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Thread: JR BTC Dyno Results and Impressions

  1. #11
    Inactive Member AvanishV's Avatar
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    I don't understand this.

    Theoretically, if you were at 16 BTDC with the BTC set at 1.0 deg/lb boost, then you're running 10 deg at WOT right (assuming 6psi)? Therefore, there should be no difference than if you were running 10 deg BTDC without the BTC right? (except for those split seconds when not at 6psi)

    So how can horsepower & torque levels drop?

    ------------------
    1995 Integra GSR
    JR Supercharger (6 psi), HO fuel pump, RS*R Header, Apexi WS cat-back exhaust, Iceman Intake, Neuspeed Front Tower Bar, Type-R Rear Swaybar, Short Shifter, ST 1.3" drop springs

    AND NO STICKER'S ANYWHERE!!!!

  2. #12
    Inactive Member cpa's Avatar
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    If I set my timing to 14 with retard at .8, wouldn't that result in less timing at all boost pressures, albeit more so at the low end than the top? (i.e. 1 PSI is 14-0.8 = 13.2 vs 16-1 = 15, and at 6 PSI 14-4.8 = 9.2 vs 16-6 = 10)

    Is there some other factor coming into play?

  3. #13
    Inactive Member BlownSOL's Avatar
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    How much time elapsed between runs? Did you let the motor fully cool down?

  4. #14
    Inactive Member cpa's Avatar
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    The time between pre and post BTC runs was 6 months. It heated up and cooled down a lot! As far as between runs adjusting the BTC, it was only a few minutes between each, increasing the timing by adjusting from 1.2 to 1.0 to 0.8.

    That's why I think in the real world, it's probably a break-even. Back to back dyno runs could have slight variances without changing anything.

  5. #15
    Inactive Member lundgren's Avatar
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    I'm just saying try different approaches. The BTC for real world driving should make the car much more responsive. On a dyno it's hard to know, but I'd like to see the torque curves.

    ------------------
    http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
    http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
    http://www.groupbuycenter.com/

  6. #16
    Inactive Member cpa's Avatar
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    I'll get the graphs up as soon as I can. The car still feels better driving on the street, I just found the dyno results odd since they didn't match up to the feel and so closely matched my previous runs. I don't doubt them, and I guess I'll have to tinker a bit to see what happens.

  7. #17
    Inactive Member BurntGSR's Avatar
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    I'm sorry but I bursted out in laughter when I read most of this thread. Take the f'ing car to the track and THEN figure out how well it benefitted you. Better dyno power doesn't mean better performance on the street/strip. I think this is probably true when the power difference is this close. I'm not saying it IS better but I think you should give it a try. My 6BTM and J&S probably hurt optimum power but it helped with the safety (when they were on at least :P).

    -Sil

  8. #18
    Inactive Member HondaCivicEx98's Avatar
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    Oh, try to compare ur current dyno sheet to the older one at other rpm range.

  9. #19
    Inactive Member cpa's Avatar
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    Thanks for the input all. I'm trying to work with this stuff like everyone else, and I see a lot of threads about every other topic (headers, exhausts, etc.) about what does and doesn't work and everyone also asks who has the "real data" to prove it. Since this is a new product and a lot of people seemed to have questions and/or are installing them, I thought others (besides myself anyways) might be interested in one real world, real data experience on one car. I think I've learned a lot from others on the board and their results. Obviously, everybody's results will vary, and if I'm the anomaly, that's good news for everyone else, and I'll keep plugging away.

  10. #20
    Inactive Member fastfour's Avatar
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    I agree with Silvino. I think many times people get all caught up in dyno numbers. Hell, when I saw mine with a peak power of 144 to the wheels I was heartbroken. I learned the reason it was so low (extremely rich) and fixed the problem. While I haven't been back to the dyno since tuning out a little fuel, I have knocked .5 sec off my 1/4 mile time eek In the grand scheme of things, .5 sec off the 1/4 is huge when considering all I needed to do was turn a screw a couple of times.

    It all comes down to how it feels on the street as your car is not a full on race car. To hell with dyno numbers. Look at it this way: If you had as much power as you could want out of your car (dyno) and the nubmers were awesome and high and everything else, would it matter if the car drove like ass? Hell yeah it would. I would rather sacrfice a little power on the dyno for streetability any day of the week.

    Sorry for the rant, but I just don't want you to get hung up on the numbers alone. Keep your chin up and drive it like you stole it smile

    ------------------
    94 Civic Coupe/LS Hybrid
    JRSC@6psi
    AEM CAI
    DC 4-1 Ceramic Header
    Test Pipe
    GReddy PE exhaust
    Magnacore 8.5mm Wires
    MSD 6A
    Skunkworks Coilovers
    ACT 6 Puck
    Turbo Convert

    [This message has been edited by fastfour (edited October 03, 2000).]

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