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October 2nd, 2000, 10:18 PM
#11
Inactive Member
I don't understand this.
Theoretically, if you were at 16 BTDC with the BTC set at 1.0 deg/lb boost, then you're running 10 deg at WOT right (assuming 6psi)? Therefore, there should be no difference than if you were running 10 deg BTDC without the BTC right? (except for those split seconds when not at 6psi)
So how can horsepower & torque levels drop?
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1995 Integra GSR
JR Supercharger (6 psi), HO fuel pump, RS*R Header, Apexi WS cat-back exhaust, Iceman Intake, Neuspeed Front Tower Bar, Type-R Rear Swaybar, Short Shifter, ST 1.3" drop springs
AND NO STICKER'S ANYWHERE!!!!
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October 2nd, 2000, 10:25 PM
#12
Inactive Member
If I set my timing to 14 with retard at .8, wouldn't that result in less timing at all boost pressures, albeit more so at the low end than the top? (i.e. 1 PSI is 14-0.8 = 13.2 vs 16-1 = 15, and at 6 PSI 14-4.8 = 9.2 vs 16-6 = 10)
Is there some other factor coming into play?
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October 2nd, 2000, 10:37 PM
#13
Inactive Member
How much time elapsed between runs? Did you let the motor fully cool down?
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October 2nd, 2000, 10:48 PM
#14
Inactive Member
The time between pre and post BTC runs was 6 months. It heated up and cooled down a lot! As far as between runs adjusting the BTC, it was only a few minutes between each, increasing the timing by adjusting from 1.2 to 1.0 to 0.8.
That's why I think in the real world, it's probably a break-even. Back to back dyno runs could have slight variances without changing anything.
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October 3rd, 2000, 01:06 AM
#15
Inactive Member
I'm just saying try different approaches. The BTC for real world driving should make the car much more responsive. On a dyno it's hard to know, but I'd like to see the torque curves.
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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/
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October 3rd, 2000, 01:16 AM
#16
Inactive Member
I'll get the graphs up as soon as I can. The car still feels better driving on the street, I just found the dyno results odd since they didn't match up to the feel and so closely matched my previous runs. I don't doubt them, and I guess I'll have to tinker a bit to see what happens.
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October 3rd, 2000, 02:23 AM
#17
Inactive Member
I'm sorry but I bursted out in laughter when I read most of this thread. Take the f'ing car to the track and THEN figure out how well it benefitted you. Better dyno power doesn't mean better performance on the street/strip. I think this is probably true when the power difference is this close. I'm not saying it IS better but I think you should give it a try. My 6BTM and J&S probably hurt optimum power but it helped with the safety (when they were on at least :P).
-Sil
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October 3rd, 2000, 04:24 AM
#18
Inactive Member
Oh, try to compare ur current dyno sheet to the older one at other rpm range.
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October 3rd, 2000, 04:26 AM
#19
Inactive Member
Thanks for the input all. I'm trying to work with this stuff like everyone else, and I see a lot of threads about every other topic (headers, exhausts, etc.) about what does and doesn't work and everyone also asks who has the "real data" to prove it. Since this is a new product and a lot of people seemed to have questions and/or are installing them, I thought others (besides myself anyways) might be interested in one real world, real data experience on one car. I think I've learned a lot from others on the board and their results. Obviously, everybody's results will vary, and if I'm the anomaly, that's good news for everyone else, and I'll keep plugging away.
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October 3rd, 2000, 03:46 PM
#20
Inactive Member
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