How bad is the water damage? You would be surprised what can be fixed. As far as value, repaired originals will be worth more than copies.
First post!
I've recently retired and now ready for this long standing project of re-building the cabs of my 19's. Years ago they suffered some water damage. I fixed them up as best I could but now is the time to give them a new life. I've been scanning the relevant posts here and there's a lot of interesting info.
Perhaps someone here who has done similar re-build could share with me the good and bad and the to do's and not to do's. I would be eternally grateful.
My intentions is to build new cabs out of Baltic birch (3/4. or 1" not sure) using GPA original design. I have enjoyed my 19's for years, hence the desire to keep it original. also I think it will be easier to sell down the line. (whenever that is!)
Any advice or opinions would be welcomed.
How bad is the water damage? You would be surprised what can be fixed. As far as value, repaired originals will be worth more than copies.
Your neighbors called. They like your music.
I did a pretty descent job fixing the cabs (IMHO) but not so good on the veneer work. I knew one day I would need to replace the cabs. Buying and shipping a set from the U.S is not an affordable option. So unless one drops in from heaven to my neighbourhood, a clone using BB would be the second best thing I think.Originally Posted by Old Guy
They won't be model Nineteens anymore. As much as engineering tries to avoid it, the material used has an effect on the sonic signature.My intentions is to build new cabs out of Baltic birch (3/4. or 1" not sure)
As soon as your build deviates from the original design it becomes a facsimile rather than a clone. If you feel a material change is an improvement to the design, by all means implement it. Just do not assume that the next model Nineteen enthusiast that comes along is going to use the same points of reference in his observations and assessments.
YMMV, but experience has taught me NOT to build to predictions of the future, but rather the most practical goals within the present time.also I think it will be easier to sell down the line. (whenever that is!)
While some enthusiasts are all about modifications and improvements, in the more general marketplace of collectors and vintage enthusiasts mods and improvements will more often serve to de-value a piece compared to bone stock originals simply by narrowing the field of interested parties in the marketplace.
OTOH, i understand that your factory cabinets are damaged, potentially beyond practical repair.
In a nutshell, my advice would be to base all of your building goals on what is going to please you most in the here and now as well as the immediate and foreseeable future.
Just my .02, some folks opinion will certainly vary.
Not all vegetables make good leaders.
+1. Long term with simple to build cabs that's been structurally damaged is to assume its collectible value is strictly from whatever the components will bring + maybe materials cost for the cabs and if you're happy with the muted sonic signature of thin veneer clad MDF, you may find the ~ cubic order of magnitude* increase in panel stiffness of 3/4", and especially 1", BB ply a bit too 'bright'/'sharp' for lack of a better description, forcing adding mass to dampen it and even then may not get it exact enough if comparing to your age deteriorated original.
* Panel stiffness [MOE spec] increases at the cube of thickness and factor in that the MOE average for 3/4" MDF is ~527 k psi Vs 19 mm BB ply's ~1.8 mil psi, it takes a 1.25" thick MDF panel to ~match it and a bit more if gluing together two panels, though not two 3/4" as some have done IIRC from dim memory.
GM
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents.
You're correct. The "here and now is first and salability should be a distant second. Thanks for the input
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