look like...I get confused when people say Kodachrome is very "contrasty"...not sure what they mean. Mikey B

[Mike Buckles]

Ok, I know what contrast is..sorry..a "duh" moment...just curious as to what "too contrasty" means.

[Alex]

Too contrasty means the ability of the film to pick up darker areas and lighter areas is lessened. I wonder if it's safe to say that properly exposed Kodachrome has the contrast values equal to video.

(or has video improved to the point where that statement is no longer true?)

[photoman8]

My Sony Digital-8 camcorder sees the light admitted by an open case FAR LESS frequently than does my MS-45!

[Alex]

In low light situations where Kodachrome needs more light than can be supplied, I would agree with you.

But what about shooting outside in the middle of the day?

[Mike Buckles]

Thanks for the explanation...It's my opinion that a Kodachrome movie has a lot more contrast than video...