Have old pair of comp drivers...Mlynar (or similar name).
There's no positive or negative marking on the terminals, except a white dot.
Is this positive or negative?
Thanks.
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Have old pair of comp drivers...Mlynar (or similar name).
There's no positive or negative marking on the terminals, except a white dot.
Is this positive or negative?
Thanks.
I'd guess negative if I had to. Technically you should be able to go both ways with it and just put it to the one that sounds the best.
Remember that with amplifier output you are dealing with an AC (alternating current).. there is really no positive or negative. That white dot could more than likely be used as a reference.. as long as both channels are hooked up the same and the speakers are in phase you will be fine..Quote:
Originally Posted by atilsley
OK, got it...thanks.
Use a AA or other small battery. If connecting the white dot to the + on the battery while connecting the - to the other terminal creates a forward cone movement, the white dot is the +
Not with HF compression drivers. This test should only be performed on woofers.Quote:
Originally Posted by Cal Weldon
The driver is Emilar EA 175, Alnico....any good?
This article seems to suggest so.
Vancouver Audio Speaker Clinic - EMILAR HORNS AND DRIVERS
White would normally be positive, as black is standard for negative. Actually, there ARE positive and negative polarities in drivers, as they drive the diaphragm in specific directions...
Normally positive voltage should move the diaphragm towards the user.
In the old days, some defined positive as moving away from the magnet. But the diaphragm is on the rear, so this was out of phase.
I beg to differ on the AA battery test, as I have done it thousands of times with no damage. I use to do Pro audio. Not a good idea on ribbons though.
OTOH, since the voice coils are often not equidistant from the user- the horn's coil is usually farther back-sometimes out of phase works better. The listening test should be the final judge.
Emilar drivers were designed by Jonas Renkus, former Altec guy. Yes, he and his son Algis, and now his grandson, are the Renkus in Renkus-Heinz. Algis was also involved in Radian.
Thanks
Can you comment the quality/performance of the emilar?
Some articles I've read suggest they better'd jbl...?! Massive alnico magnet may help.
Kindly
If Alien is worried about too much travel, maybe remove the horn, remove the screws from the diaphragm, hit it with the battery and poof, watch it jump right out of the gap. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Guy
Kidding of course.
Sound good. Not like either Altec or JBL. Don't DARE say "better than JBL" if you post over al Lansing Heritage.:D The sun rises and sets JBL over there.Quote:
Originally Posted by atilsley
Better is subjective, same point as I was trying to make in another thread.
Ha, yes...Note I didn't say better'd than Altec...!?!Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Guy
Makes me want to go over there and yell Klipsch are better than JBL's... then just kick back and watch the storm grow. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Old Guy
Thanks for the correction, OG.Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Guy
How did you conduct this test on comp drivers? Is it an audible test "click" that you listen for, since you can't see the diaphragm?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Alien_Shore
Actually with the back cover off you can. Test clicks are often a quick and dirty way to check continuity. An AA battery puts a miniscule amount of power to a driver. A 9v battery may not be wise.
As a follow up- most common colors are red or white for positive, black or green for negative.
FWIW, if the driver's on a horn I use 9V to 'pop' it and with a piece of TP 'flapper' taped to dangle over the horn mouth, whichever terminal moves it out with the [+] lead is positive. Otherwise, a 1.5 V with a 'flapper' taped over the driver 'mouth'.
GM
Good point GM. With the horn loading a 9v would be less of an issue. I always had AA's in my Maglite, so used them.
Brilliant idea for testing the polarity of a hf-driver while still on the horn. Thanks for sharing it with.Quote:
Originally Posted by GM
Right, and a good way to check diaphragm condition because if it can't handle a ~5-10 W transient attack depending on its output impedance, its replacement time IME even if used in a HIFI/HT app.Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Guy
GM
- - - Updated - - -
You're welcome, but can't claim credit for it. I learned it from my childhood DIY audio mentor/next door neighbor who in turn had learned it while in the military and no doubt in my mind that it dates to the earliest days of electrically amplified sound reproduction and maybe even earlier in some other app such as for finding air leaks.Quote:
Originally Posted by aditya
GM