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Thread: "Crossover Design for New Project"

  1. #61
    Inactive Member bfish's Avatar
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    Re: "Crossover Design for New Project"

    Quote Originally Posted by bfish View Post
    Lacking a comparable...
    OK, the 9845 (dual horizontal 416s, 500Hz) DI plot throws a wrench in the works;

    http://alteclansingunofficial.nlenet...rs/TL_201A.pdf

    (skip to PDF page 18)
    "[I]We're going all the way, till the wheels fall off and burn[/I]!"
    Bob Dylan, from [I]Brownsville Girl[/I]

    [I]"Time wounds all heels"[/I]
    John Lennon, referring to the Nixon/Hoover deportation fiasco.

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    Senior Hostboard Member Panomaniac's Avatar
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    Re: "Crossover Design for New Project"

    Agreed. Not an easy build, but should be a great corner set-up.
    As you know I'm a fan of the Onken box, which was derived from the Jensen Ultraflex.

    From the Altec plots I see the 511 averaging about 75 deg. horizontal toward the bottom end. A single woofer or 2 stacked should be close to that in the 500-700Hz range, right? Of course it will widen out to 360 at some point, unless it's in a corner.

  3. #63
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    "Crossover Design for New Project"


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    Re: "Crossover Design for New Project"

    [QUOTE=bfish;1830088]Not the easiest build, but I'm thinking modified corner Ultraflex cabs (roughly like these);

    18

    ...stacked as MTMs


    Brad you hit the nail on the head that is roughly the shape I'm loooking for. Here's a quick little drawing I did free hand not very professional looking but wasn't meant to be, I did just to give GM an Idea of what shape I was looking for.I really,really don't want to get into ducts and things I would like to stick with a ported box.This is my first complete build from scratch so would like to keep it simple enough to complete in a short period of time. :thankU: Again for your help !! John

  4. #64
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    "Crossover Design for New Project"


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    Re: "Crossover Design for New Project"

    Here's a rough idea on what cabinet I would like to have.A ported bass bin box.With each box about 7-8 cu. ft. stacked or 1 box with separation in the middle.Would this design work with the sled on top and the T350 in the top of cabinet.I need to decide on the LF cabinet so I can get started designing the Crossovers for this project.Any thoughts guys.Thank You in advance for any more help or suggestions. Regards ~ John

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    Senior Hostboard Member valhallax's Avatar
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    Re: "Crossover Design for New Project"

    hey AB..
    looking at your drawing, i think that corner loading would greatly benefit from the rear vents, like in the jensen cab... using your corner walls as part of the system. of course timing the front and back waves is important. as far as crossovers go..go active . im using ashly gear, a stereo 4-way with adjustable sloping. i like it for the simple fact that i can cut out of my subs as low as 40 hz.
    "those sounds to which no definite pitch can be assigned are usually classified as noise"<br />harvey fletcher-1928

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    Senior Hostboard Member Steve Mac's Avatar
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    Re: "Crossover Design for New Project"

    Quote Originally Posted by Altec Best View Post
    Would this design work with the sled on top and the T350 in the top of cabinet.I need to decide on the LF cabinet so I can get started designing the Crossovers for this project.Any thoughts guys.Thank You in advance for any more help or suggestions. Regards ~ John
    I myself would not put a tweeter below a mid range horn...unless quite far away...it would be more unnatural to me. Think what a voice coming out the horn and the ride cymbal coming out of the tweeter below it would sound like! :O ...just my 2 cents

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    Senior Hostboard Member SOOTSHE's Avatar
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    Re: "Crossover Design for New Project"

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Mac View Post
    I myself would not put a tweeter below a mid range horn...unless quite far away...it would be more unnatural to me. Think what a voice coming out the horn and the ride cymbal coming out of the tweeter below it would sound like! :O ...just my 2 cents
    Yes, I agree.

    When I was setting up my La Scalas I tried it with the tweeter on the side of the horn & somehow it just didn't sound right. Eventually I put it on top of the horn & the balance just seemed better.

    I can tell you it's is a pain to try to mount it there though & still have it look reasonable.

    I ended up enclosing the horn & making a small pedestal for the tweeter to sit on top.

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    Senior Hostboard Member LICORNE's Avatar
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    Re: "Crossover Design for New Project"

    It's important to play it by the book. With the new digital mixers with constant Q ,an audio engineer can send some vocals way up in the 1000 Hz range and( back up singers ) in the mid 500 Hz range which is totally unacceptable. That is why Mixing should be done on 604 Duplex to avoid these mistakes.Most professional studios have both Neve 88A > 24bit 192 khz recording and SSL with X Acto Knife EQ for mixing. More tools means more mistakes.

    Altec Big Red
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  9. #69
    Senior Hostboard Member Panomaniac's Avatar
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    Re: "Crossover Design for New Project"

    I dunno, my tweeters are below my mids and the highs seem alright. In fact they often sound like they are above the mids. (HRTF) Maybe it depends how far away you are?

    The idea of the side/back ports seems like a good one. Take advantage of that corner!

  10. #70
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    Re: "Crossover Design for New Project"

    Quote Originally Posted by valhallax View Post
    hey AB..
    looking at your drawing, i think that corner loading would greatly benefit from the rear vents, like in the jensen cab... using your corner walls as part of the system. of course timing the front and back waves is important. as far as crossovers go..go active . im using ashly gear, a stereo 4-way with adjustable sloping. i like it for the simple fact that i can cut out of my subs as low as 40 hz.
    I'm looking at them too.But I think the actives are for bi-amping since I'm not bi-amping I was just going to use passive.I would like to have an active crossover though anyway so It maybe something I pursue.

    Quote Originally Posted by Steve Mac View Post
    I myself would not put a tweeter below a mid range horn...unless quite far away...it would be more unnatural to me. Think what a voice coming out the horn and the ride cymbal coming out of the tweeter below it would sound like! :O ...just my 2 cents
    I wanted to put it above the 511 but as Jhenry had noted it will be an issue mounting and I just think it looks a lot cleaner to mount it in the cabinet it will only be a couple inches from the 511 and at 15 ft. away (listening distance)at that distance I think it will blend in but once I cut the baffle I'm stuck so the safe bet would be to mount above 511, case there is an issue.

    Quote Originally Posted by J Henry View Post
    I can tell you it's is a pain to try to mount it there though & still have it look reasonable.

    I ended up enclosing the horn & making a small pedestal for the tweeter to sit on top.
    That is why I want to mount inside of cabinet.Because it will be an issue to mount.That's what I want to try and avoid is making some makeshift contraption for the tweeter.Especially when those bass bins get going I don't need it rolling off the back of the cabinet

    Quote Originally Posted by Panomaniac View Post
    I dunno, my tweeters are below my mids and the highs seem alright. In fact they often sound like they are above the mids. (HRTF) Maybe it depends how far away you are?

    The idea of the side/back ports seems like a good one. Take advantage of that corner!
    The tweeter I had planned for the top bin.It would literally only be a few inches from the mouth of the 511 I thought it would be close enough to blend with the 511 and the woof's at 15+ feet.Well this is why I'm asking questions to find the best possible help in constructing a great sounding speaker.

    I just bought "How To Build Speaker Enclosures" by Alexis Badmaieff & Don Davis and I just started to read it.I hope this will keep me on the right track Thanks Guys !!!

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