GM-416-8B MLTL Corner Cabinet

[VolvoHeretic]

The 2" connector can be 2x2 log I assume.

The 2" vertical slats are full length and are to reinforce the weak panel miter joints and to stiffen the panels and are made with 3/4" plywood. I don't really know how deep they should be and I guess they could be 2x2's or 2x3's. I read somewhere that GM suggested all panel stiffening be vertical so as to not interfere with the ML-TL vertical sound column.

The top and bottom panels if made with just a single sheet of plywood should have a 1/4"x3/4" rabbet routed in so that the side panels have something to lean against. You could also make the base and cap out of two layers with the outer most being full dimension and the second being 3/4" smaller and that could be made out of mdf.

Once all of the components are locked in, I can calculate the net box area and I can probably come pretty close to the speakers net volume and we can move the baffle in and out to come up with the ultimate area and then height and volume.

How many decimals does GM what in these calculations.

[srivenkat]

The 2" vertical slats are full length and are to reinforce the weak panel miter joints and to stiffen the panels and are made with 3/4" plywood. I don't really know how deep they should be and I guess they could be 2x2's or 2x3's. I read somewhere that GM suggested all panel stiffening be vertical so as to not interfere with the ML-TL vertical sound column.

The top and bottom panels if made with just a single sheet of plywood should have a 1/4"x3/4" rabbet routed in so that the side panels have something to lean against. You could also make the base and cap out of two layers with the outer most being full dimension and the second being 3/4" smaller and that could be made out of mdf.

Once all of the components are locked in, I can calculate the net box area and I can probably come pretty close to the speakers net volume and we can move the baffle in and out to come up with the ultimate area and then height and volume.

How many decimals does GM what in these calculations.

VolvoHeretic,

This is great, sure. Initial dim provided by GM was for 24 cu. ft. volume. Thank you.

-Sri

[srivenkat]

The 2" vertical slats are full length and are to reinforce the weak panel miter joints and to stiffen the panels and are made with 3/4" plywood. I don't really know how deep they should be and I guess they could be 2x2's or 2x3's. I read somewhere that GM suggested all panel stiffening be vertical so as to not interfere with the ML-TL vertical sound column.

The top and bottom panels if made with just a single sheet of plywood should have a 1/4"x3/4" rabbet routed in so that the side panels have something to lean against. You could also make the base and cap out of two layers with the outer most being full dimension and the second being 3/4" smaller and that could be made out of mdf.

Once all of the components are locked in, I can calculate the net box area and I can probably come pretty close to the speakers net volume and we can move the baffle in and out to come up with the ultimate area and then height and volume.

How many decimals does GM what in these calculations.

Hi VolvoHeretic,

I was excited seeing the diagram so, this evening did a small try based on the concept ? though it looked doable it definitely requires some special woodworking skill (more than what I can, sorry to disappoint you). So, I am going to go to a carpenter to find out, ?m sure he can do but it will come down to the cost. So my best bet now is option 2 ?some form of tapered?. Even if I go with tapered, I will continue to see the possibility of curved one.

Thank you,
Sri

[jocelys1]

SriVenkat, where you based out of ?

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So, you want a half-round speaker???

Attachment 3212

Volvoheretic.....

[srivenkat]

SriVenkat, where you based out of ?

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Volvoheretic.....

Hi Jocelys1, I live in Columbus, Ohio. -Sri

[VolvoHeretic]

Sri, you only need three tools, a router, a table saw with a couple of roller stands, and a belt sander. AND you need to watch the PBS show with the bald guy from the routerworkshop.com.Any Journeyman carpenter who can install cabinets and trim should be able to help you and make sure you don't cut your fingers off.

Trial cut the angles with scrap wood on the table saw and then make your final cuts. I would glue up everything with PL400 construction adhesive and screws , let dry and belt sand every thing flush. Then veneer with your choice of wood. Everyone need a hobby that does not include work or chores and speaker building is as good as any.

[jocelys1]

If the slat design is hard to implement, is this an option. The 'shaded' part is solid wood, more like a set of braces, around which you can use good ply to curve the rear of the design.

Just a thought really.

[srivenkat]

Sri, you only need three tools, a router, a table saw with a couple of roller stands, and a belt sander. AND you need to watch the PBS show with the bald guy from the routerworkshop.com.Any Journeyman carpenter who can install cabinets and trim should be able to help you and make sure you don't cut your fingers off.

Trial cut the angles with scrap wood on the table saw and then make your final cuts. I would glue up everything with PL400 construction adhesive and screws , let dry and belt sand every thing flush. Then veneer with your choice of wood. Everyone need a hobby that does not include work or chores and speaker building is as good as any.

Thank you VolvoHeretic, PBS show videos are quite interesting. I love to learn these skills, will try my best. Thanks for your support, I do have a table saw (Ryobi) and orbit sander. -Sri

[VolvoHeretic]

If the slat design is hard to implement, is this an option. The 'shaded' part is solid wood, more like a set of braces, around which you can use good ply to curve the rear of the design.

Just a thought really.

You could glue up ribs from mitered straight 2x's and cut into a radius or cut the radius into 3/4" plywood and glue two together for each rib, and then use bending plywood and use as many thin plys (1/4", 3/8") as it takes to build up to 3/4" using wood glue applied with a notch trowel and cinch everything together with tie down straps. Sounds like more work though.

[VolvoHeretic]

Ok, so I get 4.9 sq. ft. area with wood bracing x 5' interior height = 24.5 cu. ft. I think I remember the 15" woofer quoted at 0.5 cu. ft. so about 24.0 cu. ft. interior volume.

I have revolved what I think is the 604B internal volume I created after tracing a really bad pdf diagram of the speaker, but this old version of AutoCAD I am using at home won't give me the volume, I will have to open this drawing in a newer version at work tomorrow to find out.