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It seems that a few people on this board have picked up a TC-20 including myself. I just wanted to exchange settings info, tips, tricks,observations, and problems with people so we could get the most out of our machines. I'll go first.
TC-20 with halogen bulb upgrade.
Sony PD-150 DvCam
Multicoated UV filter
The transfers are really sharp and I can see all of the grain clearly. I have only transfered 18fps so I think 24fps will be smoother. At 18fps, I do notice a very slight and barely noticable flicker on only some scenes with large bright areas. When I turn it up to 24 the flicker is completely gone. I shot my previous footage on 18 and I'm now waiting for Kodak to send me my 24fps footage. I do notice the edge of the prism on the top of some frames. It seems to disrupt high contrast images on the top 1/8th of the frames. Do you guys notice this artifacting on your transfers? I have been just avoiding the top portion of my frames by using the 16:9 function on my dv camera. I am pretty pleased with the quality so far besides the prism edge issue.
Here is my pre transfer adjustment check list.
1. Align camera so that I get an evenly lit frame with the four corners even on left and right side.
2. Adjust framing of film (Run mode of course)
3. Stop film,ND2 filter on, adjust brightness on Goko. hand crank until a clear frame, set camera manual focus to infinity, focus Goko, fine tune camera focus.
4. White balance camera on a clear portion of film.
5. set camera to 1/30th sec shutter, f4.8-f5.6 iris, steady shot off, 16:9 on to cut off some artifacting on top portion of frame, and 0 gain.
Please share your settings and if anyone is interested, let's exchange images from the capture.
Thanks
souper8
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Turning the 16:9 function on the PD150 and most DV cameras will REDUCE resolution. This is because the CCD of the camera is actually not a native widescreen size. Instead, it mask the top and bottom section and digitally anamorphisized(?). You lose about 25% resolution.
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I too purchased a Super-8 model to play with. My thoughts on this device are:
1) I like the open film path, and the way it is built more like an editor than a projector. Seems fairly gentle on the film.
2) Very easy to set up IF you have the right kind of camera.
3) There does seem to be some visible flickering, although it is not too bad.
4) Image quality is really quite pleasing, colors are good. Not as good as aerial image or Rank though (of course).
5) No bright spots around middle or lack of focus around the edges as some users report. I saw even illumination throughout the image with the stock tungsten bulb.
All in all, I would say that for what it is, this machine is pretty nifty. The ease of use and compactness are (I think) its greatest strengths. Also, it is a lot of fun to use! I would much rather run film through this thing than my projector, because I know that it will not chew up my (or someone else's) film, as my projector does about one time out of a hundred.
I did experience a jumping or jittery effect around the top of the frame. However, I noticed that if I angled my camera up or down, I could make this effect either move to the bottom or disappear completely. The fellow at the shop mentioned to me that it is best to construct a stand for the player that has four holes large enough for the rubber legs to fit down into. Then the player is resting on its bottom, not the legs. This is sometimes necessary if you really want to align your camera perfectly (according to him).
I ended up getting my best transfer with an old Magnavox VHS camera, which I ran through to a television monitor and DV camcorder. The images were in focus, colors were bright and fairly accurate. I hate to say it, but the results looked very similar to what I got from having the same footage Ranked a few months ago. Don't misunderstand, I am not saying this thing is comparable to a Rank, just that this particular footage looked just as good.
One more note--you will be in alignment hell if you don't use the "right" kind of camera. My DCR-TRV8 Sony camcorder worked, but I had to place it about a foot away from the Goko lens. If I placed it directly against the lens, I couldn't see all of the frame. When I tried my old Magnavox VHS camera however, the alignment took all of 15 seconds. I noticed that the Goko manual says you should use a camera with no more than 10:1 zoom, and 21mm-35mm lens or something like that. I know that my Sony camcorder does not fall into that category.
Anyway, I liked this unit enough that I ordered one of the Regular-8 models as well. I've got several thousand feet of old footage from the 50's and 60's I'd like to transfer, and it beats paying thousands for Rank xfer.
Have fun!
- Jeff
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Regarding the 16:9 function on the PD150, the image is actually sharper when in 16:9 mode compared to 4:3 mode and masking in post.
Jeff,
I'm curious to see the difference between your Goko telecined image compared to the Rank image. Aligning my PD150 was a little painfull but now that I have the proper height adjusted, it's fairly quick to set up. I'm thinking about converting my machine to run at 15fps so I could capture progressive frames instead of fields so I could result in 1:1 transfers.
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I have heard that most of the consumer level DV cameras reduce resolution in 16:9 mode, but the professional ones do not. Perhaps it is the case that your camera works in a "true" 16:9 mode rather than just cropping the 4:3 picture.
Regarding the Rank vs. Goko'ed footage: I am trying to put together a clip that shows the same footage telecined by both systems. I had thought of posting this on another board (8mm.filmshooting.com). It may take me a week or so to put this together.
- Jeff
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I cn't wait to see the comparison between Rank and Goko. I would like to put up some telecined images also. Is there a place to put these images on these forums?
Anyone else out there have a Goko telecine or experience with these machines?
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Hey, I wanted to resurrect this topic from the stone ages to ask if there ever were any comparison clips posted. Jeff?
Thanks.
Marc S.
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Well, I have been working on a mounting system for my Goko and camera lately, so I haven't gotten around to posting any comparison clips. Without a mounting system, my transfers are hit-and-miss, because my camera is difficult to position in front of the Goko. When I do get the camera positioned correctly, the transfers look wonderful. I should be finished with my setup some time next week, so I could try to create some clips then.
Just a word about my mounting system, in case anyone is interested in this type of thing. I removed the feet from the Goko and fastened it securely to a 2'x2' board. I ordered a rail and rotating post from Edmund Optics and mounted this in front of the lens on the Goko. I also ordered a small "knuckle" piece which attaches to the top of the post, and then the camera attaches to the knuckle. This allows me to pitch the camera forwards or backwards (this piece is on backorder, so I am waiting on it). Also, I forgot to mention that the Goko has sliding rails between it and the 2x2 board, so all things considered, I can move the camera along any axis in relation to the Goko. Once alignment is perfect, I lock everything in place with thumbscrews.
I use 1/30 second shutter speed on my digital camera, which eliminates any flickering from the image (although it does soften the image a little).
Anyway, I apologize for not coming through with the clips. I'll try to get them within a few weeks.
- jeffdod
