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hey,
i would like to say thanks all for the help on my previous problem.
i just installed a B&M under the hood fuel pressure gauge and an autometer air/fuel ratio guage,
i have the car idle and the FP is ~50psi, i dont know what is static FP but from what i have gathered from reading old post, you disconnect the vacum to the JR FMU at idle?, that is what i did and it read ~45psi.
on my air/fuel guage it tells me that i am really rich at WOT, 3-4 LEDs, should i back out the allen screw from the JR FMU till it is STOICH during WOT?
thanks
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Unfortunately, the A/F guages well..... suck. Lighting up 3-4 green LEDS probably means you are running a tad rich, which is a good thing for our "boosted" motors. To set your static FP you pull the vacuum hose from the manifold and put your finger over the end of it to seal it, then adjust your FP accordingly. How many psi are you running right now?
<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ April 29, 2003 11:10 PM: Message edited by: BoostedEX ]</font>
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could you explain exactly what static fuel pressure is?
I keep hearing the terms idle and static fuel pressurs, and i obviously know what idle fuel pressure is, but what is the static pressure then, since our FP's are always changing anyways due to boost.
thanks
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i am running the stock JR pulley i believe to be 6psi worth, so to set my static FP, with the engin on un hook the vacum from the JR FMU, close it up with ur thumb and adjust the allen screw to get the desired static FP? waht should my static FP be? thanks
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Static pressure: 0(Zero) Vacuum and 0(Zero) boost reading.
Atmospheric pressure, meaning 0-vac and 0-boost. When you take a static pressure measurement, you disconnect the vac line, plug the line and let the FMU or FPR read 0-vac and 0-boost.
My vocab might be off a "tad" but Static pressure measurements are taken at 0-vac, and 0-boost.
<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ May 01, 2003 07:58 AM: Message edited by: CROM ]</font>
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Also if you use the B&M FPR and are using a gss342 or holley gss351 high pressure high flow you will have a problem getting your fuel pressure lower than that. If you have either of the high flow pumps it is recomended to get a AEM FPR it has diferent size return orfices which will flow a a greater GPM back to the tank. the stock fuel pressure regulator will only allow a small amout of fuel to return to the tank. Almost the same effect as using a fmu but the restriction is at the regulator not the fmu. your idle fuel pressure should be the same as stock if you have the stock injectors. Hope that helps
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Hey MartyMarGSR - nice stealthy dash setup. Much more subtle than a stack of guages on the door pillar.
BoostedEX- autometer A/F guages suck? really? I had always been told that they were pretty good. Any recommendations?
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#DDDDDD"><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif"> autometer A/F guages suck? really? I had always been told that they were pretty good. </font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>
he's not trying to single out autometer. the point is, any narrowband a/f meter is nothing more than a light show, for the most part. the only way to get true readings is to get a wideband guage, or tune on a dyno that has one. an example of a wideband would be the techedge kit (www.techedge.com.au)
