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Ok guys on June 1st Im testing out the ZC! Now, what are some suggestions? Im going to run below a half tank of gas with 93 octane "like it makes a dif http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif", hooking up the cold air intake "iceman intake", putting on 13" wheels up front instead of 16's, and taking out speaker box and spare tire. Anything else? I bet Im going to suck but hell its worth a try! http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
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90 Civic DX ZC
Home Page:
http://www.geocities.com/ericsweb
4th Gen Page:
http://www.geocities.com/hondacivic4g
Car Club:
http://www.teamkayo.com
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take out the passenger seat.. i noticed the biggest difference when i did that... also, dont use an air filter, deflate the tires a tiny bit, and if u can, use 94 octane from sunoco, with some outlaw or nos octane booster
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You really want some go fast suggestions?
Here they are:
Cut off engine circulation system and PCV Ventline....This is jsut for the racing part...don;t do this for everyday because over a week the COmbustion byproducts and gasoline will break down your oil...especially if your rings are getting bad - you won't notice this either.
Valve Cover Line - Repalce with:
Short Piec eof Hose and Bretaher attached - place on valve cover spout.
Small piece of hose off intake pipe and bolt in it
....this elimates the engine suction, and it also lets the enginekeep oil fumes out of the intake charge and let's the blowby freely vent. This does happen, especially if you have ring blowby - everybody ahs 5% combustion pressure blowby, so don't tell me you don't - you only really feel it when engine load and high-rpm. If your exhuast valve seals are worn this will really show blowby.
Disconnect PCV line form intake manifold center large spout - leave sticking up in air - and add a breather to end of it. Put Shortpiece of hose and a bolt in it on the spout to the manifold.
....This stops the engine from passing a lot of blowby again into the manifold....it goes here first and even spills out through the valve cover spout secondly....but here is the largest issue. This also stops oil fumes. Oil fumes cause detonation! This is known. Also a colder air charge and fresh air is better.
Disconnect Brake Booster Line from Manifold - Take a piece of hose same diameter - plug a bolt in it. Place a breather in the Open side of the booster line - do not plug it off - you will not be able to stop if you do this - or you will feel like your trying to squash a really rubber baloon...trust me...I learn from experience!
...This is good for fast throttle response and your map pressure readings will be less delayed...less air volume shared by booster.
Deflate your tires...always recommended....a little more then 25 psi...it's worth every bit of it - you will be able to keep the wheels form spinning and have more grab.
Try to get some of that sticky spray compound....but take note that is you don't have a kevlar or ceramic disc, that you may actually eat the hell out of the clutch disc from excessive heat...kevlar and ceramic discs shed heat very quickly. Stock discs are unforgiving.
Do not pull your ECU power before a race for reset. Bad idea, ECU's run a base map until they are set in by driving and a couple of Cold Start to Closed Loop cycles. I have noticed the ECU likes a day's time to reset to a better responsive mapping from the ECU learn process.
DO a TB Bypass...stop waiting. Cooler air coming in helps.
Do not disconnect your intake pipe...feels more powerful but it isn't. If you have a stock setup - then yes because it doesn;t matter. But for a K&N, HKS, or AEM...there is an intake horn design that accelerates air lag at the intake - if anything remove the filter element and keep horn.
You can advance this distributor a degree or two and run the booster. I beleive they call the additive Octane Blue. It's a domestic octance enrichment additive for high compression V-8's. It kicks ass. But I would only do it if you have intake and exhuast and haven't rechipped.
Change your oil before the race. It does make a real difference. Running synthetics is great, but it will wear piston rings on older engines - this is a fact, another first hand experience deal for me. If your engine is more than 180K and hasn't had a ring-job and valve-seal repalcement, don't bother. You will do more harm then good. Synthetics will wear your piston rings by letting blowby down into the oil pan to deteriorate the oil like I stated before on older engines.
Bleed your coolant upper hose port...air gets caught up their alot and makes for a bad sensor read. Sometimes this is an issue.
Run 15" rims max. Anything larger on a D-series engine is a power sapper. 14 Inch rims are not optimum because they have too much sidewall flex and instability. But they work well enough. Slicks will knock off a lot of time, but you will need a really strong clutch kit.
Practice RPM's on launch - best to not spin on street tires and try get your reaction times down consistently.
I could add all kinds of other stuff...but it's not last minute stuff.
Oh, here's a really good one! I really like this one actually. Everyone may not agree but it works.
Remove the alternator belt and run it straight off the battery. Your going to have to let it run for ten or more minutes thereafter to recharge. Simply get near the line and about two cars back, with the alternator belt bottom bolt already slightly loosened and the top one lose, take a wrench and loosen the top bolt, flip alternator forward, pull belt off crank pulley - and have some kind of tin wire or something that you can tie it up temporarily with - a quick loop and twist is all you need. Practice this before the race. Should give your engine a good bit more. I've been wanting to try this, but don't have my CRX running for it to try. These guys that do this stuff professionally just run off an optima deep-charge battery and hook these cars up to chargers between runs and even swap out batteries.
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another thing eric you might wanna do to your motor do what i did a few days ago. Gumout makes this fuel injector cleaner, its kinda cool how it works. Let your car warm up to its normal temp, shut it off. Take your intake off your throttle body so you can see the TB's flap staring back at you. Turn the car back on, this gumout comes in a spray can, what you do is spray it down the TB for 10 seconds while you quicky move the throttle with your hand (or have a friend rev it). After 10 seconds of spraying you stop and wait for 10-15 seconds, this is to let the catalic converter cool down a bit (i notices during this time it helps if you keep the motor lightly gassed) Then you continue with the 10 second sprays and revving till the can goes dry, again if you let the car goto idle while your spraying your engine will stall don't let that happen. Things to look for, big blue clouds of smoke out back, mine even shot this black carbon crap on the ground. When your done shut it off and go and re-attach everything. Start it back up, go drive around, (hit the redline a few times it helps get it all out of there) This spray can cost me like 2-3 bills, i did that, oil change, and plugs...my car loves me right now i can woop the hell outta anything thru first lol.
Last peice of advice...go get'm Eric http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif
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89 black Si, STS #7
More suspension mods than you can shake a stick at...
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by habib_88:
another thing eric you might wanna do to your motor do what i did a few days ago. Gumout makes this fuel injector cleaner, its kinda cool how it works. Let your car warm up to its normal temp, shut it off. Take your intake off your throttle body so you can see the TB's flap staring back at you. Turn the car back on, this gumout comes in a spray can, what you do is spray it down the TB for 10 seconds while you quicky move the throttle with your hand (or have a friend rev it). After 10 seconds of spraying you stop and wait for 10-15 seconds, this is to let the catalic converter cool down a bit (i notices during this time it helps if you keep the motor lightly gassed) Then you continue with the 10 second sprays and revving till the can goes dry, again if you let the car goto idle while your spraying your engine will stall don't let that happen. Things to look for, big blue clouds of smoke out back, mine even shot this black carbon crap on the ground. When your done shut it off and go and re-attach everything. Start it back up, go drive around, (hit the redline a few times it helps get it all out of there) This spray can cost me like 2-3 bills, i did that, oil change, and plugs...my car loves me right now i can woop the hell outta anything thru first lol.
Last peice of advice...go get'm Eric http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
does this gumout stuff take all that ugly black crap on the inside of your TB? cause i looked in mine and it looks SICK, isn;'t it bad to spray stuff in your TB while it running? I need to clean it up in there..
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by RedRacerCivic:
does this gumout stuff take all that ugly black crap on the inside of your TB? cause i looked in mine and it looks SICK, isn;'t it bad to spray stuff in your TB while it running? I need to clean it up in there..<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Sorry it took so long to reply, to answer your question yea the i was using the spray to my advantge to clean off my TB, you'll be able to eat off the inside of yours once its done. I had a race out in ohio today, this is my first big road trip in my Si, and it ran beautifully, it just feels a bit smoother to me. This is a easy job to do i highly recommend it, just rember that its ok to spray stuff in there long as your on the gas revving the motor. I almost let it drop to idle while spraying and it almost couldn't move the spray fast enough and tried to stall. Quick pointer, once you do a can in your TB, after its done just do your plugs too if they are in need of changing. Good luck!
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89 black Si, STS #7
More suspension mods than you can shake a stick at...
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so its June 14th now, did you race or what??? http://www.pwrhouse.com/ubb/smile.gif
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Nope I did not race on June 1st. Rained out. Should be in the next week or two! http://www.pwrhouse.com/ubb/smile.gif Maybe I should just wait till I get that turbo and kick some arse! http://www.pwrhouse.com/ubb/smile.gif
