Crossover Mods to a ALTEC N801-8A

[LowOhms]

Hello,

This is a mod I did this week, for a nice friend in Switzerland, a LENCO expert, who wanted to retain a stock " looking" crossover, yet have it improved in performance.

The first thing I did was to replace all the chintzy stock ALTEC 18, or is it 20 AWG ??, wiring with a high quality Mil Spec wire, my cost-versus-performance favorite of all - m223759-11, in 16 AWG.

The stock Callins caps were replaced by modern WIMA DC LINK 15 uF 4 terminal " main caps " in the woofer and tweeter section. This slightly raises the crossover frequency, no problem. The absolute value of a crossover cap, is FAR FAR FAR overshadowed by the quality of the caps used;. remember that always.

On the higher frequency crossover circuit, I multiple-film-bypassed the main 15 uF DC LINK, with a carefully chosen ( values and type) "quad" of paralleled bypass caps, to play the top end properly. This transforms the ALTEC speaker, from playing midrange-centric when using a single cap ( or multiples - not well executed ) , to having a good top end. Think harpsichord playback !!



http://imageshack.com/a/img922/3958/E6Tbrn.jpg




The leads, from crossover to the speakers, are soldered onto the four output terminals, as they should be.

I use double 12 AWG ( effectively 9 AWG ) to each woofer polarity, and 16 AWG single runs ( so as not to lose the delicate highs, with too large a wire ) to the tweeter. The woofer leads at the speaker ends are soldered directly to the terminal that the lead-in wire to the voice coil is attached to. This beneficially eliminates the ALTEC woofer's press-to-fit speaker connector, which to my ears is a sonic degrade, versus soldering to the inner terminals.

The heavy double 12 AWG Mil Spec wire is tie-wrapped to the frame, at the woofer, to eliminate accidental tug - damage. All leads are Robert Fulton lengths, 57 1/8th inches.

Do I do this different than most ? I think so.



http://imageshack.com/a/img923/1626/bqejHp.jpg



Notice, I have added a bracket, to prevent damage to the stock ALTEC black phenolic terminal board, on the rear cover. The double 12s are tie-wrapped at the back crossover cover, as a strain relief.

Have a lovely day .


Low Ohms.....Jeff Medwin

[Elitopus1]

From the pics you sent me it looks like you did a good job upgrading the crossovers. I still would have upgraded the binding posts too. I know it wouldn't look original, but in this case thats a good thing.

I changed out the binding posts on my N801-8a xovers with some from parts express. Now they will accept 12awg wire. They were around 10 bucks for the pair. The xovers were not modified to fit the new posts. The originals could be put back for resale if desired

[Phil-G]

that looks like a lot of work. but as much as we tease you. chances are they will sound great.

[Elitopus1]

but as much as we tease you. chances are they will sound great.

+1

[LowOhms]

From the pics you sent me it looks like you did a good job upgrading the crossovers. I still would have upgraded the binding posts too. I know it wouldn't look original, but in this case thats a good thing.

I changed out the binding posts on my N801-8a xovers with some from parts express. Now they will accept 12awg wire. They were around 10 bucks for the pair. The xovers were not modified to fit the new posts. The originals could be put back for resale if desired

Hello,

Currently, I have N-809-8As and two pairs of N801-8As in my home. The N-801-8As have a " press to fit " spring loaded speaker connection. The N809-8As have a 1/4 inch phone plug as the speaker connection.

It would be easy to remove the N-809-8A's phone jacks, and convert to a pair of threaded speaker posts.

But , with both of my N801-8As, I would have to "drill out" the stock ALTEC aluminum casting, to get the speaker binding posts to fit in place. That would be non-reversible, unlike what you posted.

Are you certain you converted N801-8As to binding posts......or, was it really an N809-8A you had on hand. Double check that please.

Also, I need to warn you, any $10.00 pair of binding posts will have a aural thumbprint impacting negatively, upon one's entire audio system and listening experience.

The minimum quality to use is Cardas brand binding posts - silver-rhodium plated over tellurium copper from Michael Percy. For a stereo set, they are $75, long and $66 short. Check them out. Very transparent sounding. Nice part!!

Have fun. I do !!


Low ohms......Jeff Medwin

[Elitopus1]

The ones I got from PE sit on a little pad just like the originals. You do have to drill out the rivet in the middle, which I think is no big deal, but thats it. Honestly the posts are very similar to the stock ones except they accept larger gauge wire. I guess if one didn't want to replace the rivet with a screw, or couldn't rivet the old one back in, it would be slightly not original.

Those crossovers are not currently in use. I don't use binding posts on my speakers in my current setup. The wires are soldered to the xover and then run in the cab. I would have to disconnect the wires from the amp to move the speakers. Lucky for me I only have to move the speakers to vacuum up the Austrailian Shepherd fur from time to time

Honestly Jeff, I know that if those were your speakers you would probably choose better performance over having original binding posts anyway. So it really doesn't matter

[LowOhms]

The ones I got from PE sit on a little pad just like the originals. You do have to drill out the rivet in the middle, which I think is no big deal, but thats it. Honestly the posts are very similar to the stock ones except they accept larger gauge wire. I guess if one didn't want to replace the rivet with a screw, or couldn't rivet the old one back in, it would be slightly not original.

Those crossovers are not currently in use. I don't use binding posts on my speakers in my current setup. The wires are soldered to the xover and then run in the cab. I would have to disconnect the wires from the amp to move the speakers. Lucky for me I only have to move the speakers to vacuum up the Austrailian Shepherd fur from time to time

Honestly Jeff, I know that if those were your speakers you would probably choose better performance over having original binding posts anyway. So it really doesn't matter

You wrote

" Honestly Jeff, I know that if those were your speakers you would probably choose better performance over having original binding posts anyway. ".

You got that right. We both have "hardwired" our speaker cables to the input of the crossover, in my case, a total DIY crossover, with NO terminals, special multiple film caps., and only soldered connections. I also solder the crossover's Mil Spec output leads, 57 1/6th inches long off the crossover, directly onto the ALTEC drivers, for added fidelity.


Jeff.....Low Ohms