D16Z6 Upgrade

[NC_Rex]

Well having measured the requirements for the upper hose:
37 OD
29 ID

I went searching again, looks like this time the best fitting one I could locate off this goliathe wall of hoses belonged to:

an 89 Geo Spectrum 1.5L Turbo, Lower Radiator Hose

...your only going to need a section of the hose...and before you buy this, I am going tonight and verifying it has enough length...it looked a wee bit short on one side, but I have to make for certain. Just picked up the hose a few minutes ago.

I also looked at the other Geo Lower Radiator Hoses - they are all the same number for the most part, and therefore I feel that this hose would probably also work. I am going to have to take mine to the junkyard to make certain here in a little while.

[NC_Rex]

arggghhhh...friggen Honda D-series hoses...still about 2mm off?? Hose goes on - but it slides on and off, no tightness to it.

I did however pull a 92 Civic D15Z1 lower hose, which is the same as the D16Z6 lower hose, and hopefully it works - looks like it should. Will see later.

[Turbobaja]

Secrets of the D16Z6 swap revealed:

The upper radiator hose:

You can use the crx's lower radiator hose and by using the section measured from where the hose used to attach to the lower radiator neck end to however long it is from the upper neck on the radiator to the head. For me the end that used to connect to the lower radiator neck is put on the upper radiator neck the other end to the head. It is a tight fit but it worked for me. I suggest buying new lower radiator hose and replace the old hose since it will be easier now to replace it and cut your old hose to make sure it works for you as an upper radiator hose. Then you can get a new hose later and cut it the same way.

The Distributor:

This is how I was able to line up the marks on the crank with the ignition timing light to get the 18 degrees advanced from TDC. Thanks to NC_REX for his advice.

First dont bolt the distributor and have someone carefully rotate it with the motor running and have someone man the timing light to find where you need to mount it. Be sure to hold the distributor firm against the head.

This is how mine ended up.

The orientation is if you were looking at the front of the distributor cap with the head behind the distributor. As if on the passenger side looking toward the drivers side of the car.

I found that the top mount will have the bolt go thru it and go into the head. I had to modify the slot by shaving some metal on
the "roof" of the slot.

The right mount just misses the mounting hole completely so the bolt will go in and you can use the stock washer, but I recommend a thicker wider washer, and that will hold it in place.

The left mount covers up the mounting hole by a 1/8 of an inch or so, so I had to shave some of the metal off the right side of the mount to get the bolt to thread into the head. Again you will have to use a big washer to secure it down. But the stock washer will do temporarly.

Of course if you wanted to change the timing without the use of a tunable ignition system like a msd unit then you would have to modify the distributor mounts accordingly since the timing will be set.

I recommend shaving a little at a time and check its progress on the head to make sure you dont go too far.

Another tidbit of information:

The CRX's fuel injector connector's plastic housing interferes with the fuel pressure regulator on the d16z6 fuel rail. You will need to get the plastic housing from the d16z6 wiring harness and "make" your crx connectors wiring fit into it so it will bolt on with no problems. I didnt have any problems except with the stubborn 10 year old shape of the wiring and making it conform to a new shape.

Other than that its pretty straight forward. I noticed that you can use the CRX's lower radiator hose but its a tight fit since the thermostat housing on the d16z6 is angled higher.

Right now I'm breaking in my new act clutch but after 500 miles I'll see about the vtec and go from there. I plan to use an rpm activated switch with my stock ecu until I can go with the zdyne b16a one wire ecu conversion.

This swap is on a 91 crx si using the d16z6 engine, and intake manifold/ throttle body. Also using the stock crx ecu and crx alternator, crank pully, tranny, distributor, and a/c compressor.

These are my results and they may vary between differnent makes and models. I am providing this information so everyone else can get a good idea of what is going on, but be prepared to improvise if needed. I'll check back so if you have any questions.

Disclaimer : I worked 9 hours straight getting my car togather so I might have mispellings all over the place or some information might be confusing or I didnt provide enough info on something. I'll check it later after I get some sleep. Hope this helps. Later


Ryan

------------------
Fantastic

[NC_Rex]

Wear that clutch in man, just drive for a day straight in and out of downtown... I gotta hear how everything works out.

I've never gotten the opportunity to go any further then the radiator hose because of other issues with people not paying for parts they bought from me - very delingquent - so when I do, soon, I'll be able to continue.

I just Thursday purchased $80 in Battery connectors and CB breaker and fusing stuff.

I still need the Moroso remote container setup. And I have the optima battery selected.

Then I have a couple of Gaskets to order for the Z6 head, but I am going to try and run it beforehand.

I am missing also my front sway bar links? No idea where they walked off too...but that's what happens when a car full of parts is sitting around for months on end you know.

Should be not too long from now. Car will be running. Then it will be the issue of having plates, tags and titlework with insurance done on it...money and more money.

Tell us how it goes Ryan.

[NC_Rex]

<A HREF="http://www.optimabatteries.com/main.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.optimabatteries.com/main.htm
</A> http://www.moroso.com/catalog

I got a lot of money from parts sold today. So here soon the CRX should be running

Moroso Battery Box on Order. $120 with tax from a local V-8 place..hate that place with a passion! I got this box, despite the high price, because it's propylene or something, type of plastic that does not break easily. Also it's required for NIRA competition rules that have a completely sealed, mountable, and ventilated battery box for competition. And maybe someday I'll have a car that could compete or at least take to the track!

I have chosen to go with the Yellow-Top Deep Cycle Optima Battery for the simple fact that I may be having the alternator disconnected when I'm making passes at the strip, and it would really beat up the Red-Top Optima Battery...just 5lbs heavier. Also a possible loping or stumbling cam (idle)...if I come to this, might not allow the alternator to charge at stoplights...so it's more of an insurance deal to get the Yellow Top...still need to talk to a tech at this alternator rebuild shop for his opinion.


Here's specs on Optima Batteries, our Civic Power Requirements and Moroso Box:

>> Redtops <<
...Starting



34/78-1050

CCA (BCI 0?F): 750 amps
MCA (BCI 32?F): 980 amps
Capacity: 50 Ah (C/20)
Reserve Capacity: BCI:104 minutes
L 10
W 6.8
H 7.8
Weight: 38.8

75/35-925

CCA (BCI 0?F): 650 amps
MCA (BCI 32?F): 870 amps
Capacity: 44 Ah (C/20)
Reserve Capacity: BCI:90 minutes
L 9.4
W 6.8
H 7.6
Weight: 31.1


>> Yellowtops <<
...Deep Cycle



D34/78-950

CCA (BCI 0o F): 550 amps
MCA (BCI 32 o F): 870 amps
Capacity: 55 Ah (C/20)
Reserve Capacity: BCI: 120 minutes
L 10
W 6.8
H 7.8
Weight: 43.8

D34-950

CCA (BCI 0?F): 550 amps
MCA (BCI 32?F): 870 amps
Capacity: 55 Ah (C/20)
Reserve Capacity: BCI: 120 minutes
L 10
W 6.8
H 7.8
Weight: 42.9

Recommended Cold Cranking Amps for this vehicle - 405

------------------------------------------

Moroso Battery Box



10-1/2" deep, 13" wide, 9-1/2" tall

L 13
H 10.5
W 9.5

------------------------------------------


[This message has been edited by NC_Rex (edited May 23, 2001).]

[NC_Rex]

Moroso Box Dimensions update from tech support:

L Outside 13, Inside 10.5
H Outside 10.5, Inside 10
W Outside 9.5, Inside 8.75

Typical Optima Dimensions:

L 10
H 7.8
W 6.8

...phewww! It's gonna fit, good deal!

[This message has been edited by NC_Rex (edited May 23, 2001).]

[NC_Rex]

Most recent additions up till last week.

I received my Moroso Battery Box...the thing's friggen huge! $110 for a plastic box - ouch! But it is made very well at least. However I don't agree with the grommets they supplied me with in this kit...they suck - don't even seal fully around the tubes...1/16 inch gap. I am getting some Autozone grommets if needed in the future.

Still saving up for Optima Battery.

I talked to Hondata about their low-temp Intake manifold gasket material. Doug Newman said he could get me a sheet of the material for $70.00 - enough for 3 gaskets to be made. That will be cool enough.

I also pickup up my D16Z6 intake manifold gasket - new, and Throttle Body Gasket. They don't make TPS gaskets form Honda - you have to buy the whole throttle body!!! So I went searching and found the exact same friggen gasket material...well the same TPS gasket material at a local V-8 specific performance shop for $3.00 bucks - a huge roll too! I am going to start making gaskets and probably end up selling them for $5.00 a piece mailed in an envelope.

Picked up also my LCA balljoint Boots and Axle-end Nuts. FRIGGEN $13.00 a boot! Honda thought it was $3.00 each, so they gave me them for $10.00 a peice. I am going here soon to a parts store to find replacements for $3.00 as they are supposed to be and return those others to Honda. W/T/F!

I mated up those hose to the radiator. Still don't like the way it bends. I need to find something a bit better. I may use another D-series engine hose and try...mine was cut a bit short from the junkyard as someone stole the radiator out of the car before I got to it. But it works for the meantime, I just don't want the hose to be constricted from the narrowing at the bend (actually somewhat slight but I am not comfortable with it).

The Zdyne ECU will be a go after I pay off the credit card...or a good chunk of it from the B16A2 engine. With this I will be able to do all kinds of mods and engines. I will no longer need a specific ECU for any engine swap. That means if I wanted to drop the B16A or B18C...all I would need is the exhuast manifold with our year-model O2 sensors, and the engine wiring to be changed around for sensor relocation. And that's it.

Since I have a B18C, the higher compression engine, my next goal is to have this transplanted into the CRX. However I will be using a Place Racing kit for this...I have found there kit will not interfere with the frame rails for the Hydro Transaxle. Place Racing is also coming out here in the next month with a Cable-to-Hydro adapter so we can use these newer transaxles. I would say to anyone that is going to drop in a 1.8 liter engine B18C or B18A/B...to have the B18C transaxle used on this swap. The gearing is amazing....and their are double-come synchro's on the 2-3 gear sets. These transaxles hardly wear, unlike all the B16A transaxles Honda has produced.

As far as Really cool thing I have found out:

To run Equal length axles on an 88-91 Civic/CRX, simply goto a Junkyard and get ahold of a driver's axle from an 88-91 Civic Wagon AWD Manual. It has to be a manual...automatic's are wrong size. And it has to be AWD...none of the other Wagons have this equal-length axle. It comes with an intermediate too as part of the axle. Only the D16A6 engine can accept this intermediate, as the D16Z6 and D16Y8 both don't have readily available mounting.....however - their appears to be positions in the block built up as if the holes just weren't drilled and tapped for the bolts! I talked to a kid that did this - and he somehow managed to drill entirely through the block (idiot). I think these holes are deep enough...but I can't be for certain. However I did not see them on the D16Y8 block.

The Zdyne ECU, I recently found out, has support for using a Palm Pilot to read sensor outputs from the Gold ECU they sell. I inquired Zdyne but they have yet to return my message. Also I have asked to have a downloaded version of their PDF format of instructions and manual for the Gold ECU so I could further evaluate it.

[NC_Rex]

Most Most Recent Additions

None! Bought a pickup this week, so no money for Optima Battery.

Also I am two weeks out form buying an insulator gasket from Hondata as they also have them ready for sale.

I put together a huge shelving unit - 2x4's custom. 6.5 wide, 3 deep, 7.5 tall! Huge. The bottom is brace for engines. Just need the plywood sheets for the shelving. Unit will house 3 each engines on bottom. And beleive me I have Six engines already, and a 7th one coming when I get to it (going nowhere). D16Z6, D16Y8, D16A6, and the others.

Also been busy reviewing costs for a SOHC VTEC prebuilt Harness setup - like a small side business of building "prebuilt" harnesses for anyone intersted this Fall. No cores required for a harness, no exchange (however there will be a buyback if you have one avail). No D16Z6 or D16Y8 harness or injector connectors or Resistors required. Just send money and get in mail after the order clears.

[NC_Rex]

Dusted off CRX yesterday...shit!

The money for the Zdyne ECU will end up making payments on the S10 I bought for the first 5 months. Oh well! I still have the VTEC controller and Si ECU.

I am also putting money into the Shelving units I've been building. Have been running me almost $120 a build! These things are enormous! Books for school to have set me back.

CRX will sit there probably till fall....however still waiting on Optima Battery. That's about it. Once I get it...Varrooom! I'll have to strap on plates and tow it with the pickup down to some back country road and just run it for a few minutes to see what the Air-Fuel looks like with the Si ECU and where to set the VTEC. Shit, I could do it now - but that battery will outgass like a Mofo...and that's just because it will deepcharge from not having been used in a 3 or so months. Best to wait for the Optima.

Backburner for about at least 3 more weeks.

Everything though as far as the swap is in the above.

[NC_Rex]

Bringing this post back up front for a guy to see...got burried.

This engine may be yanked if anyone's reading my post on selling car. I have my Wife's CRX - it's an auto...and I have a spare DX tranny...so I'll probably end up combining these converting to manual and running this on a DX to Si conversion.