And the current bid is ~$2100 US without hitting the reserve yet. And the xo's have been gone refubished by the top local tube-tech.
Altec Lansing Model 19 for sale - TradeMe.co.nz - New Zealand
<sigh>
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And the current bid is ~$2100 US without hitting the reserve yet. And the xo's have been gone refubished by the top local tube-tech.
Altec Lansing Model 19 for sale - TradeMe.co.nz - New Zealand
<sigh>
Sheesh! $2920 and they don't even have the foam inserts! Oh well, being a DIYer, anything over the ~$600-700 cost of parts/materials/tool maintenance allowance gags me.
GM
Yeah, I pretty well blanched at the 2k NZD starting price.
2900 NZD = 2100 USD
Prolly be cheaper to buy in the US and ship....
eeekQuote:
Originally Posted by analog addict
GM wrote:
Sheesh! $2920 and they don't even have the foam inserts! Oh well, being a DIYer, anything over the ~$600-700 cost of parts/materials/tool maintenance allowance gags me.
I'm a cabinetmaker and quoted a pair of these for a guy recently. You're right - 6 or 700 would buy the 5 sheets of veneered MDF needed, but when you start to add any value to the 35 hours or so of labor required to build and finish a primo set of cabinets... Plus the cost of the components, 2,900 isn't looking so bad!
It probably IS cheaper to buy in the U.S. and ship.
Ed
I think 3k is an excellent deal if they are in good working order.
Money is not an issue with me when it comes to audio equipment. To date I have never heard anything better. I have seen and heard PLENTY of systems that cost a hell of a lot more than 3k and they simply wont hold a match to the Altecs.
Not everyone will agree with me and I dont care. My ears love them above all.
The day I find something better I will have them but for now.... Its Altec. ;)
Thirty Five hours. Man you are quick. Would you do your own veneers? I think I could knock out a pair of those in maybe 100 hours, maybe 200....300 tops.Quote:
Originally Posted by edharbur
The reason I ask about the veneers is that one of my projects is to build a sled for my Mod 72 Powermatic that will cut precise finger joints out to about 25" wide. I seriously doubt I could put together all those long mitre's. never have yet anyway. After finger jointing the MDF, I would clean up the bumps with a hand plane then glue the veneer on. Laminate cutter to finish the edges? Is this plausable? Or nuts? Titebond III for some work time. Then the edge banding. Four hundred hours, no more.
Alms for the poor?Quote:
Originally Posted by Nipper
;-)
Airboss-
"Thirty Five hours. Man you are quick."
Amazing how quick you can be when you are trying to make your mortgage!
My approach starts with large, very accurate, very expensive (decent new car) saws such as: Experience perfection with MARTIN: T74 Automatic. I own 3, which accounts for my missing new cars in 2000, 2005 and 2010. The beauty of these saws is that they cut extremely square. I'd start with pre veneered sheets, sequence matched and hand selected. I'd rough size them and edge them with yellow glued veneer. The hot melt stuff seems to always fall off eventually. After edging, I'd cut all the miters to 45.1 or 45.2 degrees, so that when I glued everything up, I'd be sure that the feather edges were touching and not the inside corners. I'd dry assemble the boxes. When I got everything where I wanted it, I'd heavily masking tape the corners together, stretching the tape as tightly as I could, leaving one of the bottom corners untapped. You need a high quality tape such as 3M 233+ for this to work well. I'd also cut the front face, which in the pictures appears to be flush with the front edges of the sides, and locate it with biscuits or a spline. The only biscuit machine worth owning, in my opinion, is a Lamello. I'd unfold the box next, apply Titebond original liberally (this increases the tack time slightly) and refold the box, quickly and tightly taping the open corner. Great results assured. If I was concerned about joint strength; I'm not in this case; I'd apply corner blocking after the box set up. Repeat 3 more time, and 4 more for the base and spacer?
I think that your approach is perfectly acceptable given your machinery, and you can get a very high quality job if you put sufficient time in. Remember to veneer both sides of the wood to prevent warpage. Use raw (not paper backed) veneer. Try Berhshire veneer and tell Ben that Ed Harbur sent you - he'll come up with something special for you. A laminate trimmer is the tool of choice for trimming. We prefer Tightbond for veneering - there are more advanced glues out there, but yellow glue has worked wonderfully for us for years with a 0 percent failure rate.
Ed
ED!
That solves a mystery for me of long standing. Building head cabinets for my amps, I've been baffled on how to insert the front board face without using cleats.....which does a lousy job anyway.
This folding business allows me to use biscuits to join everything correctly. Wow! Thanks.
Using a couple of coats of lacquer sanding sealer on the inside not good enough? Poly? I know that in experimental aircraft building, epoxy is used for bonding and it literally comes apart when exposed to moisture. So, the FAA accepts encapsulation with poly or epoxy varnish. The only approved aircraft glues are aerolite, weldwood, and resourcinol. Molecular bonds. Jeepers is this a speaker forum? Moving kinda far afield here.
I have an old Freud biscuit jointer that works, but that's all I can say about it.
I've got an Amish blade in the saw now, but intend to invest in a Forrest before I start any real projects. How you like this:
http://www.hostboard.com/forums/hbmc.../2010/05/2.jpg
Heston & Anderson?Quote:
Originally Posted by airboss
Boice Crane. As near as I can tell, between 1932 and 1935. 7.25 under the guides. 14" wheels. Those blade covers are Cast Aluminum! How they survived all these years is anybody's guess. Babbitt bearings.
You should see my wood lathes. I have no use for them, in fact if you'll pick them up you can have them, but they are Porter. A 16" and a 24". Came out of Paramount Studios workshop. In case you want to play Cecil B DeMille and make some Grecian columns. Feel like turning a hot tub? They are timber framed so the length is unlimited. One knife bar guide is 6' long. Line shaft operated with all that hardware. I'd convert them over to three phase with a variable frequency drive.
I think you need them. ;o)
Cool bandsaw. I have a couple of Walker Turners and a 36" Northfield. The Walker Turners are sweet little saws, but are pretty mundane looking. I've used only Forrest blades for 15 years. Ask for Tony, extension 313, mention me, and tell him that you love Led Zeppelin - you'll probably get free blades! I also feel that Forrest does by far the best sharpening job, although they are more expensive.
I know about the FAA's dislike of epoxy, and it's always puzzled me. I started out as a custom boat builder and there are a lot of old cold molded boats still out there. These days we build custom cabinetry and carbon fiber race car parts, and use epoxy every day. I would have considered epoxy ideal for our folded cabinet project, but it leaves a thick glue line where it saturates the wood - giving the illusion of an open joint.
My experience with balanced laminates is that you can never tell what is going to happen, and the cost of failure far outweighs the cost of caution for us. I've seen MDF veneered on one side cup like a cereal bowl, and other MDF with an unbalanced laminate stay dead flat for years. Encapsulation certainly helps, but wood expands and contracts with temperature as well as humidity, and about 9 times as much across the grain as with the length. How could 1/40th of an inch thick veneer move a 3/4" thick piece of MDF? Got me, but it does.
My point is that if I were putting 40, or 400! hours into a pair of speakers for myself, I'd throw an extra hour or two into veneering, and ideally finishing, the the inside of the box, particularly if the design had large panels without internal support.
Ed
Thanks again Ed. I'll do it your way. I'm going to try re-saw with the bandsaw. It will be fitted with a VFD and a 3 phase 1/2 horse motor. I have my doubts about getting a decent cut but it's worth a try. I'm not sure yet how wide the wheels are. It's setting at my Brother in Laws house in San Luis Obispo. About 7 hours away. I bought it out of an engineering lab at Cal Poly. I've seen it and it's beautiful but I didn't have the pickup with me that day.
I have about 500 BF of aircraft spar lumber that I bought for a project and never used. It's mostly 5/4. I intend to experiment with spruce baffles for guitar cabinets. I know I know, but this isn't Hi-Fi. Guitar cabs dance to a different drummer. Last time I made a cut on that lumber it was case hardened. That was 13 years ago.
I must have got the same set of ears you did :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Nipper