"Home processing" Super-8 tri-x rev.

[monobath]

Could this negative film be telecined, maybe with a Workprinter, and then edited to a positive image and output to VHS or DVD?

If this is possible, and assuming the negative film was processed well to start with, would the final output look good? I know that's very subjective, but what I really mean is, would it look like normal positive film when played back on DVD or VHS?

It's easier to home process negative film than positive. The chemistry for negative film is more readily available and the processing steps are simpler. I'm going to try the B&W positive processing within a week or two when the chemicals I've ordered arrive, but I'd prefer to use a negative process for stuff that isn't going to be projected directly if the quality can be as good as with positive.

[FastFilms]

I know this topic has been covered many times before but I have to tell you guys something I tried at work a few months back.
I had been wanting to process my own b@w super-8 film at home to see if I could do it succesfully without any glitches. I had read a post that had a link that said that the reversal film could be processed as a neg. this got me thinking... what if I could process the film at work? See, I work at a one hour color processing lab and we also do b@w neg. processing. I took a chance... After shooting some test footage outside,
I broke open one of the two unused rolls of super-8 tri-x ( in a darkbox) and loaded about 20 feet into an old Super-8 Sound reloadable cartridge a had never used that I still had back from 1993. I processed the film and it actually worked!!
The only down side was that it was a negative image when projected and was full of specks of dust, but it worked!!!
It actually looked as though I shot the film back in the 1940's!!

Michael

[woods01]

I've hand processed about 400 feet of tri-x to
negative. Each time I do it I have gotten better
in reducing scratches to the emulsion. Which is
always a problem using the "bucket method". For
everyone interested in giving it a try this
is what I do:

Get four 4L ice cream buckets or something
similar for your chemicals.

1. Turn out the lights and smash the cartidge
with a hammer. Spool the film into the water.

2. Place in D19 Developer for 2 minutes Plus-X
or 4 min tri-x

3. Water Rinse

4. Stop Bath - 1 min

5. Water Rinse

6. Fix - 3 min

7. Wash + Dry!

You now have black and white negative. You have
two options. One is do your normal video transfer
and have your editing software make a positive.
Or while you are recording of the screen have your
video camera make the positive IF the camera has
a negative function.

Doing this will give you a scratched up image. If
you want a clean image spend the cash and get a
lab to do it, but if you are on a budget then this
is a cheap as it gets!

[Actor]

Both Plus-X and Tri-X are slower if processed aa negatives. If you let the notching system prevail then your film will be underexposed and that is not the way to go for negatives. According to Kodak's website..

<ul type="square">[*]Plus-X is ASA 20T/25D w/o the filter[*]Tri-X is ASA 100T/125D[/list]

i.e., the Plus-X is one stop slower and the Tri-X is 2/3 stop slower.

[woods01]

Well I just finished developing some Plus-X and
everything came out over-exposed. I admit that
I screwed up a bit with the timing and had the
film in the developer for about 2min 30sec. I'm
unfamilar with how shortening or lengthening the
developer time leads to a pull or push effect. I
think that that error was part of the problem.

I shot indoors and outdoors. Using the 20/25 asa
in my light meter. I think my other problem
might have been that it rained today so reflected
light might be a reason the roads came out all
white. It seemed most shots were a full stop
overexposed some 2 stops. The actors looked
okay but the background was just bad.

Dissapointing [img]graemlins/wilted.gif[/img]