What is the cut off point where as a driver can be restored, or be junked? Altec Lansing 288C Horn Driver Speaker 24 OHMS Repair? Parts? As is | eBay
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What is the cut off point where as a driver can be restored, or be junked? Altec Lansing 288C Horn Driver Speaker 24 OHMS Repair? Parts? As is | eBay
I'm sure others more knowledgable than I will chime in, but here's my somewhat amateur opinion:
That one looks like it has severe corrosion (to the point where the metal is permanently damaged). Of particular concern is the VC gap. The tolerances for the VC gap are very precise, so I would think that if there was anything above even the most minor corrosion there, the unit would be useless. I say that assuming that in order to repair it, the gap would need to be sanded, or otherwise have the corrosion physically removed, and that would ruin it.
I was thinking about the tolerances also. I was just curious if anyone had tried to resurect one with water damage with any success.
Quote:
Originally Posted by A7fan
most likely depends on your tools and your machining abilities.
or your friends and their tools/abilities.
Didn't one of you fellas have an 802G that was much crustier than those?
Seems like that one cleaned up surprisingly well, and based on that those 288's don't look so bad.
I had an 802G that I bought with a pair of Model 15's that had some major water damage. One was fine the other was trashed. I spent quite a bit of time cleaning it up with WD40 and jewlers very small screw driver to clean out the gap. I then used a speaker shim to clean out the gap even better. I was shocked that when it was all done it worked just fine. It's still rocking out in my friends garage. Didn't think I could "fix it" but it worked.
Here is the recap:
Here is a recap of what I did.
Removed 802-8G. One was good - one was extremely rusty
Sprayed WD-40 on bad one and let it sit. Started cleaning with a small wire brush. Then moved to wire brush on a drill.
Worked on cleaning out the gap that had a stuck diaghrapm. Used a small utility razor blade - spent approx 1 hr on it. Used vacume and air compressor
Used paper speaker shim's to clean out the gap more extensively - spent another 2 hours +
Clean all with hot water and soap
Cleaned and polished 32B horns with Armorall
Installed diaghrapms that I had sitting on the bench
Refished cabinets with Howards
Installed 414C (purchased from member Ron locally in the Portland area)
Removed and cleaned crossover network.
Installed all items
Plugged in and she rocks.
I let it run for awhile and then cranked it up a little. All sounds good. Still have some work to do as I think that I'm going to move the speaker connections from underneath to the back of the speaker cabinet. Additionally, I think that I have to replace one of the LPADS.
Here is a summary of the pictures.
http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/P1070120.jpg
http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/P1070133.jpg
http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/P1070134.jpg
http://i976.photobucket.com/albums/a...e/P1070138.jpg
Good Luck!
There is no doubt that if cleaned the driver will work, the question remains "will it work as well as a driver that wasn't damaged?" I'm pretty sure the answer is no.
That's the one!Quote:
I had an 802G that I bought with a pair of Model 15's ................
Thanks for posting.
That indeed is the question, and i think the answer very much depends on how much material has been lost.Quote:
There is no doubt that if cleaned the driver will work, the question remains "will it work as well as a driver that wasn't damaged?" I'm pretty sure the answer is no.
Thanks to all for your input. I will bid on these if the price doesn't go ballistic.Gonna have to go low, 200+ bucks for new frams, shipping and the roll of the dice on being repairable.
Jeeez - that 288 looks pristine compared to that 802. LoL! I never would guess that driver would produce sound worth a damn...:eek2:Quote:
Originally Posted by mattvandyke