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I've just recently gone to 8psi with my JRSC and finally got a j&s safeguard. (figured I didn't really need it until now)
Long time ago, I saved a post of larry's about tuning with a Safeguard (see copy in next post).
If I'm reading it correctly, it seems you should get pretty close to dyno-like results.
"We use the device for a multitude of reasons. First we can be quite agressive with any tune-up, regardless of engine type.
There are never any two cylinders in any engine that actually "want" the same timing for optimum performance. With the SafeGuard, we can bump timing a couple degrees past what's optimum for the "average" cylinder and then allow each cylinder to "seek" it's individual timing requirement. So power production is as large a factor for using the unit as the protection aspect.
The fact that you can optimise every cylinder and keep all on the "edge" with the insurance that the engine's not going to be damaged, should there be a glitch in any of the many vital support systems, provides peace of mind and it also allows us to move all development programs much faster pace than we could without the device.
Once we've assembled a particular package, we'll adjust the timing curve so that the J&S is just "flikering" one light. Occasionally in areas where the timing curve might be too hot, we might see two or three lights flicker, but they will all go out, when the timing curve falls back inline.
My personal feelings are that using a J&S with it's dual monitor (or any A/F ratio meter) combined with a fuel pressure gauge inables me to find the "tune-up" that the engine wants within just a couple tests. When you're bumping too many lights, either pull some timing, add some fuel, or both. The fact that you can run to limits without smoking the engine permits one to achieve results fast and that's really something that helps out around here. As I've stated previously, using the equipment mentioned above, you can appear to be a tuning "genius" to others and even yourself.
NASCAR has made the J&S illegal, because we could tune and achieve almost 50 more horsepower with them. Having the ability to run a "qualifying tune-up" for 500 to 600 miles sure gives an advantage in the races and, although it might not be visable, having that additional juice to make a pass when nobody else can can sure help avoid accidents and it can also win races.
I wish they'd let everyone use them. Engine expenses would be cut in half."
I've dyno tuned my car twice, and I plan to see what kind of results I can get experimenting with this unit. Then I'll take it to the track.
I guess it will be sort of difficult to adjust cam gears, but timing and adjusting my VTEC controller should be good to go.
Anyway, for anyone who would like to comment, here's my plan.
1. Advance timing until I get some detonation light, knock, ping at idle. Then move it back
2. Then work on increments of 1000 rpm with my SFC controller, inducing the first indication of ping (by retard.knock module), and then enriching the fuel, or if necessary using MSD.
That's sounds like a good plan to me. Just make sure you have the sensitivity set at least to 9-10 o'clock and tighten the knock sensor securely to eliminate false positives.
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by reddelsol:
1. Advance timing until I get some detonation light, knock, ping at idle. Then move it back<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Are you talking about tuning the j&s or tuning your car? Make sure you have the TPS wire disconnected. You should never get detonation lights at idle once that wire is hooked up.
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by ringer:
Are you talking about tuning the j&s or tuning your car? Make sure you have the TPS wire disconnected. You should never get detonation lights at idle once that wire is hooked up.<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
thanks ringer -- I got the unit yesterday, so I'm not real familiar with it yet.
I know with the SFC VTEC controller, you can lean it out until it misfires at idle, but I'm wasn't sure how this would affect the j&s.
At any rate, I will be experimenting carefully with it for the near future.
Just be sure not to let it lull you into thinking your motor won't break regardless of how you tune it, because the J&S is there. It's a good tuning tool and safety net, but you can still break your motor if you try hard enough.
reddelsol: There should be a procedure for tuning the sensitivity in the j&s instructions. Just go with that and see what happens. Most people around here have the knob set to 10 o'clock or 10:30 (assuming using the supplied knock sensor). I usually see lights in certian RPM ranges so I'm hoping the BTC will do good for me like it did for rjaffey.