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Simple:
The Cartech 2025i has an adjustable "Bleeder" to allow some of the boost signal to dissipate. This in turn does NOT push on the diaphragm as hard, thus allowing a greater amount of fuel to enter the return line. You can actually adjust the rise rate from about 2:1 to 4.5:1 using the restrictor, and from about 4:1 to 7.5:1 without the restrictor... simply by adjusting the bleeder screw from fully open to fully closed.
If your tuner has questions... he can call me.
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><table border="0" width="90%" bgcolor="#333333" cellspacing="1" cellpadding="0"><tr><td width="100%"><table border="0" width="100%" cellspacing="0" cellpadding="2" bgcolor="#FF9900"><tr><td width="100%" bgcolor="#DDDDDD"><font size=2 face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by JRCivic:
Simple:
The Cartech 2025i has an adjustable "Bleeder" to allow some of the boost signal to dissipate. This in turn does NOT push on the diaphragm as hard, thus allowing a greater amount of fuel to enter the return line. You can actually adjust the rise rate from about 2:1 to 4.5:1 using the restrictor, and from about 4:1 to 7.5:1 without the restrictor... simply by adjusting the bleeder screw from fully open to fully closed.
If your tuner has questions... he can call me.</font></td></tr></table></td></tr></table></BLOCKQUOTE>
According to the pic, the "bleeder" is the piece lying on the table and the bleeder screw is the one on the side (with the spring)? Does the restrictor "tap" into the hose that leads to the intake manifold? What is that hole at the base (facing right)?
http://home.sprynet.com/~johnnytso/_images/Cartech.jpg
The small piece of vaccuum hose on the counter in front of the regulator is actually the check valve... this allows some boost to be bled off without creating a vaccuum leak under part throttle conditions. If you blow into the hose end... you should hear air coming out of the check valve. If you try to suck air through the hose end... the check valve closes and you get NOTHING. This hose/check valve should be installed on the small barbed fitting to the RIGHT of the bleeder screw in the photo.
As for the hole on the bottom of the regulator... this is one of TWO fuel fittings... either the inlet or outlet. Since you cannot see the "IN" stamp in the photo, I am not sure which is facing the viewer.
The barbed fitting on the left in the photo is the source inlet... a vaccuum line from the JR manifold should be run to this location. If you have STOCK injectors, the restrictor would not be needed. However, larger injectors may require a lower rise-rate... and this is where the restrictor comes in. Simply pull the vaccuum source line off the regulator and slip the restrictor into the Cartech end... it will stay there after installation.
I'm trying to find some indepth info on the Cartech 2025 (the new billet one). The mechanic that I go to doesn't believe that the Cartech is adjustable and says that it's stuck at a 6:1 rise rate. I want to prove him wrong. I've already been to the Cartech site but it doesn't say much.
Does anyone know of other sites? Or can someone post a detailed explaination of how it is adjustable and such?
Thanks.
Will lowering the rise rate lean out the lower rpms? I'm just wondering if this will help low-end power. I still have the JR FMU, and I keep my static FP at 58 psi to keep full-throttle detonation away.
Is there an adjustment for onset of gain on the 2025i model?
Jim, you're the best [img]graemlins/thumbs_up.gif[/img] I can always count on your knowledge on explaining stuff. Wish there were guys here (Canada) with the know how about things like this.
One last question [img]wink.gif[/img] I have everything necessary to go from 6psi to 8psi. What I am wondering is, to save time and money (my tuner was going to install everything), can I just drop in 290cc injectors, swap out the JR FMU to the Cartech and change the fuel pump from the GSS317 to the GSS250 (which I got from you [img]smile.gif[/img] ) on the 6psi kit before I put the 8psi crank pulley on? What adjustments would I need to do (idle,static) if this can be done?
Oh yah, this is on a SOHC D16 [img]biggrin.gif[/img]
<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ March 13, 2002 12:13 PM: Message edited by: civic13 ]</font>
Call me at the shop and I can make the general fuel calculations and give you a very close starting point for your fuel.
Actually Jim can you post it here? If I call you, it'll be long distance and funds are a little tight [img]smile.gif[/img] Better yet, you can email me at [email protected].
I won't be installing the stuff myself anymore (don't have time), so when I get to my mechanic/tuner, what should my fuel settings be (290cc, Cartech 2025, GSS250, B&M style FPR, and J&S ultra w/MAP limiter)? This is for a SOHC D16Y7 (yah I know, no flaming please [img]smile.gif[/img] ).
On another post you mentioned to another member "Set your static pressure on the Cartech at 42 psi with the 290's... and set the stock FPR at 36 static. Set your bleeder screw so that your rise rate is somewhere between 3.75:1 and 4.0:1.
That should get you awfully close." Will these settings work for my setup/engine? The Cartech I have is already set at a rise rate of 4:1. I know how to set the static for the Cartech (disconnect the vac line from the FMU, plug it and turn the screw on top right?) But what are the steps taken to adjust the static on stock/B&M FPR?
Regards,
Steve
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