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Hi Gang,
Well, I've been dragging my feet for close to a year now, but I've decided to go ahead and restore my wall oven now, in the event that I do end up moving and don't have the same resources in another town that I have here in So Cal.
I tore my oven all apart today. Compared to restoring my Model B stove, this one will be a cake-walk. The only problem I may have is that I want to, if possible, replace what the manual calls "the baking element" (which is what heats the oven), and the ceramic socket that it plugs into. Here is the bake element:
http://www.chambersvirtualconvention...akeElement.jpg
Here is the ceramic socket:
http://www.chambersvirtualconvention...tTerminals.jpg
As you can see, the one has some corrosion, and the other looks rather baked (it sits inside the oven, so that's expected.) I am hoping that someone can tell me where I might get replacement parts for these things. I thought I would try our local appliance repair store, but in the event I strike out there, was hoping someone on this 'Board would have some ideas.
These parts probably work, but like when I did the Model B, might as well replace them while it's in pieces.
I'm also going to rewire the control panel, which controls the automatic clock and thermostat:
http://www.chambersvirtualconvention...lPanelBack.jpg
The electric wall ovens have a feature that I really like: there is a timer that you can program to turn the electricity off automatically, to finish cooking "with the electricity off". Also, the manual recommends no preheat, that you prepare the dish, put it in the oven, and THEN turn the oven on.
Has anyone else on this 'Board restored a wall oven yet? I have a feeling I'm going to be the Lone Ranger here, but if I can resolve those 2 parts mentioned above, the rest is gonna be easy.
t.
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ April 16, 2006 09:45 PM: Message edited by: RobbiQuest ]</font>
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Well, I learned from my local appliance store that those corroded prongs on the heating element are shot and must be replaced. Apparently I don't have to worry about the socket since the new replacement elements don't use those now. I got a laugh out of the store - when I showed the guy my parts, he scratched his head and said "we've had weird things come in here all day". Don't know why people say that about our Chambers things!!
Stoveman, I hope you are reading this since I have a question that you probably could answer better than anyone. The element available that's closest to my original size is just slightly larger. How close could I get to the oven walls before it's a bad idea? My original bottom element is 17"wide x 14.25"deep. The replacement one is 18"wide x 16" deep. Thanks for any help you have.
<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ April 18, 2006 09:39 AM: Message edited by: RobbiQuest ]</font>
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Hey T, Great new project! Looking forward to the progress. Did I send you the Electric info? On the clearance, no less than an inch would be OK. Larger element might effect the heat distribution a little, but would work. I feel that if we look hard enough, the Chambers/Kitchenaid/Hobart/Whirlpool element may be available. I have a part number Cross Reference to the Kitchenaid # that might help. Have you had any luck finding a part number?
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I'm guessing that's an element made by GE, because of the 3 prongs. Can you post a photo of the whole element and inches.
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Hi Stoveman! Thanks much for your response. Yes, I got the oven manual and literature from you already - that's been very helpful as it also has the wiring diagram for the control panel, which is comforting in case my hand-drawn diagrams get eaten by the dog! (won't be the first time.)
I am posting several photos, with the measuring tape against the element as that is easier than trying to explain.
First of all, the element mounting holes need to be 3.5" center-to-center.
Here's the oven bottom element width measurement:
http://www.chambersvirtualconvention...entBottomW.jpg
Here's the oven bottom element depth measurement:
http://www.chambersvirtualconvention...entBottomD.jpg
Here's the oven top element - this is the pic without a measuring tape so you can see the design, which is different than the bottom one:
http://www.chambersvirtualconvention...ElementTop.jpg
Here's the oven top element width measurement:
http://www.chambersvirtualconvention...lementTopW.jpg
Here's the oven top element depth measurement:
http://www.chambersvirtualconvention...lementTopD.jpg
This is probably "tmi" (too much info) for you, but I figure more is better in this case.
Please let me know if I forgot anything.
Thanks, Stoveman!
t.
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Are there any numbers on the plug in part of the element. Like 2500 watts or 3000 watts or anything that might help with the selection. Any name like Ge or Westinghouse or Chromalox, etc. Still researching, Sam
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Yep, here ya go, best I can make out:
Top element: Chromalox 235V 3000W 1 16220
Bottom element: Chromalox W55 235V 2000W 1 16219
I hope this makes sense. Thanks!
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Stoveman, I found some elements in a Chromalox catalog at my local appliance parts place. I think they might work ok. They are presently on order, so I will update you when they arrive. It's going to take several weeks, minimum.
I was able to keep the same wattage, and the dimensions are close. The hardest part was getting elements that had the same mount plate on the back so the screw holes would match up. I hope they arrive ok since the picture I was judging from was microscopic.
I'll keep you posted.
t.
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Yeh, that's what I found too. The new "universal" will probably have to be hard wired, instead of plug in. That's probably better because the sockets/plugs were weak points in most all ovens. Sorry I could be of more help.
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T, If you part doesn't work out, I found #3177420 made by Whirlpool that was used in later model wall ovens with the Chambers name on them after if went thru Chambers/Rangaire/Hobart/Kitchenaid/Whirplool
