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I would like to severly lighten up my EX Coupe about 150 to 200 lbs, but I don't know where to begin. Anybody have a coupe who has lightened it and is it worth it? A pain in the ass? Or just don't worry about it and get a hathback? Thanks for any help.
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95 civic EX coupe, JRSC@6psi, BTC set at 3 clicks, 8psi coming soon with all the goodies.......
[This message has been edited by BoostedEX (edited January 22, 2001).]
Living in FL for 20 years, I would think twice about the AC pull. Its not the temperature as much as you need a way to suck that humidity out of the cabin.
It gets about 15 degrees hotter here in TX in the summer typically, but its 40% humidity or less usually. I found it almost pleasant here on the hottest days compared to south florida. You're clothes don't stick to you immediately.
I was thinking about this awhile back, too. I was really looking forward to the SCC article about how they dropped 138 lbs from their Si, but was very disappointed in it after reading it. Almost nothing suggested was practical and most of it made huge compromises in the safety of the vehicle (remove bumper braces, back seat "crossbeam", etc).
Here are some things I have noticed that seem to be heavy and can be removed/modified without affecting the safety or "comfort" of the car. My car is a 2000 Civic Si.
1) The header/a-pipe. The cast iron manifold/a-pipe combo felt much heavier than the DC Sports header that I installed last year. Granted, the DC header is not nearly as tough (I accidently put a small dent in mine without much effort). I didn't have a scale, but I'd guess the difference between the stock manifold/a-pipe combo vs the header was at least 15 lbs.
2) The intake system. The stock intake system consists of the airbox, snorkel tube, and resonator. I'd guess that removing it all and replacing it with a "filter on a stick" like the AEM or something similar would save about 10 lbs or more. The only drawback about the AEM was that it was loud as hell and eventually, the noise drove me nuts, so I put the stock system back on without the resonator. I think the resonator box alone is probably about 5 lbs.
3) As someone else mentioned, carbon fiber hood. I think you can save a nice chunk of weight here, but it's not a very cheap way to save weight. Weight difference? Not sure...30 or 40 lbs, maybe?
4) Lighter wheels...stock Si wheels are about 15lbs/each (don't have an exact measurement). I think you can get some Racing Hart CP-10's or something similar that weigh only 8 or 9 lbs. This option is very expensive, but it is probably more dramatic since you're removing unsprung weight. Weight diff: 15 lbs.
5) Lighter battery: The stock Si battery is pretty small and lightweight as it is, but I'm told that there are even smaller ones that weigh about 5 lbs or more less. Not sure about cost.
I think the first 50 lbs or so can be done without too much work. After that, it starts getting difficult and expensive. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/frown.gif
Sonny
[This message has been edited by Sonnyballs (edited January 22, 2001).]
I too was very disappointed with SCC's article on removing weight from their Si.
What about removing the sunroof??? No one ever talks about this but it seems like it'd make a pretty significant difference. Didn't TOO replace the sunroof on his Civic with a carbon fiber plug? I personally like that idea.
Matt
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Toxin:
I too was very disappointed with SCC's article on removing weight from their Si.
What about removing the sunroof??? No one ever talks about this but it seems like it'd make a pretty significant difference. Didn't TOO replace the sunroof on his Civic with a carbon fiber plug? I personally like that idea.
Matt<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Matt,
I'm sure it'd save a nice chunk of weight seeing that it is a big chunk of glass (ie, heavy). I'm not sure how practical it is though as far as "maintaining comfort level". http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif The wife likes it, too. Removing it would cause me problems. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/biggrin.gif If you're not in the same boat, it could be nice option.
Sonny
First things first. Do you want it to look like its still a car on the inside? Or could you care less? Do you want structural integrity? Or are we going for the "who cares, yank it out" effect?
If you want the car to still look normal, then I suggest yanking the seats and take a heat gun and pull all the sound deadening material out, front and back. If you want to get crazy, the heat resistant stuff on your firewall can go, though some people might not recomend it.
Next, you dont really need seat belts in the back, right? You dont need support braces for the back seat, since you have no seat belts, no one will be riding back there anyway. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif (Keep in mind, some of the braces are for structural support, be picky on which ones you pull if you're concerned.) One of the things I did was make my back seat easy to take out. I can yank it or put it in in under 3 minutes flat with relative ease. Of course, spare tire and all the tire changing stuff. Any unnecessary stereo equipment!
NO FAT WOMEN.
Carbon fiber hood, or full fiberglass front end. Fiberglass doors too if you feel daring.
Want to go crazy? (This is NOT recomended, if you get in an accident, it would suck royaly.) If you dont need it to run or hold the car in one piece, take it off. Bumper supports, under car braces, A/C, power steering, etc. All interior, and start cutting out stuff like inside panels and rear deck and where it needs coverage, replace it with carbon fiber or fiberglass. You didnt need that dash, just a tach, and speedo with a few other gauges screwed in here or there. (All coupled with the fiberglass frontend and doors.) (By this time a full roll cage would be nice.)
By this time you'll need less wind resistance. You've smoothed out the top of the car right? Well, what about the underside? There's plenty of turbulance. Run sheets of carbon fiber to cover large areas that might catch wind. I.E. back bumper. Be careful to take measures to keep your car from floating. You want the air to go around the car, not under... I cant stress downforce enough. FLOATING = BAD
BIG airdam. Also, a front end design that allows air in the front, then out the hood (like a reverse vent) will help with heat.
My best advice is look around your car. And remember, five pounds doesnt sound like much, but ten things that weigh five pounds do. Try to think about what you're pulling too. Think about if you had an accident if it would let your car be crushed like a beer can. Then think twice before you pull that item!
Good luck!
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"It seemed like a good idea at the time..."
I will start looking around my car for things to lighten or just remove completey. I am getting an A&A Carbon Fiber Hood in about three weeks from JRCivic. I have also thought about taking out my AC, but since I live in Florida I don't know if that's a good idea.
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95 civic EX coupe, JRSC@6psi, BTC set at 3 clicks, 8psi coming soon with all the goodies.......
plexiglass works!!!!!!!!
(or a trash bag and duct tape http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif )
hence the quote below...
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"It seemed like a good idea at the time..."
Yep...get a H/B http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
Tom
Or...pull the motor out of the Civic and mount it to a go-cart. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif
Good luck...
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'92 Civic Si H/B B18C1 powered and lovin' it!...J&S Safeguard, custom 2.5" B-pipe, Tenzo-R muffler.
Lookin' at turbo kits...
'99 Goped (X-ped) Fully modified, 14.0:1 CR, 17k rpm, 32 mph! :)
[email protected]
My stock exhaust manifold weighed 25 pounds.
The RSR 4-2-1 one piece I replaced it with weighed 12 pounds.
I read that the sound deading material shatters and comes off easy when it's cold (near 0 degrees F). If you're a northerner, now's the time. Otherwise, you can drop dry ice on it.
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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC @6psi, AEM CAI/RSR 4-2-1/Greddy PE, Cartech 20005/Walbro GSS-342/TPS Mod, JR BTC, KYB AGX/H&R OE Sport/ST 19mm Rear Swaybar
Best 1/4 ==> 13.937 @ 101.41mph
My JRSC Install Site