http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...ign/page15.jpg
Click on 'size' for a 39" height:
IKEA | Built-in kitchens | AKURUM/RATIONELL system | AKURUM | Corner wall cabinet frame
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http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...ign/page15.jpg
Click on 'size' for a 39" height:
IKEA | Built-in kitchens | AKURUM/RATIONELL system | AKURUM | Corner wall cabinet frame
Now why didn't you tell me this before?? LOL J/K Greg. I think they look like an excellent start for a lot of speaker cabinets. Hopefully Ikea doesn't see this or the price will suddenly go sky high for them. :)
Dont laugh , i have used ikea cupboards in the past as well as old dressers and cabs for speakers for experiments , some of my open baffle experiments were doors with simple t brackets ,during the housing boom there was lots of materials around,
now after the last thread about big boxes for the 604 i went to the city dump and almost picked two deep freezers with the compresors removed, but backed out as i needed to do some homework on the inside construction .(they had a strange smell)
one does need serious cabs for serious listening of course , but this is a cheap way to diy and experiment and learn .
Absolutely, I just couldn't believe how cheap these are. Both cost < two 5x5 ft shts. of BB ply around here and it doesn't take much $$$ even in new lumber to brace them and material for a finished top.
NEMA 5-12 (gasketed covers, welded seams) electrical control boxes make great cabs for shop or man-cave, ditto NEMA 4 - 4X composites if you can find them, though these days with so many folks selling metal for scrap I imagine they aren't too plentiful anymore.
GM
I suspect you'd double-blink at the price of NEMA boxes these days, heck, even NEMA 1s of any size are plum ridiculous...Quote:
Originally Posted by GM
Big attaboy on the IKEA tip! Just the ticket for those asking for flat-pack kits.
I double-blink at just about all prices these days......... :( I meant in terms of used since most (all?) city codes require new switches, etc. on major repairs/upgrades. Use to, folks would strip out any copper and toss the rest in the trash for us 'dumpster divers'.
Yeah, I just looked up where the IKEA store is locally and they confirm they keep the tall units in stock, so may just have to get a pair for a 511/421 'poor man's' 606 assuming the 421s are still OK after being 'attic/closet queens' for going on 41 yrs now.
GM
Hi, GM
I have been considering a 2-way with a HR9040 over something -- and this IKEA cabinet might be the something I am looking for.
I have an assortment of Altec woofers available, including 515B's, 416B's and 414Z's. I would like to use the 515's if possible as I love their upper bass articulation, but would like to get by without a subwoofer if I can. Given corner loading, how much reinforcement can I expect? Given my estimate of box volume of ~8.9 cubic feet for the 39" version, would tuning the box to 25 Hz get me relatively flat performance down into the 20's? I will probably use solid state amps and the room is about 17 x 13 x 8 feet.
Lastly, do you think liquid nails or some other construction adhesive would adequately secure any internal cabinet braces and reinforcements?
Thanks in advance.
Greets!
Yeah, the 515's extra 'snap' comes through even when XO'd at 500 Hz if HF loading caps are used. My room has no real gain to speak of, but a second 515 in a large enough cab fills in nicely, so assuming your room's construction is rigid/massive enough to get good corner gain (~ +6 dB of a theoretical +9 dB available), a corner cab tuned down around Fs should do well enough.
Note that a room's corner gain curve basically boosts much/all of the cab's BW to a greater or lesser extent, so to flatten it in room usually requires some EQ (often handled by the XO inductor's Dcr or additional series resistance), but always better to attenuate rather than boost.
Hadn't worked out its ~net Vb, but if it's this large, then it's not that far off from my ~10 ft^3 net/driver, so with the 515 up top and a 6" dia. x 6" long pipe or equivalent shelf vent down low ought to get you there with longer being required with shrinking net Vb.
One of the reasons I wanted to get at least one of these cabs is to find out if my preferred PL construction adhesive will work on whatever thin veneer/wallpaper lines its innards without pulling it free from the substrate or flat out melting it since the reason for using it is that I can run a thick bead on a board's edge, push it into place, wiggle it around to spread it/work out any voids and forget about it. For cross tie braces, I add a drywall screw to hold its ends in place to the ridge boards once they've set.
IIRC, Liquid Nails is ~the same product, so if you want to be the Guinea pig........ ;)
GM
A concern...the Ikea box is only 24" wide and those sides look big...is the front opening big enough?
I use Gorilla Glue...works well.
I have a pair of 60's 1203 cabs that were powered with the 90 watt amps, pre-biamp. They have 4 ohm drivers and an N800F 4 ohm crossover.
Am thinking Brad's vented dome trick in the 416/422 woofs and one of these 36x24 tuned to a 411 for sub? I have it all sitting here. Might be simple enough that I actually finish it.
http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/30187586
http://www.hostboard.com/forums/hbmc...2011/04/17.jpg
My first impession of the Ikea cabinet is How (regarding price)? A further look at the product details helps to answer, the backs, the largest part of the cabinet are painted fiberboard. Judging from the weight, I would bet 1/4".
This doesn't disqualify the Ikea as a very inexpensive start, a builder could reinforce the backs with a glued on piece of sheet goods, MDF would be a canidate to keep cost down. Construction adhesives like PL400, Liquid Nails, etc. should work on either the painted surfaces or the melamine parts.
I am atill amazed at Ikea's pricing, though. Their prices are probably 1/3 of what a lumber super-store would charge for the same quality of cabinet. A couple of years back, I saw a kitchen remodel done with Ikea cabinets and it looked very good, the builder had installed some excellent lighting and chosen high quality countertops and flooring. The Ikea cabs were not a detriment to the look. Durability might be questionable.
Aw c'mon, 1/4 isn't gonna weigh 40 pounds empty. It'll be more like 90 with a 418 811, and xover. Then a front baffle....Quote:
Originally Posted by westend9
States 3/4 in the spec section. Have a look. It's not real wood, it's plastic laminate. Not much is painted at all.
I am sure it won't be sturdy.Scrap wood for bracing is cheap.
I'm not talking about premium furniture. Just a cheapo DIY.
Per this (skip to page 77): http://onlinecatalog.ikea-usa.com/2011/range_brochure_kitchen/US/
I'm reading it as the rear side walls being 25" long and the depth from the door face to the corner joint being 25" also. This would make it around 36" across the extreme side corner joints making it ~ the same as my DIY kitchen corner cab. If I'm right, then the usable i.d. 'baffle' width = ~18", plenty wide enough for up to 16" frames. With the ~39" o.d. height it's a decent size cab.
Getting to the local Ikea store to confirm all this is a real pain though, so have no plans to do it anytime soon.
GM
90 miles away for me. I would probably have to have delivered.Quote:
Originally Posted by GM
I'm pretty confident I'm right, but at least mine's a local call, so will see if anyone can confirm the ~18" opening width.
GM
Ikea usually cross-reference in their catalogue to suitable doors in their product line-up. If you can find the doors that fit you will have the approx. opening size.
Marshall.
I assumed as much, but couldn't find it for the corner cab...............
GM
Found it at the very end listed as 82-83/84, but no page number, it lists a 17" wide door, so my ~18" actual opening is accurate enough.
GM
Yay!
Looking forward to a review/feedback on how well it worked out or if it took too much effort to make it a 'quiet'/leak free cab.
GM
Same thing up here $60
http://www.ikea.com/ca/en/catalog/products/30049364
OG, westend9 was talking only about the backs being 1/4"
The frame part is 3/4" but I bet he's right about the backs being thin. They always are.
GM if they been face down without any kind of rotation for 41 years.I guarantee they will need to be reconed.That's what happened to my woofers 416B's that I just bought recently for my project.Bill was having the darndest time getting them right.He determined that they must have been stored face down for a long time cause the coils weren't even close to being in the gap.Spiders were shot,he tried to bring them back "No Sale" with weight on the cone for about a week.So they had to be reconed.But they are identical WRT specs now.He sent a measurement analysis of the woofs when he sent them back. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by GM
My bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Weldon
Again only a few bucks to reinforce though.
Weather is getting better may actually buy a pair to investigate.
I'm tempted...
..no, no I'm not. My wife has reminded me that the speaker room is full and is now spilling out into another room so I guess these can wait. I do have another pair of 604-8H's that need a good home though...
:)
No argument and why I've periodically set them outside face up on concrete on a bright, hot, Summer day till they bottomed out, then drove them a bit with a ~Fs sine wave for awhile before storing them face up for awhile until the old Heathkit died some years ago. Anyway, got it fixed last week enough to work, though I doubt it's all that accurate now, but good enough to work the 421s once it gets hot enough outside and hopefully the ~seven years I've only rotated them in the closet was enough to keep them from needing a re-cone. If not, I'll sell them as is and they will be just one more thing I held onto for too long in a 'penny wise, pound foolish' way.Quote:
Originally Posted by Altec Best
GM
Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Weldon
There is no need at all to build these in the speaker room, maybe the kitchen is a much better place! ;)
And if I put a cupboard door on them she might think...
Hmm...
A.L.F. you're a bad man to put those ideas into my head :D
I emailed for the assembly instructions...shows the back to be "pegboard"
Still I think can be rescued.
http://www.hostboard.com/forums/hbmc...g?t=1302565741
Includes one of these only thing I can think of is if you want a female cabinet?
http://i139.photobucket.com/albums/q...g?t=1302565853
Anybody wants the PDF I can email it. I just made a couple jpegs from it.
Agreed, bracing is mostly just time and if the other panels are 3/4", then still well worth the price just to save having to layout, cut the angled panels and finish them. No clue what the b00bs are for.
GM
Unfortunately the hoped for dimensions were not there...