-
just dynoed my prelude with blower after having it on for about 2 months.did a few start and stop runs on the street and heard a groaning noise from the exhaust/feul pump area.After about 4 runs the noise stopped so I headed back home. On the highway, driving along and suddenly I lose ALL throttle response. The lights are on( no flickering),radio is playing,AC is on, and J&S monitor is reading in the yellow portion of the monitor.Barely made it off the highway.Now the ignition will not turn over.It will crank, but it refuses to turn over.Right before all this happened a had set the cruise control to see what the J&S monitor would read and it was in the green for the most part, sometimes yellow.I had just turned the cruise control off when all of this happened.
For 2 months I have had only 1 incident since the blower was installed. After a nice highway run about a month and a half ago, I shut the car off, go inside, come out about 10 minutes later and the ignition would not turn over.It cranked but would not turn over until the next morning. No check engine lights or anything and have not had another problem until this evening.
Pretty much the only thing adjusted on the dyno was the fuel pressure regulator and a few clicks on the BTC. The J&S setting is still the same.The FPR is adjusted all the way in and I am still at 13.5 air/fuel ratio on the dyno........which means i was running even leaner before the dyno session.
Could I possibly have a bad fuel pump?
It doesn't seem to be electrical so was the cruise control incident just coincidence?
Also I bypassed the J&S(by just connecting the green and white wires to see if that was the problem.......no effect!
GRRRRRRRR-what is it?
Someone please offer advice
98 Honda Prelude
AEM cold air intake,mugen header,mugen exhuast,AEM underdrive pulley(power steering only)Jackson supercharger, stock boost,Walbro fuel pump 255flow rate according to Jackson
[This message has been edited by jshroud (edited July 31, 2001).]
-
Check your distributor, that's where most ignition problems seem to locate to, and if this has happened before, yours could be going bad, happened in my brothers accord a few times where the ignitor just dies and his car stops working. As for your a/f ratio, 13.5 is running pretty dangerously, how's the activity on your J&S? You should be running near 12.3-12.7 to be on the safe side as far as I know.
jon
-
Sounds like the walbro pump may be dying. just my 2 cents.
Joe
-
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by JRSCGSR:
Check your distributor, that's where most ignition problems seem to locate to, and if this has happened before, yours could be going bad, happened in my brothers accord a few times where the ignitor just dies and his car stops working. As for your a/f ratio, 13.5 is running pretty dangerously, how's the activity on your J&S? You should be running near 12.3-12.7 to be on the safe side as far as I know.
jon<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
yea I know. The J&S seems fine-in the red during wide open throttle, yellow most of the time when I'm cruising and green most of the time when i use cruise control......in other words pretty normal.
-
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by falconGSR:
Sounds like the walbro pump may be dying. just my 2 cents.
Joe<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
that's what i thought and it might still be the case.....but i started pulling fuses and found the prelude has 2 fuel pump fuses--one was missing for some strange reason and the other was blown.replaced them both and the car started right up.
temporary fix until i can find out why it blew in the first place.
also my J&S is well into the red during WOT, yet the dyno shows I'm running about 13.5 a/f ratio. sounds weird to me.
also after dyno tune my BTC is set much higher to retard now aprox. 9-10 clicks as opposed to 4-5 clicks and I get lots of black smoke out the tailpipe. I'm able to induce detonation by jumping on the throttle hard in 3rd,4th,and 5th gear as opposed to before only in 5th gear. Also in 5th gear now it pulls so much timing out if i jump on it that the car just bogs down.
if i'm running lean on the dyno why does the J&S not show it?
would bigger injectors bring down my fuel pressure?
-
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by falconGSR:
Sounds like the walbro pump may be dying. just my 2 cents.
Joe<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
that's what i thought and it might still be the case.....but i started pulling fuses and found the prelude has 2 fuel pump fuses--one was missing for some strange reason and the other was blown.replaced them both and the car started right up.
temporary fix until i can find out why it blew in the first place.
also my J&S is well into the red during WOT, yet the dyno shows I'm running about 13.5 a/f ratio. sounds weird to me.
also after dyno tune my BTC is set much higher to retard now aprox. 9-10 clicks as opposed to 4-5 clicks and I get lots of black smoke out the tailpipe. I'm able to induce detonation by jumping on the throttle hard in 3rd,4th,and 5th gear as opposed to before only in 5th gear. Also in 5th gear now it pulls so much timing out if i jump on it that the car just bogs down.
if i'm running lean on the dyno why does the J&S not show it?
would bigger injectors bring down my fuel pressure?
-
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by jshroud:
if i'm running lean on the dyno why does the J&S not show it?
would bigger injectors bring down my fuel pressure?<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Ok, the dyno uses a wideband which is far more accurate than the O2 sensor your car uses. The stock o2 reads either rich, lean, or stoich. The wideband reads exactly how rich or lean. That's why you can't rely on those...and why the dynojet wideband costs 2500! http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/eek.gif
Bigger injectors will allow you to bring down your fuel pressures substantially. I'd recommend some RC 310's or similar sized with an Apex unit to dial it in exactly. Then you will have almost spent as much as you would for a Hondata which would solve all your problems forever...trust me.
Jay, until you get a Hondata system, be prepared to get used to these bandaid headaches. I tried to tune your car conservatively since you are running so lean. This is why it doesn't run quite a strong as it did before - for safety. HTH
------------------
-JG-
-1994 Civic EX-
-Block in the shop, turbo in the closet!-
-vapor-trail.net-
-
If you popped a fuse, I would say you need to swap out the pump. Warranty?
-
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by VaporTrail:
I tried to tune your car conservatively since you are running so lean.
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
John, you tuned it yourself? Does this mean there's another JRSC Lude in Tampa besides me?
Oh man...what IS the world coming to...
J/k. jshroud, if you need to compare setups or settings, don't hesitate to contact me: [email protected]
------------------
'98 White Prelude
JRSC
AEM Short Ram
GC's with 450/375 springs
Koni Adj Shocks
DC Sports Ceramic Headers
Rear ST Sway Bar
-
jshroud; if you want to change injectors, don't bother with anything less than 370cc.. stock is 270, and going to 310 will not help at all. if you want, 370 should still be within the ecu capabilities to idle it. of cse, you will still have to use the fpr, but at least you will run less fuel pressure and your fuel pump will prob. draw less current then.
------------------
