one more thing: the WI had literally NO effect on the a/f.
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one more thing: the WI had literally NO effect on the a/f.
cotay-
That was extremely helpful. So, not to oversimplify, but it sounds like the HP gain was probably due simply to the ability to reduce the heat from the extra boost. I keep thinking whether I want to add a stepper (I already have the JR crank pulley) as well since I'm running 440s, a PMS unit and water injection. Sounds like it is possible with the right tuning, and your results are great. My block and compression are stock though.
I had similar results to you without your second bump in boost, with about 221 HP, and TQ about 155-165 and A/F about 12.2-12.4 across the entire RPM range.
Seems to be an amazing amount of advance timing even with the lower compression, but I'm no expert. My PMS usually shows advance under boost at around 15-16 degrees. I have it set to retard 4 degrees from stock above 4,000 RPM.
speedy -
I would suggest you contact dynotuner.net when and if you're interested in the PMS unit. The unit list price is $799 and you'll need a GM map sensor, around $80. If you want Interacq it's $299 assuming you have a laptop it will work with and don't have to buy that also. I don't think you'll find anyone selling for any less than list.
CPA:
Just to clarify, this wasnt my car, but a good friend of mine who I helped build and tune this motor from the start.
As far as my own car goes, i was so amazed with the drivability of the jrsc and hondata, I've parted out my 211 whp N/A ls/vtec and invested in a JRSC and all the goodies. We're installing it next week.
One more thing. If you are using the factory p72 ecu, you stock timing at 0 mm/hg is around 28 deg total after 6000 rpm. So with 4 less deg, your advance should be about 24 deg.
I cannot wait to see the dyno results AFTER the shortblock rebuild...
Timing advance under full boost should also change by load condition. This is what I see when going to full boost from freeway cruise in say 4th gear. I haven't tried to see what it does from startup rowing through gears.
Can someone please tell me if the water/alcohol mix in the water injection will turn the plugs white?
Or is that detonation?
White tips would be a sign of a lean condition. White spots would be indicative of detonation. Also be aware that I've mistaken my plugs for white while outside, but once I got them inside under a lamp they were more of a sandy color which is what you want to have.
So, is it safe to say that it's better to go with the H2O injection kit or N2O for cooling or the other way around?? I know that with the cooling there WILL be a small increase of power. Any comments/opinions on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! [img]graemlins/thumbs_up.gif[/img]
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor=""><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Moad'Ib:
So, is it safe to say that it's better to go with the H2O injection kit or N2O for cooling or the other way around?? I know that with the cooling there WILL be a small increase of power. Any comments/opinions on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! [img]graemlins/thumbs_up.gif[/img] </font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>
H2O injection will allow you to run more advanced timing, may add some power due to that and the cooler outlet temps of the blower.
N2O on the other hand, you'll still want reduced timing, but you'll more than make up for it because the N2O is a lot colder than water + ice, and you're adding more oxygen to the cylinders to burn. A 25 shot through the blower would be like running close to a 50 shot without the blower as far as power gained. A good dyno tune is in order for this setup!
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor=""><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by exciv2000:
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor=""><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by Moad'Ib:
[qb]So, is it safe to say that it's better to go with the H2O injection kit or N2O for cooling or the other way around?? I know that with the cooling there WILL be a small increase of power. Any comments/opinions on this would be greatly appreciated. Thanks! [img]graemlins/thumbs_up.gif[/img] </font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>
H2O injection will allow you to run more advanced timing, may add some power due to that and the cooler outlet temps of the blower.
N2O on the other hand, you'll still want reduced timing, but you'll more than make up for it because the N2O is a lot colder than water + ice, and you're adding more oxygen to the cylinders to burn. A 25 shot through the blower would be like running close to a 50 shot without the blower as far as power gained. A good dyno tune is in order for this setup![/QB]</font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>
No doubt that we will be running either setup on the dyno to tune it to it's capacity. I was just wondering which one would be more effective and less harm to the engine. Some people are saying that the nos will ONLY increase the power more than the cooling effect. I know that it wont raise the boost level as others have mentioned. I am just looking to cool the thing down and not make a crazy amount of power when the NOS turns on to cool the charger. If the N20 wont put a sudden jolt on the engine then I'll go that route.... but if the water injection can closely rival the N20 then I might head that way instead since its less inexpensive in the long run.
Thanks for your comments. Please keep them coming.