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February 8th, 2002, 02:00 AM
#11
Inactive Member
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by darolh:
Nobody has mentioned it but you should check the rear toe also after lowering and adjusting the camber.
The Helm manual has the factory settings listed for camber, toe, etc.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
yeah, the helm's manual has factory settings, but if your car is lowered they won't do any good.
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-Ben L.
1989 Civic Si w/ B16
1990 300ZX TT Stage III
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February 8th, 2002, 02:30 AM
#12
Inactive Member
So it would be a good idea to have a rear alignment done after i add a washer or two ?
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February 8th, 2002, 06:34 AM
#13
Inactive Member
I always get an alignment every time I do suspension mods, just to keep the geometry right. Currently I'm getting a custom front camber kit made up - unfortunately the EG kit doesn't suit the SiR and I don't want to drop coil-overs in until I've got adjustability done as well. At the same time I'm getting adjustable caster setup as well. I posted a good article on track/street configs a while ago - if you want I'll repost it.
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'90 JDM EF9 SiR
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February 8th, 2002, 06:04 PM
#14
Inactive Member
The act of lowering the car is what will change the static toe. This needs to then be corrected. The time to do it is after setting the camber as that changes it slightly.
The stock alignment numbers are a great place to start. You can then tweak them for your application (poseur street, performance street, autocross, road race, etc).
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