In the market for a Cartech FMU...yes, I'm antique shoppin'!

[A-dub5513]

Man, although I still come here from time to time to search the archives, it's especially these times when I need to call on the ol' gang...it just makes me weepy!

Anyway, although I refused for many years the suggestion that there may be something wrong with my Cartech, I figure someone out there must have one in really good condition.

Problem is this:

I've got the Cartech, my 310's, and the AEM FPR. Static AEM is 35ish (can't get it lower, even with the largest orifice), Cartech is 38 static. My lowest achievable idle pressure is @ about 30.

Question is, when I'm idling, enginge warmed, if I throttle the engine and let off, the A/F lights go from 'lean to green'. Thing is, sometimes it stays there @ rich for 8, 10 secs before dropping!

Now is this normal? Is it the FPR (which I doubt, only because it's the newest part) or the FMU? And you know how those really old Cartechs, the homemade lookin' ones, used to stick! Or is the 310's simply too much during idle operation?

Since I first installed my cartech, I've supposedly had it rebuilt several times. Now, I say 'supposedly' because that's what the tuners said they'd done after 'dyno-tuning' and my car still ran hot and sloppy.

Anyways, as it was in the past, any answers, theories, or just shout-outs are welcomed and appreciated.

A-dub

*Really, who's usin' all these piggy-backs anymore?! Guess I'm just nostalgic like that.

[Hybrid EG]

There's a guy selling a new Cartech on Honda-Tech..

http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1720327&page=1

But seriously.. Perhaps it's a good time to consider a OBD2-OBD1 conversion harness and some soldering with a OBD1 ECU.

Tuning is a lot easier with ECU, especially if you are looking to increase boost later on.

Hope this helps!


Derek