DIY Crossover

Need some advice on terminals to use for my latest crossover build.

I want to run all the connecting wires underneath the board, leaving the components on top of the board. I thought of using binding posts for all the connecting points, but it becomes very expensive, as I will have 10 connection points.

Then I thought to use brass threaded rod.........I can just put a nut & washer on the bottom & on the top I could put a washer with a brass domed nut to give a better finished look.

What is the opinion of the conductivity of brass for these connections? I know copper would be better, but I have found that impossible to source.

I would normally use a terminal block from Mouser (538-38780-0110) which is zinc chromate plated screw terminals in a thermoplastic housing.

Any thoughts appreciated,

John

Why not just drill a hole through the board and run your wires from under the board up to your components on top and directly solder them to the components? That way you will have the least amount of connections in the signal path and it would be the cheapest, maybe even the best looking. Just a thought....

I use the hole in board idea with tempered masonite. But I don't like soldering to copmponents, so I use these they are cheap. Note: you can actually solder a wire thru the rivet holding the lug, leaving the lug open to wire up with.

If needed a solid wire can be looped thru the rivet holes of several lugs and soldered, making all lugs common connection.

Terminal Strip 3 Lug 2nd Lug Common Horizontal package of 5 , Amplifier Power Accessories, P-0301H From EastWave.com

http://www.hostboard.com/forums/hbmc...2012/02/20.jpg

OG they look like the ones Altec used huh ? Only shorter.

Addendum: Or like these if you need to mount them.Scroll down to bottom of page.

http://www.tubesandmore.com/scripts/...LS&PAGE=SUBCAT

These? 5 Pcs Electric 5P Barrier Terminal Strip Block 300V 30A | eBay

Search Terminal Block on Ebay for many other types.

Yeah AB. Those were real common back in the old day. Everything from TV's and radios to some military stuff was wired that way.

Maybe I didn't explain correctly.
Yes, I will drill holes in the mounting board, route all the wires underneath & connect all the components direct to each other.

The problem arises when you get to the terminal block for the connections of all the crossover wires & the outputs to each of the drivers, ie; to the bass, mid & treble.

So, instead of the terminal block I was thinking brass threaded rod with nuts top & bottom. Sort of like a home made version of a binding post.

A quick search says that you want silicon bronze fasteners which are for electrical use and are 98% copper. Something like this;
** AARON'S SILICON BRONZE FASTENERS, bolts, nuts, washers **

Also use dielectric grease on mechanical connections.

For each connection to a woofer, L pad, horn driver, etc connect a wire to the circuit board as follows:
Drill two holes about 0.5 inches apart . Holes should be sized to be a snug fit. Feed the wires from the back side of the board through the first hole and back down through the second hole. Solder the wire as you do for the other parts.

http://web.me.com/donaldpatten/

Don

Very informative web pages Don--thanks for the link. I enjoyed both the X-OVER and the DIY page--and learned a lot about crossover delay. I see you used both Dayton and Solen caps. Any preference? Did you notice any changes after capacitor "burn in" (or do you consider that to be a myth)?

I've found the solution.
Connect to input, bass, mid, treble on top. All wiring connects underneath.
Thanks for everyones input

I have listened with small bypass caps on both the LF and HF XO sections and did not find any difference.
I like the 1% tol available on the Daytons, to keep the delay line LC resonate freqs as close as possible to the design. If these freqs are off, it effects the time delay not so much the freq resp . If I let the cap values wonder , the freq/delay curve looks like the Rocky mts.
I have not found I needed a cap burn in , or any difference in sound Dayton vs Solon.

I had three 605As rebuilt by GPA and the free air resonate freq slowly drifted up from 22 Hz to 30 Hz; say a years time.
Could this be what the Golden Ears hear ?

Don