90-C Light FIxture repair

I have a Model 90-C (high-back) which, of course, has the broken flourescent light fixture. One of the molded plastic end/receptacles that the bulb clips into is broken.
I am a do-it-yourselfer on a low budget, so I'd really rather not do the incandescent retrofit (at $150). I am more interested in either repairing what I've got or at least refitting current-style flourescent ends in the existing opening.
My main question - how do I remove the inset light housing? I can't even tell how the back panel of the high-back is removed. Or is there a way it comes out the front?
And then , assuming I do get the housing out, does anyone know what kind of bulb is required, and whether they are 'hard to find' or downright 'impossible to find'?

Any help greatly appreciated!

I replaced the wiring on my light recently, but the fixture was intact otherwise, so I can't be of any help on the retrofit.

As for access, however, you need to have the stove pulled away from the wall. Remove the large panel that sits behind backsplash. It's held on by only a few small screws. You may even find a set of directions for panel removal pasted right on the back of the stove, where is was placed before leaving the factory. This panel is insulated, and is somewhat weighty, so be prepared when you take in apart.

The light fixture removal is simple. From the front of the stove, two screws hold the chrome glass frame. Once this frame and glass are removed, there are four (I think) screws that actually hold the fixture to the backsplash. Have someone hold the fixture while you remove these screws to avoid dropping the light.

Good luck, and let us know what you end up doing for your light repair. The original plastic in the fixtures is very brittle after all those yours of cooking, and many of us will have to retrofit our lights eventually.

-Jenn

Thanks Jenn! That got me going in the right direction. I was trying to unscrew the smaller screws on the back panel, which just spun freely because there was no way to hold the nut from behind.

Anyway, I did remove the 4 bigger screws at the base of the back panel, and from there I could remove the housing for the lamp fixture.

I took out the old, brittle lampholders and found a set at Lowe's that almost fit perfectly (Advance Model FRBP). similar to this:
http://images.orgill.com/200x200/8530511.JPG

The rectangular openings in the housing are the right distance apart for an 18" (F15T8) bulb, and at 3/8" wide they are just the proper width. The long dimension of the cut-out in the Chambers is only 7/8", whereas the new lampholder requires a full 1". Lengthening the cutout will be a little tricky, since it approaches where the screw holes (for the old holders) are. I think a 3/8 Dremel cylinder grindstone will do the job.

I will need a ballast for the new flourescent lamp, new switch and cord. All of this, though, will be considerably less than the other retrofits I have seen (and use less electricity than the incandescents).

If anyone is interested I can take pictures and post as I go.

I'd definitely like to see photos of what you've done! I figure the porject's inevitable with my stove. Even if the fixture hangs together, the old light are tough to find.

-Jenn

Rwood,

I will definitely need to do the same work on my stove. Please take pictures. Always good to follow in someone else's footsteps.

thanks

Frank

Jenn, Frank and others,

It really works! I don't know why I am always surprised when things work out; maybe I am just pleased.

Total cost was around $25, and all items were found at Lowes (can be had cheaper, I'm sure, by ordering online.) It required an 18" Closet Light Kit (had bulb, ballast and starter/bracket, $14.88), a low-profile lampholder set and a push-on/push-off switch.

Total time was around 87.5 hours. No, not really! Probably 3 hours yesterday thinking about it and staring at it. Another 3 hours today actually putting it together.I was glad I slept on it, because I had a hard time deciding whether or not to 'cut and drill' on the Chambers enameled steel. I do think that the incandescent retrofit is probably less invasive, especially since it doesn't involve a ballast or a starter. In the end, I decided to follow through with my original idea, knowing that the final result would be much closer to the original look and feel of the Chambers.

So here is how I did mine. This might not be for everyone, but check it out and decide for yourself!

First step was to clean up the light housing.

Here it is "BB" (before Brillo):
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit001.jpg

I was very pleased with how it cleaned up. "AB":

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit007.jpg

Next, to lengthen the rectangular openings for the lampholders. I found that the edge of a mill file worked best for this:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit009.jpg

I checked the fit as I went, so that I took out as little metal as possible.


http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit010.jpg
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit016.jpg

Running out of space........will post more momentarily!


RWood

Part Deux

Where were we? Oh yeah........

Once both lampholders fit well, I attached them (using nuts and screws from the original Leviton, btw)

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit020.jpg

Then a quick bulb-check to make sure everything was looking good.

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit021.jpg

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit023.jpg

And on to the ballast. This was a tough one because there is not a lot of spare space up there, behind the light housing. The oven vent duct goes right behind it. The area where there is a bit of room is off to either side of the housing, inside those bulbous upper corners that so well define the Chambers' appearance.

So thanks to a conveniently-sized ballast, I was able to mount it on the right end of the housing, by bending the ballast tabs down:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit027.jpg

The starter bracket would go on the opposite end. For this, I used a Unibit step-drill. It's a pricey bit that you might not have on your bench but it has proven its worth many times over. Here's how it handled the 7/8" hole for the starter/bracket:
http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit031.jpg

And again, the mill file to notch out the sides of the hole for the bracket:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit034.jpg

In a few minutes, we'll wire it up and give it a try!

Continuing on with the project.....

Attaching the starter bracket:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit035.jpg

And here it is, ready to be wired:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit041.jpg

Before I cut the leads on the Closet Light Kit, I drew a schematic showing which wires went where, observing the wire colors and the polarities. I added my own lamp cord/plug (16 gauge).

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...it-wiring2.jpg

From there I just started at one end and worked my way around to the other. Some folks use wire nuts for these kinds of connections but I prefer soldered joints covered with shrink-wrap insulation.

Next step, try it out! I confess I did put the goggles on for this. (These babies EXPLODE!) No, not really [img]graemlins/wonder.gif[/img]

To my amazement, it did THIS:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit044.jpg

and THIS:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit046.jpg

Then it was time to (do a little happy dance and install it in the stove.

Final shots in a few minutes.

Here's how it looks in the stove.

Without bezel:

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit059.jpg

And with ...

http://i32.photobucket.com/albums/d2...etrofit063.jpg

I've worked up a bit of an appetite...all this work around the stove!

Let me know if you have questions about this illuminating project.

RWood

Fantastic Project. Well done!

Positively A + . Where are we archiving this? I can't wait to show my husband tomorrow...v

<font color="#FFFFFF" size="1">[ March 09, 2006 11:39 PM: Message edited by: lowracer ]</font>

Well done, excellent work. I will be attempting the same fix on mine. Your trail will be easy to follow.

thanks,

Frank

Nice job!!! When the light in my stove finally croaks, I know exactly where I'll be looking for guidance. Thanks for posting all the photos and info.

-Jenn

Hi RWood, Thanks for showing us how to do this. With all your great pictures, it looks easy enough. Problem is, I can't find the parts you used. My Lowes doesn't have them and all the other 18" fixtures have too big a balast. Could you specify the actual brands you used? Maybe I can order them online. Thanks

Don't suppose one of you Adobe Acrobat geniuses can archive this in printable form?

I've got the whole thread in pdf format. Who wants it?