Factory option or DIY?
Altec Lansing 421-8H II 16" LF Woofer Speaker 8ohm 150W | eBay
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Factory option or DIY?
Altec Lansing 421-8H II 16" LF Woofer Speaker 8ohm 150W | eBay
I think the seller is saying he cut them......
"The sides were cut to enable these 16" frames to fit side by side in vintage Altec cabs that were designed for 15" frames. This is a very cost effective way to replace 515B LFs in older 210 Cabinets."
Personally, I wouldn't replace 515's with 421's--I'd get the 515's re-coned by GPA before I'd do that. He says it's cost effective, but I would call re-coning the 515's the cost effective solution--not replacing them with 421's....
He has a number of cut 16" frames/drivers. IMHO way over priced for an effectively weakened (read destroyed) unit.
I have no 515's. The originals just sold for a few grand a pair. I'll do a lot of cutting before i drop 6 grand on 4 woofers. I will actually in fact be loading my 210's with JBL product while i continue to research what will be the best long term woofer solution for me. Truncating(cutting) 421's is one possibility for me as their performance in a big horn isn't that far off from 515's. The only certainty is that it won't be original 515's.Quote:
Personally, I wouldn't replace 515's with 421's--I'd get the 515's re-coned by GPA before I'd do that. He says it's cost effective, but I would call re-coning the 515's the cost effective solution--not replacing them with 421's....
You can get brand new 515's from GPA depending on model for $300-$500 a piece.They are pretty much manufactured to Altec specs.
It's a size issue AB.Quote:
You can get brand new 515's from GPA depending on model for $300-$500 a piece.They are pretty much manufactured to Altec specs.
The old style 210's have less than 1/4" driver clearance from the outside walls and each other with early split rim style frames.
One option that i have not abandoned yet is to collect 4 new old style(non split rims) 15 inch Altec frames and have GPA build me a quad of alnico 515B's on those frames.
Another option is to just cut the frames on a set of new ones, but i'm not sure the idea is all that appealing to me beyond the idea stage. Cutting a 30-40 year old speaker that i'm into for under a C note is one thing, hacking on a brand new GPA/Altec is quite another.
I think probably collecting some dead 418's, 421's and 423's to scavenge their frames and have GPA build 515B's on them will be the best of all worlds.
Your right. Forgot about the cabs.Was just thinking about those poor frames.
I don't think they look too bad. It looks like they were cut straight with a saw that's meant to cut aluminum. I don't think the structural integrity would be compromised enough to worry about either, given the way they're mounted to the cabinet. I've seen them cut worse before in auctions.Quote:
Originally Posted by Altec Best
I admit, it makes me a little upset when I take a look at one of my McCauley's that have had the mounting holes hogged out........ I still don't know why that was done.
If you don't have blown 515's to re-cone then this is a great "cost effective" solution that doesn't involve any cutting and you get the sound quality of 515's which beat out 421's (for many applications) IMHO......Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtie427ss
As heathen like as it sounds, a sharp 60 or 80 tooth blade on a table saw would make those cuts and leave a very clean finish.Quote:
I don't think they look too bad. It looks like they were cut straight with a saw that's meant to cut aluminum. I don't think the structural integrity would be compromised enough to worry about either, given the way they're mounted to the cabinet. I've seen them cut worse before in auctions.
In case you're wondering, i'd choose 2 opposing bolt holes(between the spokes, keep the holes at the ends of the spokes for mounting) for the centerline of the woofer. Then, i'd determine my desired overall width from truncation to truncation and draw a line on the table of my saw exactly half that distance from the inside of the blade and parallel to it. I'd use that line to locate my woofers, just center the bolt holes used to form a centerline over the line on the table at a point where the bolt hole in the portion you're going to cut off is about centered over the saw shaft. I'd clamp the woofer in place, start the saw, and raise the blade up far enough to complete the cut. Drain, rinse, and repeat as necessary.
.......... and it overcomes that whole fitment thing.Quote:
If you don't have blown 515's to re-cone then this is a great "cost effective" solution that doesn't involve any cutting and you get the sound quality of 515's which beat out 421's (for many applications) IMHO......
Plus, i'm a bass freak. I'll gladly compromise a bit of the original 515's midrange magic for the solid extension of the 515B's.