A7 cabinets and glue question

Hello,

What a very nice forum to find. I love vintage speakers

After listening to a buddy's A7s and prodding from another buddy, I ended up getting a pair of A7s last July. I noticed the other day that the glue on the top panels seems to be separating. I really like the original finish on these cabinets and don't really want to have to take them apart for fear of further damaging the finish.

What would be the proper way to fix this or should I leave it alone?

http://www.hostboard.com/forums/hbmc...2011/11/17.jpg
Here is one speaker

http://www.hostboard.com/forums/hbmc...2011/11/18.jpg
Another angle

http://www.hostboard.com/forums/hbmc...2011/11/19.jpg
Here is the other speaker. I'm not really sure if these are coming apart or if I am just noticing this.

http://www.hostboard.com/forums/hbmc...2011/11/20.jpg
I did replace the butchered port boards on the front and replaced the cut up grill cloth with this black cloth

http://www.hostboard.com/forums/hbmc...2011/11/21.jpg
Other than that they are quite nice.

I hope you don't mind lots of pics

Thanks

Tinpan

crud...it looks like we'll have to wait three days for me to post the pics. Anyway...

Edit - 3 days later and pics

You can upload your pics to a photo hosting site like Photobucket,Flickr,picassa,image shack,etc... and just copy & paste the [IMG] code into your post and it will post your photos.

The plywood is delaminating? Or is it MDF swelling? Or are they the 'Magnifient' furniture version?

GM

[QUOTE=tinpan;1828109]Hello,

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What a very nice forum to find. I love vintage speakers

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Welcome to the board !

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I noticed the other day that the glue on the top panels seems to be separating.

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Not good ! Seperating, I will guess plywood.Depending on the damage if it is just starting I would try to get a bunch of Titebond wood glue down in between the ply's and clamp it.

However if it is real bad, new cabs would be in order IMHO ! They will resonate like crazy with all the ply's flapping in the breeze !

If it is a seam separating, you could use one of these injectors (or similar) and inject from the inside of the joint. Clamp the heck out of it and, after the glue sets, caulk the joint with a construction adhesive (PL400, etc.). After this treatment, there will be little worry about the joint separating.

Holy $%!^ Whatever happened to the $1 plastic syringe?

GM

That might do the trick. If I can find a long enough clamp I might be able to get enough glue in there to hold it down.

I can't post a hyperlink which is where my pics are.

Let's see if this will work. Page 34 and 35 are where the four pics are

//public.fotki.com/Tagginbac/stuff/page35.html

ok that didn't work, I'm still in the 3 day penalty box

Oh yeah, it's the top seam that is seperating

just add http: to teh above link

Here's the link.

That should be easy to glue and reclamp. As has been said here or AK, clean any crap out of the joint using maybe a sheet rock knife (sometimes the blunt back side works best), you can wedge up the joint with door shims to get better access. To glue that up, just squirt carpenters glue in there, using a squeegie (maybe a cake spatula) near where it is still bonded to force into the crack, and find some pipe clamps, and wood standoff blocks to cinch it back together. If you have to buy clamps, they sell 1/2" kits which just require one 10' long "black" pipe which you cut in half for two 5' clamps (you only need one end threaded. They should have them at a hardware super store like Menards. I wonder if the triangular glue blocks inside along that seam have also let go.

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Originally Posted by tinpan

That might do the trick. If I can find a long enough clamp I might be able to get enough glue in there to hold it down.

I can't post a hyperlink which is where my pics are.

Let's see if this will work. Page 34 and 35 are where the four pics are

//public.fotki.com/Tagginbac/stuff/page35.html

ok that didn't work, I'm still in the 3 day penalty box

Oh yeah, it's the top seam that is seperating

just add http: to teh above link

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I can see your desire for a less intrusive fix, those are in good shape.

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Originally Posted by Panomaniac

Here's the link.

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Thanks Pano!

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Originally Posted by VolvoHeretic

That should be easy to glue and reclamp. As has been said here or AK, clean any crap out of the joint using maybe a sheet rock knife (sometimes the blunt back side works best), you can wedge up the joint with door shims to get better access. To glue that up, just squirt carpenters glue in there, using a squeegie (maybe a cake spatula) near where it is still bonded to force into the crack, and find some pipe clamps, and wood standoff blocks to cinch it back together. If you have to buy clamps, they sell 1/2" kits which just require one 10' long "black" pipe which you cut in half for two 5' clamps (you only need one end threaded. They should have them at a hardware super store like Menards. I wonder if the triangular glue blocks inside along that seam have also let go.

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Good advice, still the cheapest clamps to buy for the larger lengths and will do a good job.

That is what I still use but maybe it is going the way of $1/loaf bread, $10K cars, and cheap bluejeans.;) The last time I asked a pharmacist for a big syringe like these he was quite reluctant, at first. After a bit of conversation he probably realized I was just another crazy old skinflint and gave me one.

Looks like a pretty simple fix. :)

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Originally Posted by westend9

That is what I still use but maybe it is going the way of $1/loaf bread, $10K cars, and cheap bluejeans.;) The last time I asked a pharmacist for a big syringe like these he was quite reluctant, at first. After a bit of conversation he probably realized I was just another crazy old skinflint and gave me one.

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Here's what I was referring to, and still a $1 locally for me: Hobbico Hobby Syringe 12cc Curved Tip HCAR3785

I use to get large needle syringes from the veterinarian around the corner, but he retired/closed shop recently, so will have to find a new supplier if I need more. Most repairs I do can be done with a buddy's 'disposed' glucose hypos.

GM

Here's what I'd do if I didn't have clamps already. Remove the horn and mounting plate. Tape the inside of the open seam to prevent glue bleed thru and put the cabinet on its side. Squirt some glue in there and use a paper clip to distribute it. Add tape to the outside to prevent glue escaping. Turn the cabinet upside down and add some weight to the top (actually the bottom of the cabinet) like stones, brick, cinder block or WHY. Leave overnight. Remove tape, leave one more day before using. If you're not ever going to use the pipe clamps again, you just saved yourself some coin.

Menards: (No affiliation)
1/2" pipe clamp kit $5.00 each; 1/2" Pipe Clamp at Menards

1/2" schedual 40 black pipe, $9.00; 1_2inchX10' BLACK PIPE __ SCH 40 MPT ENDS at Menards

Edit; so about $10.00-$12.00 per clamp.

I haven't seen the pipe end clamps that cheap around here. Would get some for sure if they were 5 bucks.
EDIT: Oh look, Harbor Freight has them cheap.
1/2" Pipe Clamp

That's a good price for ends. I keep forgetting that with China in the market everything is now half what it was 10 or 20 years ago. So add the 10 feet of pipe for another 10 bucks and you're set.

A man can't have enough clamps. If the OP is on a budget, maybe he has a clamping strap that will work for this. Cal's idea is also a good one, glue and weight will get the job done. Picture below of my cabinets clamped and weighted after`gluing:

http://www.hostboard.com/forums/hbmc...2011/04/14.jpg

Thank you all for your advice. I think I am going to go the pipe clamp route. That way I can get the exact amount of pressure I need where I need it. First though I think I am just going to watch those spots and see if they get bigger.

I added pics to the first post so folks don't have to chase down links.

I have to say I am loving those 511 b horns.

Looked at the pictures you added and it appears that a previous owner may have tried to saw away some debris out of that joint, hard to tell but it looks like a cut edge on one of the vertical panels. After re-gluing the cabinet, it may require some filler. I've had good luck with Sherwin-williams resin based patching compound for items like this. Also, you should do something about the hole that is used for the speaker leads. These openings are not letting you get the optimum sound from your Altec's. If I could find it, I'd put up a link to the paint that matches the original VOTT grey, but I can't seem to locate it.
Good luck with your Altec's and welcome to the Forum.

I have not been able to find an exact color match in the Valspar paint line that is sold at Lowes (I like Valspar). Close, but not exact. I may take a horn apart and haul the throat adapter down to Lowes for a custom color match. Of course I have another set of horns that are not the same gray. There was certainly some variation.

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Originally Posted by Panomaniac

I have not been able to find an exact color match in the Valspar paint line that is sold at Lowes (I like Valspar). Close, but not exact. I may take a horn apart and haul the throat adapter down to Lowes for a custom color match. Of course I have another set of horns that are not the same gray. There was certainly some variation.

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I like Valspar paint, too.

On the color match, my experience is that it often is not exact. I'll admit that it been 10+ years since I've done it, Though.