Headlight Condensation

[reewinder]

Hey Geo.
I found a set of headlights like the ones you have...made by Sonar...but with the black bezel around the outside. I installed them but noticed after the first night they get a little condensation build up inside. Do yours have the same problem?
I'm wondering if I should use silicone all the way around it or is that just pointless?
I also got that header in that night I called you but that is an entire post in itself (imagine everything that could've gone wrong) I learned the difference between El cheap-o tools and quality tools....jack wouldn't go high enough and jack stands were too tall....didn't have deep well sockets....made 5 trips to the store and back for various tools/jacks/jackstands....then rounded off the O2 sensor making it impossible to remove so one more trip to the parts store. Ended up taking about 11 hours to do [img]eek.gif[/img]

I learned a lot from doing it myself though and am happy with the results. Next project is the trunk release wich I got last Saturday out of a 92 Prelude.
I'll try and get some pics of the headlights and header posted.

<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ February 15, 2007 06:18 AM: Message edited by: reewinder ]</font>

[Geo VP]

No I haven't so far, they've been in for a year now I believe, the only ones I have problems with is the corners, they mist up every once in a while, and I use a hairdryer to clear it up.
Sorry you had so much trouble on the install of the header, and yes the right tools help a lot when doing it.
On the trunk release, make sure you have a drill available as the one hole will not line up (the back one). You have two choices as how to mount it, one build a bracket to attach it at the back, the other is to drill a new hole and tap it for the mounting bolt. On the cable you will have to loop it behind the side panel as it wil be to long to work as is, also the bolts holding my latch on was a real bummer to remove (my hands are to big to get in there to attach to cable to it), had to use one of those impact tools to get the bolts out with, then everything was fine on the rest of the install for it.

Geo
President
Team Sol of Washington

[reewinder]

Ya...I read the how-to section on that and am probably going to make a bracket rather than drilling a new hole.
Any suggestions on spark plug wires? I was just gonna go to a parts store and get whatever....but if there is any particular brand that might be better than the rest I might spring for more $$$. But only if it's really worth it.

[Geo VP]

Stock NGK's or if you want a little something more go for the NGK Power Cables (good for +3.3 hp over stock NGK's and I got the dyno results to prove/back it up too), are blue in color.

As for some other brands available (with gains over stock NGK wires):

Accel: +2.4 hp
Magnecor: +1.4 hp
Moroso: +2.1 hp
MSD: +4.4 hp
Vitek: -1.3 hp (yes these give a power loss)

That give you some numbers and choices?

Geo
President
Team Sol of Washington

[reewinder]

Thanks for that info....
I can't believe some would rob the horsepower [img]graemlins/thumbs_down.gif[/img]

I'll definately look into those. Would adding an external coil see any HP gains as well? I see lots of stuff out there that claims to boost HP like those grounding cables and stuff.

[Geo VP]

As for grounding cables, I've seen the claims too, but don't put to much into them. All I've seen with mine was brighter headlights lights, and with one or two hp you don't really "feel" that much anyway, but if it gives me a little extra gas milage, that's all good.

By the way, when they tested air clearners, a "fresh" stock paper air cleaner beat them all for flow, hands down.

Geo
President
Team Sol of Washington

[reewinder]

Got that trunk release put in this afternoon. I did have a couple fitment issues with the cable but nothing I couldn't fix.
The holes to mount the new one actually lined up perfect with the old ones. I didn't have to drill or modify anything. Only problem I had was with the cable itself so I just might buy the Del Sol part. It works but the notches in the cable that pop in and keep it from moving around didn't want to quite line up with where they should have been...so I got it working on the trunk end but had to kinda make it fit right at the lever end with good ol' hammer power. [img]tongue.gif[/img]
I think I gotta go back in and mess with that wire that connects to the unlocking mechanism. Even when the trunk is locked and closed all the way the "trunk open" light on the dash lights up. After a few hours the light did turn off but something must be bad in there to set it off.

[Geo VP]

The plug connecting the wires is probably loose at the trunk latch, check it as you were messing around with the latch when attaching the cable. Or the sensor got moved during it would be my guess.

Geo
President
Team Sol of Washington



<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ February 18, 2007 12:40 PM: Message edited by: Geo 94 ]</font>

[reewinder]

That just jogged my memory. I had to undo the little plastic clip that holds the wire to the back of the trunk so I could pull the latch out further. When I put it all back together I'm pretty sure that wire was left dangling. The light on the dash still comes on every so often but I check and it isn't popped open.

Hopefully I'll get some pics of the new stuff up by tonight.