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Hey guys, i recently changed my rotors (Brembo Cross Drilled), my pads, my shoes and drums.... all around! Complete!!! And my pedal is STILL hitting the wall!!! Is it my Master Cylinder? Do i need a new Pedal or something? How much is a Master Cylinder for our cars? Does anyone have one that they wanna let go of???
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Currently Driving:
-88 DX Hatch
- New Paint Job
- Redone Interior
- Intake (Pointless)
- Exhaust (Only gets me tickets...)
- Rims (13" Actual rims, no joke! they are not hubcaps!)
- Automatic Tranny (SHUT UP! I can Drive Stick, i am waiting on my AUTO to Manual swap with either ZC or LS/Vtec swap)
- Awsome stereo(Rockford Fosgate Headunit, Custom trunk floor with 2 amps, 2 12" subs, and rockford fosgate's new 3 way component system which includes 6 speakers!, and a 1 Farad Cap! I have all the parts and i am currently making the floor, fiberglass is so hard to work with!)
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have you blead your breaks? is there fluid in your master cylinder? good luck
logan
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<A HREF="mailto:[email protected]
">[email protected]
</A>
you can only pick one
Cheap and Fast=Crap
Fast and Quality=High Price
Quality and Low Price=you may wait forever
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yep, I'm having the same problem too. My front left brake is leaking/bleading...
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"Make Noise, Not Wars"
1989 silver civic DX
AEM CAI system, Fireball Sebring Exhaust, DC Headers...more mods coming up!
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How do i bleed my brakes? and yes i have a lot of fluid in my master cylinder.......
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Currently Driving:
-88 DX Hatch
- New Paint Job
- Redone Interior
- Intake (Pointless)
- Exhaust (Only gets me tickets...)
- Rims (13" Actual rims, no joke! they are not hubcaps!)
- Automatic Tranny (SHUT UP! I can Drive Stick, i am waiting on my AUTO to Manual swap with either ZC or LS/Vtec swap)
- Awsome stereo(Rockford Fosgate Headunit, Custom trunk floor with 2 amps, 2 12" subs, and rockford fosgate's new 3 way component system which includes 6 speakers!, and a 1 Farad Cap! I have all the parts and i am currently making the floor, fiberglass is so hard to work with!)
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If you haven't bled your brakes than give that a try. Get a friend and have him pump up the brakes and than have him hoold it down and then you untwist the bleeder valve on the caliper, Close the valve and than he can let the pedal come back up and pump again and than have him push down again and you open the valve up....do that a few times.
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building on what jmonk sayed. do that for each tire begining with the one ferthest from the master cyliender. and rotateing to the closest one. right rear, then left rear, right front, then left front
also be sure to add fluid to your master cylinder as you go.
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<A HREF="mailto:[email protected]
">[email protected]
</A>
you can only pick one
Cheap and Fast=Crap
Fast and Quality=High Price
Quality and Low Price=you may wait forever
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Where is the bleeder valve on the calipers and whatever i do for the rear drums/shoes
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Currently Driving:
-88 DX Hatch
- New Paint Job
- Redone Interior
- Intake (Pointless)
- Exhaust (Only gets me tickets...)
- Rims (13" Actual rims, no joke! they are not hubcaps!)
- Automatic Tranny (SHUT UP! I can Drive Stick, i am waiting on my AUTO to Manual swap with either ZC or LS/Vtec swap)
- Awsome stereo(Rockford Fosgate Headunit, Custom trunk floor with 2 amps, 2 12" subs, and rockford fosgate's new 3 way component system which includes 6 speakers!, and a 1 Farad Cap! I have all the parts and i am currently making the floor, fiberglass is so hard to work with!)
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if you jack your car up, look at your calipers where the brake line comes in, there will be a small bolt with a nipple on it and a whole thrugh it. that is the bleader valve I would use a boxhead wrinch to open and close it. it will be on the side that the cv goes in. a manual for nearly any car will be close enough for you go get it right.
------------------
<A HREF="mailto:[email protected]
">[email protected]
</A>
you can only pick one
Cheap and Fast=Crap
Fast and Quality=High Price
Quality and Low Price=you may wait forever
