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Please tell me you are not putting an aftermarket thermostat in your car ?!? The small vent shunt is just a diverter... instead of a streaming hole, it directs warm water over to the area in the housing that holds the fan switch.
If you install the JR thermostat, drill three or four 1/8" holes near the 12 o'clock position of the thermostat. Make sure that the gasket seal lip does NOT cover the holes.
Most people who install an aftermarket thermostat (with the exception of a Mugen or Spoon), have erratic coolant temperature fluctuations... and shortly after this, remove them.
Good luck.
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Oh no, it was just hypothetical [img]confused.gif[/img] . Actually, I hadn't heard others having issues with it and figured it wouldn't hurt for $10. Maybe now it just won't hurt that I only spent $10 and have a backup thermostat in case I ever need one (my original thermostat is still going strong after 104,000 miles [img]biggrin.gif[/img] )
What I would like to do is whatever else I can that is effective and reasonable to manage temperatures since I'm going to try upping the boost again. I think I'll be covered between some more good dyno tuning with the EFI PMS and 440s and the H2O injection with alcohol/water, but I'm open to ideas.
I'm also open to constructive criticism and "if it ain't broke don't fix it" feedback.
I would still like an answer to my initial question though. Do I just need to yank the thing hard enough to get it out....if I do decide to change it?
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Ok, I got to the thermostat without much effort, but the thermostat and gasket are stuck in there. Is there something I'm missing about taking it out of the housing, or do I just need to give it a good enough yank?
What's that little pin for since it's not on the JR thermostat?
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Sorry... YES, yank really hard. It will come out.
