Mid Bass Horn Design 80-800 Hz

[Steve Mac]

No...you can check out the refurbishing and redesign of the original prototype cabinets made by BASSMAXX for the B1 here:
http://www.steevee.com/subwoofer/subwoofer.htm

[Steve Mac]

Thanks Steve...okay tee-nuts it is. I don't wanna be on anyone's bleeding edge. But I've seen different quality levels of these tee nuts. Anybody know who makes the best ones?

[donaldpatten]

Steve
Remember to cover the back side of the T nuts with a small block of wood glued over the hole. This will seal the hole and keep the T nut from being pushed in.
Don

[Steve Mac]

Originally posted by Steve Mac:
</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by GM:
According to this calculator, 1.0 gal = 37.882002400000005 Kg.

GM

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">W=mass*gravity
kilograms are a unit of mass...but it is used interchangeably with weight...which it actually isn't.
Weight = 3.28kg * 9.8m/s^2 = 32.144 Newtons
1 pound = 4.45 Newtons
32.144/4.45 = 7.23lbs.
gross weight or net weight...?

The thing is, if you give me gallons...then give me pounds, and tell me gross or net please.</font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">The label on the can says 1 gallon(1.36kg),
not 3.28 so calculating again...I think bfish is finally getting to me...
Weight = 1.36kg * 9.8m/s^2 = 12.24 Newtons
1 pound = 4.45 Newtons
12.24/4.45 = 2.75lbs.

Now it may make sense how the company screwed up the label. 4 * 2.75 = 11lbs... and what did I say I measured? 11.5 pounds. They've got the mass for 1 quart on their can not a gallon. ha ha ha

[Steve Mac]

Originally posted by donaldpatten:
Steve
Remember to cover the back side of the T nuts with a small block of wood glued over the hole. This will seal the hole and keep the T nut from being pushed in.
Don

<font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">This is a good idea, thanks Don. 8 of the bolt holes are in the horn and 8 are outside the sidewalls. I turned the speaker holes in this fashion so it would clean up for assembly. The ones on the outside will be covered by the mounting board for the sidewalls to the rear chamber so I get half of them covered for free. Yeah, and it's cool when you can design out work. Anyway, it'll be easier to see when I take a pic, which should be soon. The 8 holes on the inside could use some safety backing:

For this I need to go higherfi.com because it's the front of the horn and it must be alive, eclectic, moving, intriguing, hi tech and involve the listener in the pinnacle of aesthetic brilliance.

[Steve Mac]

Here's a pic of the two boards I'm attaching to the sidewalls:
Picture

[bfish]

I'm glad it's really not too late. Emmies in the airway would have taken the fun out of it. (I laughed for 10 minutes, just imagining that scene).

No help on hurricanes, my nutty experiences are mostly the Belleview variety.

I have used the threaded brass inserts Steve suggested, expensive, but secure. Great where you can't drill clear through.

[Steve Schell]

Steve, I had to go searching the web to find a picture of a hurricane nut. I found this thread, which includes includes comments from a fellow who says they spin out too easily. Makes sense to me, as only the little tabs on the barrel would prevent spinning. On standard T nuts the aggressive shark fins on the flange do a good job of securing the nut.

I install T nuts by countersinking the depth of the flange with a Forstner bit, then drilling out the hole to the diameter of the barrel (or even a bit smaller). Each nut is installed by using a hex bolt/fender washer and ratchet to pull the nut into final position.

[bfish]

How bout finished-head elevator bolts?

paint em, plate em...

snap a Pez head on them...

[Steve Mac]

I'll have to check those out...thanks.
Here's a few pics where I've mounted the wood boards to the side wall and have clamped them into position to set.
Picture 1
Picture 2
Picture 3