15hrs until i land. Ill be pulling off the backs in 16hrs. Can't wait to see what I have
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Cool! This is a goody with autoformer and impedance compensation originally designed for the big 'A' series theater horns. Being tar filled [or epoxy if late ones], not fun to replace caps........... That said, potted components last a lot longer, so probably don't need replacing plus if PCB filled PIO caps you'll be hard pressed to find better sounding ones.Originally Posted by orangedude71
Re cloth grills, must ideally be stretched 'tight as a drum' and braced in larger sizes, so consider using a metal grid such as wood framed fencing covered with [very] open cell foam found at pond supply emporiums.
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
15hrs until i land. Ill be pulling off the backs in 16hrs. Can't wait to see what I have
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803b driver and 802d with n500d crossover. All 16ohm.. Well everyone. How did I do and what's the first mod to make?
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Also. Anyone want to see this f I guessed right on polarity? Plus side is copper color?
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Nice!
a little bit of green for a whole lot green.
how does it sound out of the box?
Sonic Barbarian
going from a bookshelf on a speaker stand to these things was quite the shift. All of a sudden I have soundstage and volume with half the amp power. One of the attenuators appears to be broken, theres no indents in the rotation, but i didn't notice any issues with its performance. Tomorrow i need to finish re-arraning the room to get the speakers towards the corners.. Is there any consensus on best speaker placement for these? near a corner? away from the wall?a little bit of green for a whole lot green.
how does it sound out of the box?
http://www.hostboard.com/forums/f700/280439-new-altec-owner-here-looking-forward-joining.html
803B same as 416A, 802D is much preferred over later 806, though at this late date the alum. diaphragms have probably work harden, so long term may want to get the modern GPA replacements. IIRC the N500D is a G without the impedance compensation, so if driven with a high output impedance they will sound a bit more 'loose'/'warm' overall, which many low DF tube amp aficionados prefer.
Depends on how much you paid for them.
Most obvious to the ear tweaks are damping the HF horn bell, seriously bracing/mass loading the mid-bass horn flares. Rethinking the vent system will make a significant difference also, but requires a bit of tedious woodworking unless the cab is flipped over and the horn mounted externally on top.
Seems reasonable, though it's not necessarily the XO's positive [+] as back then, one hooked up by ear [pg. 9]: 1960'S ENCLOSURE PLANS
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
You did well. 803B/416A and 802D is what should be in there, and what i would expect.How did I do and what's the first mod to make?
Your first mod should be cleaning up the Cadmium Oxide without breathing any of it.
Not all vegetables make good leaders.
So happy for you and the purchase you've made! You should be having quite a lot of fun.
Modifications: Listen to them for a while before beginning mods. That will determine exactly what you like and do not like about the speakers. Want more bass extension? There are mods for that. Do the horns sound too "horny?" LOTS of crossover mods/builds to address that, as well.
As GM pointed out, the one mod that practically everybody does is extensive stiffening of the curved panels (the horn) that surround the woofer. These resonate in stock condition and need to be either re-enforced with more bracing and/or deadening materials. There are numerous threads on this process here, on Lansing Heritage Forums, and AudioKarma, among others. Same for the crossover/equalization process.
Just listen to them, move them around your room and experiment with placement. Once you've found the "sweet spot" and have a good handle on what impresses you and what aggravates you, you will be ready to dive in and fix what you don't like and improve what you do like.
Just tell us what you think about their sound and the experts here will guide you smoothly through the process. I'm looking forward to watching!
GeeDeeEmm
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Yep. That's the powdery-looking substance on your mounting brackets. It is highly toxic and needs to be removed. There are a number of threads on the subject. Just do a google search.
(Over the years, I have removed lots of this stuff without knowing it is toxic. I just brushed it off and breathed it right in without any thought whatsoever. I've seen recommendations that suggest sealing the surfaces with clear coat spray paint after it's removed.)
GeeDeeEmm
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