and don't forget the Edison home tour this year...
Sonic Barbarian
You might also contact Bob Crites and check with him about re-gaussing service in the southeast. He reportedly used to have an "in" at the EV factory in AR, and he may know of other options.
They're not a complex machine. It's really just a huge capacitor bank that fires a short burst of DC at very high current into an electro-magnet. What makes them expensive is building them robustly enough to consistently duty cycle at production speed. Seems like one of our driver repair gurus would have built their own by now.
Not all vegetables make good leaders.
I sent Bob and email and asked if he has any sources.
Man if I could build my own remag machine that would be awesome. I assume it has to be able to degauss and then regauss? I have a bunch of old transformers for tube amps and tube organs etc.
I bet it would be hard to find a schematic for the machine.
I thought GPA was at the old EV plant, so where are they?
$4-15 k + shipping I presume: Loud Speaker Magnet Charger - Buy Speaker Magnet Charger,Magnet Charger,Speaker Magnet Product on Alibaba.com
Re GPA re-cone [kits]; someone was apparently hawking a pair of Orange Co. re-cones as OEM:
Altec 515B- original cone vs. aftermarket - diyAudio
The GPA re-cone video was rather enlightening..........anyone care to comment?
GM
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Correct and why it has to be so powerful for AlNiCo and presume neo since anything less than a complete reversal will keep the magnet from getting a good charge, as in sometimes won't even return it to its dilapidated point. Ferrite [or at least what 'we' bought from Union Carbide] could often be 'perked up' without degaussing.
Magnet Charger
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
Wow that remag machine looks massive! A little more than I can build myself. Haha
About the recone video. He calls it a 416-16c in the beginning. Looks like a 416Z to me?
Also is it common to use rubber cement to glue down the spider and surround?
Also, the pics the Speaker Exchange has of the 604 recone kits show the VC/spider attached, and the cone separate. The cone assembly the guy had in the YouTube video has everything already preassembled.
Do the 416 kits come preassembled and 604 kits come as separate pieces?
Man with how easy he makes that looks I want to try it myself. Maybe I should practice on a regular woofer before I try to recone a duplex.
Last edited by Elitopus1; October 24th, 2019 at 04:42 PM.
It always looks easy ! The hard part of reconing a duplex is that it doesn't lay flat. Build a jig if you want. Otherwise pay the pro. Especially with Altecs, you get 4-5 shims and not a jig for the voice coil. Make sure one of your shims is placed where the voice coil former meets the split otherwise it will probably rub.
As much as i'm a DIY kinda guy there are some things that i leave without question to the experienced professionals.
With a driver like a 604 where you have such a large, heavy motor assembly supported by the basket, i think it's good practice to have the frame checked for alignment such that the front mounting rim remains parallel to the motor flange/front plate to within factory tolerance. It's probably a non-issue with our OP's drivers, as he isn't reporting any rubbing or other alignment issues. But, with other 604 adventures and known rubbing issues it should be given due consideration.
I suspect that many of the broken and missing rear covers we encounter on 604's get broken and go missing as a result of being the first jig used to support them during servicing.The hard part of reconing a duplex is that it doesn't lay flat. Build a jig if you want.
Not all vegetables make good leaders.
I spoke with GPA and it would be 145$ each to get the 604s reconed, and both the LF and HF remagged. So that seems like the best deal, even including shipping.
Bowtie is right about my speakers having no rub. I always do a sweep on speakers when I get them. I have had shipping damage before and I check every speaker as soon as I get it.
Me too.
Don't know about 'common', but is fine as long as it can handle the heat.
No clue, the only reconing I've 'done' were by sending them via the local distributor to the long gone Altec authorized East Coast reconing Service in Asheville, N.C. regardless of brand/model.
Regardless, in the beginning of modern times paper cones was the Word, so book binder's glue was the solution, i.e. dried clear and remained flexible, which is all me n' others I was aware of used way back when.
Still got my many decades old bottle of archival quality [slow drying/curing] PVA glue [great flow out] and nowadays mostly use Aleene's water based [thick] tacky glue for any paper/cloth repairs that don't get wet. Can be thinned with water for a less tacky, slower cure.
In short, any binder that remains flexible across a wide range of temperatures.
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
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