I transcribed my Thread from CRX Resource over to this Board.
These clips are what it took me to install the D16Z6 into an 89 CRX.
Printable View
I transcribed my Thread from CRX Resource over to this Board.
These clips are what it took me to install the D16Z6 into an 89 CRX.
I did notice what I am pretty certain to be the water temp sensor on the back of the Si block having moved to the T-stat housing - a brown sensor now with a different connector....the wires will have to be spliced in as soon as I verify with the chilton's and my 90 Civic Service manual.
The VTEC Solenoid Deal - kinda a bad mix with an Si distributor. The Green VTEC Oil Pressure Valve Sensor sits cockeyed and protrudesd into the small two-prong connector for the distributor closest to the engine. Since it is no longer needed, only the upper grey connector VTEC Solenoid, I used a 7/8" open-end wrench and back out the sensor - then ground down a 1.25 x 10mm threaded bolt at the same depth of the pressure sensors depth (because it can only go so deep).....then I cleaned up the threads with a dye 1.25 x 10mm. It's improtant to clean the threads and spray it off with brake cleaner so that it dries and has no bits or pieces that can break off and enter your oil system! I took the old O-ring seal off the presure sensor - put it back in the holes gap for the seal - then used Nissan Gasket Sealant and put it over the facing sides of the washer I used and the modified Bolt. Perfect fit - brushed off silicone that flared out. Good to go. Put connector on VTEC Solenoid for wire to be extended - got from a D16Y8 engine - same connector - same as B16A also or F22B1 SOHC VTEC Accord engine.
The Injectors I just pulled off by backing off the fuel rail and removing the Z6 ones. Then pulled off some Si ones from a spare manifold, cleaned them off with parts cleaner - sprayed with brake cleaner and dried off. Looked good, seals were reuseable. Everything went right back in and put on the connectors. So not forget to reuse the Z6 injector housing that is one that engines harness. The Si harness fits easily in it.
Beleive it or the older plug wires work - but you they aren't meant too. You have to make them work. Plug wires have an inner and outer lip that goes over the plug well raised area. Since the newer SOHC VTEC's are smaller - the old inner lip actually can now be stretched over the outer lip. It's not smart but it seems to hold and didn't want to back off even when pulled on. Isn't smart because of water and such. But a good temp fix. I am not sure that the Z6 plug wires will work because the Si distributor is about 1.5 inches longer - Z6 distributor like all newer ones are snubby and create problems in wire lengths.
---------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------
The Tranny Bolt at the front top which has the Mounting bracket for the Harness - it stands in the way with the newer mounting point for Z6 and Y8 ??? sensor - I think Water Temp Gauge - forward most sensor though. See this picture of the Si Head and the Y8 Head (same as Z6 actually as far as sensor positioning). Notice the sensor migration towards the edge.
This meant I had to grind down the harness mounting bracket by 1" and in 1" - took a big cube out of it. But did the job perfectly. You need a stout grinder to cut into this stuff too - hardened bracket. Here's some pics of what I mean below.
For the Map I just strung the wires over to the TPS wiring and ran down the backside just like the Si harness. You want to keep everything as much the same as the Si harnesses stock routing. I encased the wires in some plastic sleeving I found from a rear bulb assembly in a car - I keep sleeving and conduit on hand from scrapped cars. You can get the stuff for nothing if you get it from junked new cars - like brand new.
The Water temp sensor that moved into the T-stat housing - I just matched the black with black and the other wire to it's corresponding wire as well. We'll see once I hit the schematics if it's the right one - Honda Monday to ask George for the manuals again.
The Coolant Bypass went pretty easy. I just routed the stainless hose up and over the fuel rail and down under the TB. If your using regular hose - by chaff protector or sleeving - looks like spiral thick plastic. It will save you from catching your engine on fire. Hence why I also use stainless on the fuel lines when I can.
For the Throttle Body - since I didn't want the unheated fast idle of the Z6 Throttle Body from bypassing extra air raising my idle - because the coolant line was removed - I plugged it up. My gasket was fried (I dicked it up earlier) and I did the unholy and scrapped the it off, used paint prep grease remover, wiped it down and put the thinnest possible layer of Permatex on it to made a silicone gasket (I hate doing it, but I can't wait a week for friggen honda). Did a good job at it, and you have to plug the TB Plate air bypass holes up. If I has wanted it permanently plugged I would have ran to Napa and bought some engine epoxy....but I decided to see if this would work instead and who knows I might not want it plugged in the long run??
With all the wires ran, to the firewall on the left side of the harness - it leaves you with 6 wires:
3EA TPS
2EA Purge Solenoid
1EA VTEC Switch
I plan on getting a Honda connector from the junkyard tommorrow and splicing up these wires to it so I can remove the engine harness completely. I can know remove the firewall Sensor rack that contained by old map and purge solenoid - cool!
For the VTEC Solenoid - I still need to run a Power Relay (for safety and not to burn up my Send switch - was told it drew a lot of power???)...I am going to wire it up somewhere off the left passengers strut tower area - before the engine harness diconnect - that will be an extra ignition pwoer and ground wire - and the relay disconnect connector also - like those in alarm setups out fo the box (power door and power window relays.)
Here are also some other miscelanous pictures of the project so far. The distributor, valve cover, Head Water Outlet are polished - header already turned and was polished (this is what it would look like in three weeks anyways).
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12633363&p=46948857&Sequence=0</img>
Here you can see what I was saying about the plug wires and the lips. The blue outline underneath the inside lip of this plug wire is acting as the outside lip...in fact the Z6 and Y8 plug holes are so small....Our plug wires won't fit unless you stretch the inner lip over the outer lip....tricky huh!
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12633363&p=46948858&Sequence=0</img>
This is that washer trick - the Si distributor is actuall offset 10 degress Clockwise (CL). You have to rotate the distributor and brace it with a washer here...more on this later.
It looks like if it were rotated any more then the leg with the washer on it would hit the sensor underneath it??
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12633363&p=46948859&Sequence=0</img>
This pic Shows the new location of the Water Temp Sensor for the ECU. You'll need this connector. Ironically the Y8 uses this same sensor in the same spot - swappable (that's what I did - mine was broken).
You can see where I routed the Map Sensors 3 wires down to the TPS wiring where they merge into one single bundle and trace downwards.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12633363&p=46948860&Sequence=0</img>
Here you can see where I Plugged the hole where the green VTEC Oil Pressure Switch used to be.
Also notice how I routed the coolant bypass above. Tricky ain't it! There will be areas of rubbing at the top were it crosses the wiring conduit and may rub the fuel rail.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12633363&p=46948862&Sequence=0</img>
This pic shows the VTEC Solenoid, New D16Z6 loations for the Map Sensor and Purge Solenoid, The repositioning of the fuel hose - I believe it may be very near the same length - but I had to make a new one and lost the old, Original Si Fuel Line to Filter - can be Si or ZC - same line, and again relocated water temp sensor - Si's was originally the two-bullet-connector connector on the back of the SI block.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12633363&p=46948863&Sequence=0</img>
Looks good doesn't it! That's not even polished with the buffing wheel yet!!
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12633363&p=46948865&Sequence=0</img>
These are the 6 wires required to be extended or routed at the Passenger Side strut tower area. A connector is needed to hook these up to - this will allow you to remove the engine harness as one peice - not jsut throw it aside attached by some friggen wires. And thus harness can be removed with the engine!!
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12633363&p=46948866&Sequence=0</img>
Notice the differences in these two heads. The Top is the Si/DX and the bottom is the Y8 - same positioning as Z6 though. See how the sensor migrates to the front of the head (exhuast side)....this gets in the way of that mounting bracket for the harness off the top front tranny bolt.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12633363&p=46948867&Sequence=0</img>
The bottom bracket is an Si harness with the original bracket.
The top harness has the modified bracket - 1" down, 1" to front. Basically a big chuck.
The above red line shows the actual position of where the bracket would dance around the connector if mounted to the engine.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12633363&p=46948868&Sequence=0</img>
Again that's what it looks like modified - I traced it again to show you it mounted and the abvious conflict otherwise uncut.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12633363&p=47027545&Sequence=0</img>
This is a Clutchmaster Stage 3 Kevlar Clutch Disc on the left
Stock 98 Civic EX Clutch Disc on the right - same design 90-00 all the same.
---------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------
Well I got the Wiring attached to a connector.
The engine I cleaned thoroughly and polished header 4-2 section.
Tranny - I pulled apart and inspected synchro's, cleaned magnetic catch tray, and resealed. Tranny is now cleaned, lubed T-out bearing.
Couldn't put on flywheel and clutch kit - I need to take engine to get crank pulley removed....will do tommorrow - then put on the driver's mount bracket. Shield is in way and pulley is blocking it.
Made a list of everything to put together a parts pile - CRX engine compartment was stripped for other plans...now piecing back together.
---------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------
Here's some pics of how the CRX Mount Bracket has to be fitted on the D16Z6...notice the mods having to be made - cutting the covers.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47349151&Sequence=0</img>
Bottom Cover's Modifications
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47349150&Sequence=0</img>
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47349149&Sequence=0</img>
Top Cover's Modifications
A little info on why the cover doesn't fit just right. The Mount is your old DX, Si or HF Mount Bracket - you can actually change this mount bracket out without pulling the bottom cover - having to pull off the pulley - but getting smart and prying back the cover with the 10mm bolts removed. But it's kindof a pain....even though possible.
The D16Z6 Mount Bracket has a longer top bolt, and the metal jets out above the timing belt covers - but ours do not....and therefore this is the reason for the opening.
Now to do it right - you should cover this, because any water on the timing belt could cause it to slip! But then again, a lot of people leave it open?
Reuse your old bolts! The bottom bolt will be the same, but the top D16Z6 Bolt is too long!
These are pics of my Solid Rear Mount that I ordered to cure my engine slop.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47349147&Sequence=0</img>
Place Racing Solid Rear Mount
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47349148&Sequence=0</img>
Profile of the two.
I got to installing the flywheel, torquing down to 87 ft-lbs, and the plate and disc positioned, but for the life of me could not line up the pilot bearing and the disc center by eye (??? Done it before, must be getting senile). I have a mainshaft from a busted 98 DX Civic tranny waiting in a junkyard - but some guy who wanted a p75 ECU (Stormin Matt) has promised to send this money, due-in 4 days ago, and has not written back to any of my emails....so I have a small pile of parts waiting because they were to be all purchased at once...and his ECU is the most expensive of it...had to get that off my chest (Matt???).
Tommorrow I'm gonna get that mainshaft from that 98 DX tranny and line up the clutch and install that Si Tranny.
I was able to verify the stock Si fuel line will fit right up to the Z6 motor - same goes for the throttle cable - mounts right up like it was the Z6's own.
I also checked the wiring extension of the map sensor and purge solenoid - will work perfect like planned - still have to attach other side of connector.
So the Motor is held by the driver's mount and a log underneath the pan for the times being! Shame.
[This message has been edited by NC_Rex (edited May 15, 2001).]
You don't use anything d16z6 as far as mounts and mount brackets go!
The only mount bracket that is on the engine is the driver's mount bracket.
The others are located on the tranny - and because it's your old tranny, you reuse your old engines mounts.
I can take pictures of these mounts....but it's common sense if you looked at your engine and noticed where these mount brackets bolted up.
So it goes:
Reuse all your old Mounts
Reuse all your old Mount Brackets - having to change the driver's side d16z6 mount bracket for your old engines mount bracket.
---------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------
Well I started out today picking up this hunk of useless scrap from the junkyard for gutting the mainshaft and using it as my allignment tool. The best you can get - why settle for plastic that doesn't do the job nearly as well.
$25 Bucks and hauled it back tot he car, gutted the tranny, pulled out the mainshaft, rubbed the rust down with hands, sprayed it off with brake cleaner to remove the oils and painted it with some Rustoleum I had lying around.. about 1 hours after picking up the tranny from Shipping and Recieving and it was there ready to go.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47403837&Sequence=0</img>
98 DX Civic D16Y5 Tranny - The recipient transaxle for my allignment tool... Notice the big hole! Someone hit this Honda so hard it shoved the engine into the Master Cylinder!!! Ouch!
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47403836&Sequence=0<im g>
This is the Mainshaft out of the 98 DX Tranny. Notice it's bent...haha.
The bottom small part fits to the pilot bearing, and the splined area above it fits into the disc - and with the pressure plate 6EA bolts loosen, the disc will move around until you find the pilot bearing hole, keep it stuck there and tighten these bolts - do them all the same tighness or the fingers won't share the same pressure and will wear the disc faster...20lbs recommended - but just do it tight with a 12-pt box-end wrench.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47403835&Sequence=0</img>
This is something I should have seen cming, I knew the difference was there...hell I polished the thing, but just didn't think about the hsoe at the time.
See the picture below and you'll get the reasona s to why the stock hose won't work - and forget trying to bend it or modify the stock one.
I am not even sure the Z6 will fit it - but notice how well of a path it forms - I am thinking a simple section of univeral hose will fix this.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47403834&Sequence=0</img>
This is the stock Si Heads Hose (which the Si and DX have the same heads...something not many people know - therefore saying the DX Hose is the same).
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47403832&Sequence=0</img>
Here you can see a couple more trouble spots.
I had to relocate the Clutch Cable Bracket to the VTEC Housing far corner bolt. This has to be temporary because it's not a firm mounting point. Your best off making something that comes straight up off two manifold/head flange nuts...something custom. You cannot put the bracket off the 10mm bolts because these are not regular bolts and you'll see what I mean at the bottom of the bolt - it's flared.
The other thing I notice was that the D16Z6 manifold Throttle Cable Bracket tilts the cable toward the firewall...which in the Civic EX and Si is where it heads to the passenger side of the Mast Cylinder. But in our CRX's and Civic's it heads to the Passenger's side after passing first in front of the Master Cylinder and then once again behind it. With our cable in position with the Z6 bracket, it bend the cable very oddly - I looped it around the Master Cylinder for the time being....but I am thinking of either:
(1) Swapping out the Z6 manifold mounted bracekt for the Si's...
(2) or Swapping out the Si Throttle Cable for a Z6 one...they mount the same on the pedal and I beleive the keyway int eh firewall is also the same...will see. The Z6 cable makes more natural sense anyways (as does a lot on this engine over our years).
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47403831&Sequence=0</img>
Another picture of their intended paths.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47403830&Sequence=0</img>
What she will look like when completed.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47403828&Sequence=0</img>
And why this engine stock will be a whole hell of a lot faster then stock Manifolds and I/E...not to mention the way it handles the torque.
I plan to run her with a Zdyne ECU when I get the money up...it's one of the first things I am planning once it get to see my returns on things I've been selling.
For the time being I have the Fields SFC and a regular plain-jane Si ECU that will run her. Should do really well.
Will be picking up another D16Z6 - drove this car with the engine I'm getting last night in a 93 Civic Si HB. Strong engine. Was impressed - but I did notice it has the lack of pull feeling. I contribute this to the fact that I drove the two GSR's that same night. Kinda threw me off. I feel that if the compression was raised, and if the crappy exhuast manifold was replaced with true stepped headers and had a better set of cams, that the car would have been able to hold with the stock GSR in the Civic. In my CRX with my mods and the Fuel management and stuff...I might have been able to keep somewhat up with the other GSR..at least by a couple of lengths...but I kinda doubt it...kinda hard to say. I'll have to see once the CRX is registered and has state tags.
She'll be fast with just the bolt-ons, no doubt.
---------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------
"Can you use the older crx si throttle body with the newer civic intake manifold? The throttle body I got with my engine isnt in good shape plus I want to keep it as cheap as possible. "
I want to say no and I cannot remember the reason why? Let's see:
Map OK
EACV OK - at least I think ports match up
Purge OK
Yeah I think it will work, but I thought there was a line that was needed.
Your gonna need to try and see if the Throttle Bodies line up........
You know, why is it any more expensive to use the stock D16Z6 Throttle Body - I don't understand why people say this? What is expensive about it. I'd think friggen up the throttle body gasket is more expensive to me. Can you explain please.
From what I remember looking at the map - no you cannot Tee a line...It needs to be before the throttle plate.
Use any new map sensor - any of the map sensors mounted on the TB's are the same!
Same thing goes for those purge solenoids.
92-95 Preludes except the H22A do not have this.
The newest Accords do and same goes for all the newest civics.
The Civic DX and Del Sol S 92-95 with the D15B7 does not, but the civic VX with the D15Z1 does, and all the SOHC VTEC do, the B18B1 94+ Integra's do.
If you somehow managed to use a D16A6 Si TB on this manifold, then yes you can use that Map line and all your external sensors on the firewall from your CRX.
The Purge Solenoid - well just Tee a line off the manifold plenum (body) past the TB plate.
I don;t have these kinds of extra parts sorry.
Yes the D16A6 (Si) and D15B2 (DX) are the same and possibly the HF D15B6 as well....they swap right over onto the D16Z6 crank as a crank pulley swap. But you will need to run the pulleys on the accessories - like your AC and alternator and if your a civic sedan - your power steering pump. You also now have the option of using your older alternator, but you have to use the D16A6 (SI) or D15B2 (DX) mount brackets for the alternator. However, if you have the newer alternator, use that - all the electrical plugs are the same...but they are newer and better alltogether - just take of the 14mm end-nut and swap out the pulley. If you can't figure it out, take it to a local stereo installation shop, and ask them who it is that rebuilds their alternators - they will give you their rebuilders address....take it to him - he'll show you or alltogether pull it off for you.
But definately don't buy new parts...that's sickening to think of those prices for something so ridiculously small and common and to mention it's pocket material.
Installed 4ga Wire from the starter and Main Fuse Box to the rear of the car - looped it underneath the heater core in the compartment for a splice in power network block...made use of a lot of plastic protective sleeving...the spiral stuff.
Pulled out Middle Dash...removed cetner vent piece and used Black Permatex Gasket Maker and filled in the area where the clock used to go to be replaced with my Fields SFC VTEC COntroller. Will look really good once I figure out how to brace the backside of the controller. Wiring is already in place...see picture of premade Fields Adapter Harness.
The VTEC wiring still needs ot route to a 20A Power Relay (basic Honda Relay found in Accessory Fuse Panel)...I have to make a backing or get a piece of billet alluminum and bend up a bracket and tap it for the relays...there will be additional added later on.
Removed the heater Control Panel...will be in trash soon...I am going to replace with a simple switch panel in the glovebox and remount the heat selector there as well. Glove box will be simply a Cover that pops down like normal...but with a panel behind it....I may place a CD Player back there as well...remains to be seen.
Will be picking up a Civic HB 88-91 Center Console Cover and MEtal Bracket....This with my 95 Teg GSR Bottom Console piece and Ebrake Cover and Leather Arm Rest...will be set in this CRX once I figure out the modifications to installing...it has been done on the 4G Civic Site by a cool civic owner - Eric, he's knows a lot of 4G stuff too. 4G Civic Site
---------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47829886&Sequence=0</img>
Here's the pic of the newly added passenger-side engine harness connector. Notice how their no longer is a harness that goes onto the firewall...you cannot see the lack of a map sensor or purge solenoid here...but it's relocated onto the D16Z6 TB and manifold.
This connector is a 14-pin connector from a 92 Prelude S. It houses the 3EA Map, 2EA Purge, and 1EA VTEC solenoid wires. I chose this connector in the event I would need to add more wires for running the actual D16Z6 P28 ECU...additional 5 wires would be needed.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47829888&Sequence=0</img>
This picture isn't that great...see the cetner vent below with the permatex around where the clock used to be. I will later, once it dries to a solid silicone consistency, cut it out for the Fields SFC-VTEC Controller, and make a custom support bracket from behind.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47829890&Sequence=0</img>
You cans ee here where I cut up through the vent housing (will later add a grommet) and this is the wiring for the Fields SFC-VTEC COntroller. The Temp controls are being taken apart and modifed for repositioning into the glove box as a switching set for a few functions with temp knob selector...head unit may go there is clearance is avail.
The center conolse metal housing supprot is to be replaced with a Civic Hatchbacks 88-91, and will be modified for the lwoer half of a 95 GSR Center console, ebrake cover, and arm support in between the seats.
---------------------------------------------
---------------------------------------------
"By any chance is there a way to get the spring pin out thats holding the shifter linkage in?"
...If you mean the pin in the linkage...the jsut use a 12mm Tranny Bolt that holds the bellhousing to the tranny casing - in the middle. The diameter of the bolt is the same as the pin and use a hmmer on it..works great.
...If this is not what you man, please emphasize because I must have misunderstood.
"My intake manifold has different numbers but same format on the area you described and the block says it's from 93."
....Mine I beleive is P30 HF-2...but I'll check again.
"Hey NC_REX, if you have any extra mounts that I can use and they are in decent shape or if you can find some that would be considerably cheaper than the ~$60 Honda wants for them I'd really appreciate it."
....Hey I have bad mounts too. What I did was find a normal Civic HB and take it's dirver's-side mount. I bought it for $20 used...was in good shape. Your best mounts will probably be from a DX or DX automatic...a lot less engine flex at the torque mounts in an automatic.
....You won't have to worry about the front mount if you buy a solid rear mount like I did. Your engine will never rock, there will be slight vibration and the cost is $75 and will never go bad on you. It's the Place Racing Rear Mount I bought.
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47349147&Sequence=0</img>
This mount will cause a little bit of vibration underneath 1200 rpm. And the vibration around idle is solid mount feeling..but it's worth the gains. The engine will have a lot more ability to get and and leave since they mounts won't be taking up the torque.
Call Place Racing at (626) 334-3345 (california) and ask Gil for a price on part number BUM-04D, Rear Mount for 88-91 Civic.
Then just get that Driver's Side Mount used and you'll have everything for under $100.
"Same goes for a radiator although I'm probably going to go with an alumminum one for a mere $419 from summit racing and its a direct bolt in, no mods needed."
...If you want a regular replacement radiator...you can get a CSF make from Radiator's.com - overnight if you purchase via Credit Card!
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47968607&Sequence=0</img>
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47968603&Sequence=0&re s=high</img>
<img src=http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?u=1650131&a=12708072&p=47968605&Sequence=0&re s=high</img>
These radiators go for $108, plus shipping, and are bronze..no plastic at all. I got one for my wife as a replacment radiator. It's not a performance radiator like a fluidyne unit...but it's more cost effective, and radiator's.com offers a lifetime waranty on there's.
"Can you explain why getting a Fields VTEC controller is better than an RPM activated switch? I am just wondering since they essientially do the same thing."
...It's not any better except that the RPM Switches run off of Dip Switch selectors that are selectable for every 200 rpm..not 100 like the fields unit. You also get Map manipulation control...the fields unit adds or subtracts on the voltage output signal of the map, and sends this manipulated signal to the Computer...and it can be set for every 1000 rpm - and the values are interpollated to graduate betweent he 1000 rpm valves. Basically this function allows you to increase or decrease the fuel to the engine by +/- 30%...and it also features a rich or lean light...which will tell you when something is really wrong (kinda useless for any tuning purposes...you have to have your engine running like sh!t to have it flag these lights). You also have RPM and Speed displays...and they are very very fast to display.
But the RPM Switch does the same thing. I saw them for $40 in the most recent Summit Catalog. But the Fields SFC-VTEC Controller is around $300 I think. I bought mine a while back...can't remember.
The Distributor mounting will go like this. on this your going to have to hold the distributor to the engine and while it's running, move the distributor while someone else has the timing light on the crank pulley with the three-red marks lining up on the TDC's plastic cover's pointer...timing light set to 18 degrees with the lights dial setting knob. So just mvoe the distributor (typical) till the middle red line up. Then mark the distirbutor with a marker or metal etch (drag a knife on the alluminum). Turn everything off and make you mounting modifications.
My mods were going to be kinda hard since I modified the distributor incorrectly due to bad circulated information. You should be able to ntoch the top of the distributor leg to the backside and hold it with a large washer. Notch out the backside one too, and the third one will be held down by a large washer.
I'll take a picture of a distributor and the head and what needs to happen here, well soon.
This is where I am right now as of 15May01...after copying this thread over from CRX Resource...
Axles still need to be installed - awaiting on engine run test - which is awaiting on a battery box and 2EA 100A CB's for the remote battery setup.
Also silicone boot on #4 cylinder plug wire is torn partially off - was arcing on another car so I need to replace these with a new set as well - $100 bucks gone for a set of 8 mils.
Once CRX is running, I still have to establish Plates, registration and insurance...quite a bit there too!
...Will have some pictures of the JDM front end minus bumper - mugen 88-89 front bumper. Everything is primered and it still needed body work bad!! But I primered the front clip because I needed to drive it since my Civic is Fried - bummer.
Damn and thank you NC_Rex. (Ami look no further i think i found some info on SOHC vtec's hehe). I havn't read the whole thing tottaly but i'll get around to it, thank you again NC_Rex!
BTW, what are the estimated 1/4 mile for a 4th gen with the Sohc Vtec? anyone know?
------------------
89 black Si, STS #7
More suspension mods than you can shake a stick at...
My car ran a 15.42 recorded with the stock 89 Si engine (CRX). It was running a 15.1 from what I could tell(guestimate)...if I had a G-Pro meter I would have known for certain (after stage-3 clutch, lightened flywheel, other mods on the 15.1 guess were added after the 15.42 run).
With this engine, I had heard from jipile of Ricky Crows old board, that the crx really flies with this engine! And I drove a 93 Si Hatchback and it felt fast stock but not really a lot of pull. With the lighter car, and the cam being a little less agressive then the Si, I figure I'll be running, and this is without an engine mods, about a 14.5 in the quarter. And this is street tires like before. If the ECU were to be rechipped or programmable like the Zdyne and a Cam from say Bullfrog....with the engine tuned in right I should be able to break 14's no problem. Nathan Tasukon (sp?) built a fast street NA D16Z6 in his 93 Civic DX Hatchback...wish I knew what he did, but he went through Group5 Motorsports and I am wanting to give them a call and see how feasable an engine build is for that engine - something slight like adjustable cam gear, copper low CR gasket, Cam, and mild headwork.
I really feel this engine suffers from low Compression. It jsut doesn't feel, even the Si engine, like it had enough power...and I have been told that these JDM SOHC engines like the Si are powerful because of the compression increase. Not only this, but there was a guy in town that built an Si engine with a cam, pistons, rods, and a thousand worth in headwork, and they said that thing was wicked fast. He later sold of that CRX and I have been searching for it ever since unable to find it - the bonehead he sold it to has no idea of what's in the engine. I could probably wait till he blows it up and buy the head for $50 bucks form him...hahaha!
Compression and fuel is what engine builds are about. However you need a good ECU to run it...or good program...or a custom program and you need feedback from the engine running which means gages and guess or a dyno...so your kinda stuck when it comes to raising compression by more then 4 points or so.
Anyways, I'm kinda running on about this.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/View?...equence=0</img
My setup is the following:
4-2-1 RSR ZC Headers
Tanabe 2.5" Exhuast, Japan only
Gutted Cat, straight-pipe soon
will have Magnecor 8.5mm Wires
Densor Copper or NGK standard
TB coolant bypass
PCV Blowby Breather Vent Line.
Stage 3 Clutchmasters Clutch
12lb Lightened Steel Clutchmaster's Flywheel
VTEC Controller and SFC control
3.something" HKS 90-91 CRX SiR Super-Mega Powerflow Intake System
Spoon Front Strut Bar, Spats Rear
Illumina Struts, Tein Coilovers, Misc 70/700 Springs - suspension too hard, bought used!
SiR Rear Sway 14.5mm (+1mm)(really needs to be 18mm)
Misc Front Sway from JDM Donor Car - 20mm (+4mm)(really needs to be 22mm)
PIAA Nakajima 15" Rims 195w Rubber
...This is the same setup that gave me the fast Si....however I was running it with a very good ECU - the ZC DOHC PM7, but come to find since I was burning oil, the ECU's ignition advance (beause the ZC is a higher compression = earlier ignition advance tables) that I detonated at some point and lifted the head gasket b/w my #2 and #3 cylinders. Oil control rings were also about shot - which is why I didn't drive it much at the end in the fall - 212,000 miles!
For a typical CRX that runs a 15.8 with an Si....I would have to say the SOHC VTEC would give them a 15.4~15.2....and that is only a guestimate. I need to see how well this one runs to make a good judgement on the motor and how well the VTEC makes up for the Si engines lack of top end - kinda understand, and this SOHC VTEC will be running just the Si ECU with VTEC controller.
[This message has been edited by NC_Rex (edited May 16, 2001).]
Alright I just got the upper radiator hose today. I'll have pictures of it on the car later and the pics of the hose itself.
Here's the specs:
It's a $12.00 hose new from any maker (prices may vary slightly) of the following models:
...and it's from a V-8 too, ain't that some shit..
....[edit] nope....I put on the engine and it is as big as a B-series hose! go figure...back to hunting again.
---------------------------------------------
Well I roughed up the front x-member and painted it twice over, got my missing bushings, and through that back on...will need a front-end allignment here soon.
Still need new sway bushings...mine are bad!
Got other Headlight connector for SiR lenses - was in process of soldering on...
Compared Half-sized 92-95 Civic radiator in engine compartment.
Compared Intercooler...figured out location for it and modifications needed down the road - and possible bumper extension - a whole other deal.
Put terminals on Battery. Still need two wingnuts...and a fire extinguisher if things get ugly.
Bought a 200A CB...much money - $40 bucks! Need to mount this.
Took like 80 pics of the car and various this and that. Will post tommorrow.
[This message has been edited by NC_Rex (edited May 18, 2001).]
Well having measured the requirements for the upper hose:
37 OD
29 ID
I went searching again, looks like this time the best fitting one I could locate off this goliathe wall of hoses belonged to:
an 89 Geo Spectrum 1.5L Turbo, Lower Radiator Hose
...your only going to need a section of the hose...and before you buy this, I am going tonight and verifying it has enough length...it looked a wee bit short on one side, but I have to make for certain. Just picked up the hose a few minutes ago.
I also looked at the other Geo Lower Radiator Hoses - they are all the same number for the most part, and therefore I feel that this hose would probably also work. I am going to have to take mine to the junkyard to make certain here in a little while.
arggghhhh...friggen Honda D-series hoses...still about 2mm off?? Hose goes on - but it slides on and off, no tightness to it.
I did however pull a 92 Civic D15Z1 lower hose, which is the same as the D16Z6 lower hose, and hopefully it works - looks like it should. Will see later.
Secrets of the D16Z6 swap revealed:
The upper radiator hose:
You can use the crx's lower radiator hose and by using the section measured from where the hose used to attach to the lower radiator neck end to however long it is from the upper neck on the radiator to the head. For me the end that used to connect to the lower radiator neck is put on the upper radiator neck the other end to the head. It is a tight fit but it worked for me. I suggest buying new lower radiator hose and replace the old hose since it will be easier now to replace it and cut your old hose to make sure it works for you as an upper radiator hose. Then you can get a new hose later and cut it the same way.
The Distributor:
This is how I was able to line up the marks on the crank with the ignition timing light to get the 18 degrees advanced from TDC. Thanks to NC_REX for his advice.
First dont bolt the distributor and have someone carefully rotate it with the motor running and have someone man the timing light to find where you need to mount it. Be sure to hold the distributor firm against the head.
This is how mine ended up.
The orientation is if you were looking at the front of the distributor cap with the head behind the distributor. As if on the passenger side looking toward the drivers side of the car.
I found that the top mount will have the bolt go thru it and go into the head. I had to modify the slot by shaving some metal on
the "roof" of the slot.
The right mount just misses the mounting hole completely so the bolt will go in and you can use the stock washer, but I recommend a thicker wider washer, and that will hold it in place.
The left mount covers up the mounting hole by a 1/8 of an inch or so, so I had to shave some of the metal off the right side of the mount to get the bolt to thread into the head. Again you will have to use a big washer to secure it down. But the stock washer will do temporarly.
Of course if you wanted to change the timing without the use of a tunable ignition system like a msd unit then you would have to modify the distributor mounts accordingly since the timing will be set.
I recommend shaving a little at a time and check its progress on the head to make sure you dont go too far.
Another tidbit of information:
The CRX's fuel injector connector's plastic housing interferes with the fuel pressure regulator on the d16z6 fuel rail. You will need to get the plastic housing from the d16z6 wiring harness and "make" your crx connectors wiring fit into it so it will bolt on with no problems. I didnt have any problems except with the stubborn 10 year old shape of the wiring and making it conform to a new shape.
Other than that its pretty straight forward. I noticed that you can use the CRX's lower radiator hose but its a tight fit since the thermostat housing on the d16z6 is angled higher.
Right now I'm breaking in my new act clutch but after 500 miles I'll see about the vtec and go from there. I plan to use an rpm activated switch with my stock ecu until I can go with the zdyne b16a one wire ecu conversion.
This swap is on a 91 crx si using the d16z6 engine, and intake manifold/ throttle body. Also using the stock crx ecu and crx alternator, crank pully, tranny, distributor, and a/c compressor.
These are my results and they may vary between differnent makes and models. I am providing this information so everyone else can get a good idea of what is going on, but be prepared to improvise if needed. I'll check back so if you have any questions.
Disclaimer : I worked 9 hours straight getting my car togather so I might have mispellings all over the place or some information might be confusing or I didnt provide enough info on something. I'll check it later after I get some sleep. Hope this helps. Later
Ryan
------------------
Fantastic
Wear that clutch in man, just drive for a day straight in and out of downtown... I gotta hear how everything works out.
I've never gotten the opportunity to go any further then the radiator hose because of other issues with people not paying for parts they bought from me - very delingquent - so when I do, soon, I'll be able to continue.
I just Thursday purchased $80 in Battery connectors and CB breaker and fusing stuff.
I still need the Moroso remote container setup. And I have the optima battery selected.
Then I have a couple of Gaskets to order for the Z6 head, but I am going to try and run it beforehand.
I am missing also my front sway bar links? No idea where they walked off too...but that's what happens when a car full of parts is sitting around for months on end you know.
Should be not too long from now. Car will be running. Then it will be the issue of having plates, tags and titlework with insurance done on it...money and more money.
Tell us how it goes Ryan.
<A HREF="http://www.optimabatteries.com/main.htm" TARGET=_blank>http://www.optimabatteries.com/main.htm
</A> http://www.moroso.com/catalog
I got a lot of money from parts sold today. So here soon the CRX should be running http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
Moroso Battery Box on Order. $120 with tax from a local V-8 place..hate that place with a passion! I got this box, despite the high price, because it's propylene or something, type of plastic that does not break easily. Also it's required for NIRA competition rules that have a completely sealed, mountable, and ventilated battery box for competition. And maybe someday I'll have a car that could compete or at least take to the track!
I have chosen to go with the Yellow-Top Deep Cycle Optima Battery for the simple fact that I may be having the alternator disconnected when I'm making passes at the strip, and it would really beat up the Red-Top Optima Battery...just 5lbs heavier. Also a possible loping or stumbling cam (idle)...if I come to this, might not allow the alternator to charge at stoplights...so it's more of an insurance deal to get the Yellow Top...still need to talk to a tech at this alternator rebuild shop for his opinion.
Here's specs on Optima Batteries, our Civic Power Requirements and Moroso Box:
>> Redtops <<
...Starting
http://www.optimabatteries.com/image...ter-family.jpg
34/78-1050
CCA (BCI 0?F): 750 amps
MCA (BCI 32?F): 980 amps
Capacity: 50 Ah (C/20)
Reserve Capacity: BCI:104 minutes
L 10
W 6.8
H 7.8
Weight: 38.8
75/35-925
CCA (BCI 0?F): 650 amps
MCA (BCI 32?F): 870 amps
Capacity: 44 Ah (C/20)
Reserve Capacity: BCI:90 minutes
L 9.4
W 6.8
H 7.6
Weight: 31.1
>> Yellowtops <<
...Deep Cycle
http://www.optimabatteries.com/image...le-battery.jpg
D34/78-950
CCA (BCI 0o F): 550 amps
MCA (BCI 32 o F): 870 amps
Capacity: 55 Ah (C/20)
Reserve Capacity: BCI: 120 minutes
L 10
W 6.8
H 7.8
Weight: 43.8
D34-950
CCA (BCI 0?F): 550 amps
MCA (BCI 32?F): 870 amps
Capacity: 55 Ah (C/20)
Reserve Capacity: BCI: 120 minutes
L 10
W 6.8
H 7.8
Weight: 42.9
Recommended Cold Cranking Amps for this vehicle - 405
------------------------------------------
Moroso Battery Box
http://www.moroso.com/catalog/images...rybox_part.jpg
10-1/2" deep, 13" wide, 9-1/2" tall
L 13
H 10.5
W 9.5
------------------------------------------
[This message has been edited by NC_Rex (edited May 23, 2001).]
Moroso Box Dimensions update from tech support:
L Outside 13, Inside 10.5
H Outside 10.5, Inside 10
W Outside 9.5, Inside 8.75
Typical Optima Dimensions:
L 10
H 7.8
W 6.8
...phewww! It's gonna fit, good deal!
[This message has been edited by NC_Rex (edited May 23, 2001).]
Most recent additions up till last week.
I received my Moroso Battery Box...the thing's friggen huge! $110 for a plastic box - ouch! But it is made very well at least. However I don't agree with the grommets they supplied me with in this kit...they suck - don't even seal fully around the tubes...1/16 inch gap. I am getting some Autozone grommets if needed in the future.
Still saving up for Optima Battery.
I talked to Hondata about their low-temp Intake manifold gasket material. Doug Newman said he could get me a sheet of the material for $70.00 - enough for 3 gaskets to be made. That will be cool enough.
I also pickup up my D16Z6 intake manifold gasket - new, and Throttle Body Gasket. They don't make TPS gaskets form Honda - you have to buy the whole throttle body!!! So I went searching and found the exact same friggen gasket material...well the same TPS gasket material at a local V-8 specific performance shop for $3.00 bucks - a huge roll too! I am going to start making gaskets and probably end up selling them for $5.00 a piece mailed in an envelope.
Picked up also my LCA balljoint Boots and Axle-end Nuts. FRIGGEN $13.00 a boot! Honda thought it was $3.00 each, so they gave me them for $10.00 a peice. I am going here soon to a parts store to find replacements for $3.00 as they are supposed to be and return those others to Honda. W/T/F!
I mated up those hose to the radiator. Still don't like the way it bends. I need to find something a bit better. I may use another D-series engine hose and try...mine was cut a bit short from the junkyard as someone stole the radiator out of the car before I got to it. But it works for the meantime, I just don't want the hose to be constricted from the narrowing at the bend (actually somewhat slight but I am not comfortable with it).
The Zdyne ECU will be a go after I pay off the credit card...or a good chunk of it from the B16A2 engine. With this I will be able to do all kinds of mods and engines. I will no longer need a specific ECU for any engine swap. That means if I wanted to drop the B16A or B18C...all I would need is the exhuast manifold with our year-model O2 sensors, and the engine wiring to be changed around for sensor relocation. And that's it.
Since I have a B18C, the higher compression engine, my next goal is to have this transplanted into the CRX. However I will be using a Place Racing kit for this...I have found there kit will not interfere with the frame rails for the Hydro Transaxle. Place Racing is also coming out here in the next month with a Cable-to-Hydro adapter so we can use these newer transaxles. I would say to anyone that is going to drop in a 1.8 liter engine B18C or B18A/B...to have the B18C transaxle used on this swap. The gearing is amazing....and their are double-come synchro's on the 2-3 gear sets. These transaxles hardly wear, unlike all the B16A transaxles Honda has produced.
As far as Really cool thing I have found out:
To run Equal length axles on an 88-91 Civic/CRX, simply goto a Junkyard and get ahold of a driver's axle from an 88-91 Civic Wagon AWD Manual. It has to be a manual...automatic's are wrong size. And it has to be AWD...none of the other Wagons have this equal-length axle. It comes with an intermediate too as part of the axle. Only the D16A6 engine can accept this intermediate, as the D16Z6 and D16Y8 both don't have readily available mounting.....however - their appears to be positions in the block built up as if the holes just weren't drilled and tapped for the bolts! I talked to a kid that did this - and he somehow managed to drill entirely through the block (idiot). I think these holes are deep enough...but I can't be for certain. However I did not see them on the D16Y8 block.
The Zdyne ECU, I recently found out, has support for using a Palm Pilot to read sensor outputs from the Gold ECU they sell. I inquired Zdyne but they have yet to return my message. Also I have asked to have a downloaded version of their PDF format of instructions and manual for the Gold ECU so I could further evaluate it.
Most Most Recent Additions
None! Bought a pickup this week, so no money for Optima Battery.
Also I am two weeks out form buying an insulator gasket from Hondata as they also have them ready for sale.
I put together a huge shelving unit - 2x4's custom. 6.5 wide, 3 deep, 7.5 tall! Huge. The bottom is brace for engines. Just need the plywood sheets for the shelving. Unit will house 3 each engines on bottom. And beleive me I have Six engines already, and a 7th one coming when I get to it (going nowhere). D16Z6, D16Y8, D16A6, and the others.
Also been busy reviewing costs for a SOHC VTEC prebuilt Harness setup - like a small side business of building "prebuilt" harnesses for anyone intersted this Fall. No cores required for a harness, no exchange (however there will be a buyback if you have one avail). No D16Z6 or D16Y8 harness or injector connectors or Resistors required. Just send money and get in mail after the order clears.
Dusted off CRX yesterday...shit!
The money for the Zdyne ECU will end up making payments on the S10 I bought for the first 5 months. Oh well! I still have the VTEC controller and Si ECU.
I am also putting money into the Shelving units I've been building. Have been running me almost $120 a build! These things are enormous! Books for school to have set me back.
CRX will sit there probably till fall....however still waiting on Optima Battery. That's about it. Once I get it...Varrooom! I'll have to strap on plates and tow it with the pickup down to some back country road and just run it for a few minutes to see what the Air-Fuel looks like with the Si ECU and where to set the VTEC. Shit, I could do it now - but that battery will outgass like a Mofo...and that's just because it will deepcharge from not having been used in a 3 or so months. Best to wait for the Optima.
Backburner for about at least 3 more weeks.
Everything though as far as the swap is in the above.
Bringing this post back up front for a guy to see...got burried.
This engine may be yanked if anyone's reading my post on selling car. I have my Wife's CRX - it's an auto...and I have a spare DX tranny...so I'll probably end up combining these converting to manual and running this on a DX to Si conversion.
TTT
Well I've got a guy wanting to buy the B18C with some stuff...should pay off the Civic and buy the swap harnesses for the D16Z6 controls....will be able to run it hopefully soon like the 92-95 Civics.
Kinda threw together the roll cage in the CRX today...pretty cool, but I think they are made for an 88-model since the doors don't want to shut, what a pain in the ass.
I've decided I must be professionally considered insane. I must have some kind of Honda Dislexia, I can't figure out what the fuck I want to do with these cars and parts!??!?! I want the CRX, then I wanted to sell it for a 1G and total custom build, then I want to keep the Civic for the gas mileage, then I want to sell the CRX to pay for a build, ...hell I'm hopeless I swear, can't even laugh about it... Just so much work involved in making anything, always requires something custom and more money..
Well I think I'm just gonna settle, keep the CRX, sell of the DOHC VTEC goods, fix the Civic and sell it off, sell off everything and just have fun with the D16 engines and maybe turbo the CRX sometime in the future.
[This message has been edited by NC_Rex (edited August 06, 2001).]
hahaha! jon, you should feel lucky you're not a female import owner. i buy parts like shoes and change my mind with the wind!
but, it's a good thing when 2 sick people meet up. because then 1 sick peron can buy off the other one. (hehehe, you know what i mean http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif )
i've said it before, and i'll say it again:
"hi my name is Ami, and I'm a Honda-coholic!"
Ami
hahaha! jon, you should feel lucky you're not a female import owner. i buy parts like shoes and change my mind with the wind!
but, it's a good thing when 2 sick people meet up. because then 1 sick peron can buy off the other one. (hehehe, you know what i mean http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif )
i've said it before, and i'll say it again:
"hi my name is Ami, and I'm a Honda-coholic!"
Ami