-
Well, I finally got off my arse tonight and checked my pressures (fuel). Static fuel pressure was a whopping 72 psi http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/eek.gif I lowered it with the hex nut on the POS Jackson FPR. I already know I am running really rich b/c of the dyno session a couple of weeks ago. It was costing me around 20 WHP. (142 to the wheels while rich enough to be off the dyno chart.) I am also running 11 degrees of timing for those of you who are curious. (No ping)
So I lowered the static pressure to 60 PSI and took her out for a couple of good hard pulls on the highway. One run in 4th showed 1 green and 1 yellow simultaneously on the Auto Meter A/F guage. All other times in 1st, 2nd, 3rd, and 4th it was 2 greens in the green. It used to be 4 or more in green so I am doing something right.
It really didn't feel faster at all. The rev limiter did come pretty quick in 2nd on one run though http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif I need to get back to the dyno and see if I have decresed the fuel enough not to spend $200 on a cartech for now.
Any opinions appreciated. Even all the haters with complaints about me testing the car on public roads. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/tongue.gif
------------------
94 Civic Coupe/LS Hybrid
JRSC@6psi
AEM CAI
DC 4-1 Ceramic Header
Test Pipe
GReddy PE exhaust
Magnacore 8.5mm Wires
MSD 6A
Skunkworks Coilovers
ACT 6 Puck
Turbo Convert
[This message has been edited by fastfour (edited September 14, 2000).]
[This message has been edited by fastfour (edited September 14, 2000).]
-
Sorry for posting this twice but I am practicing http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...388&Sequence=0
------------------
94 Civic Coupe/LS Hybrid
JRSC@6psi
AEM CAI
DC 4-1 Ceramic Header
Test Pipe
GReddy PE exhaust
Magnacore 8.5mm Wires
MSD 6A
Skunkworks Coilovers
ACT 6 Puck
Turbo Convert
-
Static pressure should be closer to 50, mine is actually 40. Just make sure under boost it goes up to around 85-90. Do you have an in-car or under hood fuel pressure gauge? A in car is really best. As well, running super rich will still cause you to be slower, best thing to time on the street is the time it takes to go between 3000 and say 8000 in 2nd or 3rd gear, or some other rpm combo and time that. It will take the launch out of it and give a good idea if you are going in the correct direction. Messing with fuel pressure just be careful to not run lean and start pinging. Have fun
Steve
-
I dissagree. Static (i.e. no vacuum) pressure should be at least 60. Mine is at 65.
------------------
Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC, I/H/E, yada yada yada...
My JRSC Install Site
-
I agree with Holden, hell, my Civic's static pressure is 52 psi, which means the Integra's should be at minimum the same or higher. Tom
------------------
'92 Civic Si H/B (D16Z6) w/JRSC @ 6psi, J&S Safeguard, Fields SFC, Slater CAI, DC 4-2-1 header, custom 2.5" B-pipe, Tenzo-R muffler, Cartech FMU, B&M CommandFlo FPR, a grindin' 2nd gear and a bunch of knock...
-
I have the B&M underhood guage and the autometer guage is in the car but not hooked up yet. It is too complicated for me to tackle alone. Is the autometer electric FP guage more accurate than the B&M underhood guage?
------------------
94 Civic Coupe/LS Hybrid
JRSC@6psi
AEM CAI
DC 4-1 Ceramic Header
Test Pipe
GReddy PE exhaust
Magnacore 8.5mm Wires
MSD 6A
Skunkworks Coilovers
ACT 6 Puck
Turbo Convert
-
I wouldn't trust either of them to be accurate within +/-5psi.
I have a B&M filter top gauge and an Intellitronix inside gauge. They not only never agreed, but they disagreed in DIFFERENT DIRECTIONS at different pressure ranges.
The Intellitronix seemed to give more reasonable readings, so I replaced the B&M gauge with an industrial gauge that had a rated accuracy of +/-4psi. The gauges still disagree, but they do so consistently (The mech. gauge is always a little higher than the electric gauge.)
fastfour: I would hook up the Autometer gauge and trust see how it compares to the B&M gauge. The install is not hard. You can either add a Tee to the B&M gauge location and put the sender there, or cut the fuel line between the filter and fuel rail and put the sender there.
I would recomend putting a Tee on the B&M gauge hardware. If you do cut the fuel line, you can just use 1/8"NPT fittings, but Summit has a nice one piece doohickey for $5 that probably flows better than 1/8"NPT nipples and hardware.
There are directions on my site for the install.
------------------
Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC, I/H/E, yada yada yada...
My JRSC Install Site
-
Thanks Greg, you always come through http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif
------------------
94 Civic Coupe/LS Hybrid
JRSC@6psi
AEM CAI
DC 4-1 Ceramic Header
Test Pipe
GReddy PE exhaust
Magnacore 8.5mm Wires
MSD 6A
Skunkworks Coilovers
ACT 6 Puck
Turbo Convert