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Wondering where to find Altec Stonehenge V plans. Am thinking about purchasing a set of 604-8H-IIIs and am thinking Stonehenge Vs would work best in my space. However, I need to run the plans by a cabinet builder to see what he would charge to build before I commit to the drivers. Anyone? Sure would appreciate any guidance - the plans seem not to exist on the interwebs.
Jeff
How about the III instead?
Altec Stonehenge III (3577A) Cabinet plans
http://www.hostboard.com/forums/hbmc.../2014/06/3.jpg
The one problem that I found with Jeff M's drawing is that the depth is 14 3/4 but original was 17 1/4. Other than that they are great drawings.
Here is a link to the original dimensions:
http://www.lansingheritage.org/image...ome/page07.jpg
Yes, seen the 3s. I want more bass. And I have the space.
Too bad a similar detailed drawing does not exist for the Vs somewhere.
Maybe this guy will sell you a copy?
Built to Order Altec Lansing Stonehenge V 5 Cabinets Oak Walnut etc for 604'S | eBay
Barring that get the dims from literature and work out the porting with a box program.
Give me the dimensions, the panel thickness and I will give you 2d and 3d diagrams and volums. :)
Well, DJK [who I trust] says it's 620 size, which is 9 ft^3 gross and Bill recommends 9 ft^3 net, so figure out what its gross will ~ be with the driver, bracing, and divvy it up to whatever H x W x D you like, though preferably make the W x D some golden or acoustic ratio to minimize the amount of internal damping required. The driver, vent location should be at odd modes in a high aspect ratio cab same as the speaker, listening position in a room, i.e. at ~ 3rds, 5ths, 7ths, etc., of its inside [i.d.] height .
FWIW, putting the vent close to the driver is all well and good in a typical rectangular cab, but the 'V' has a high enough aspect ratio for some minor ? WL TL pipe action to help damp the vent [and ideally should be taller], so placing the vent much closer to the bottom is a good plan for a theoretically smoothest response whereas up high it adds a second reflection that creates a broadband notch in the upper bass, defeating any TL pipe action.
Basically, the 'V' should sound like a big reflex unless the cab is relatively densely treated to roll off any peaking at tuning [Fb], but normally the goal is to maximize acoustic efficiency, so not a good plan.
Bill?s a successful horn designer, so has to know this. I guess he just chooses to stick to tradition for tradition?s sake and/or his main market wants it that way.
Regardless, you want more bass, then you need to go larger, tuned lower, so how big in H x W x D can you ?afford? and how much, if any EQ [and type] are you willing to use?
GM
Well, I want more bass than a Stonehenge III can deliver. Just trying to maximize the driver's potential without the use of subs. There will be no EQ.
Somewhere someone said the Stonehenge V cabinet dimensions are 50" tall, 22" wide, and 18" deep. Though that baffle measurement seems small to me. I've read that you'd want at least 24-26" width but I'm operating on a limited understanding of why a larger baffle may be better. But that's probably as large as cabinet as I'd want in my listening room (room dimensions are roughly 18'x30').
I suppose I could look further at an MLTL design. Though evidently Martin King's calculator for this type of design is now "private."
j mathers--are you jerry mathers--the beaver? ;)
Sounds proportionally about right based on looking at this: Iconic Speaker Manufacturing - Stonehendge PageQuote:
Originally Posted by jmathers
Right, narrower baffles roll off the lower frequencies as they fold back away due to being so large compared to it. This is called baffle step loss, so the narrower the baffle, the higher in frequency this begins. Consequently, narrow baffles typically need baffle step compensation [BSC] unless the speaker isn?t too deep and pushed up against a wall or in a corner.
Large Altec, etc., speakers are wide enough that shelving down the mids/HF to flat or a little lower is usually sufficient since it will be combining with the room?s gain.
FYI, MJK has temporarily made them available again for his yahoo! Group members, so join up if you?re interested: https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/.../messages/3995
GM
Quote:
Originally Posted by GM
Will there be much of a difference between the stonehenge V(22") or the altec 620(26") cabinets baffle width in room ?
Is baffle height just as important? What are the trade offs?
I will leave details to Greg. But if baffle height was not important would wings on old Altecs extend upward? So yes IMHO.Quote:
Originally Posted by dbale
Thanks for the tip on MJK's yahoo group. I've requested membership.Quote:
Originally Posted by GM
Thanks too for the baffle explanation - it's a little clearer to me now.
GM knows his stuff.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmathers
The V works MUCH better than the III.
I have the plans for the Stonehenge V - contact me directly about them.
Well, it?s important in the sense that the frequencies are expanding exponentially with decreasing frequency, so to the first approximation it?s all about area, but if it?s a very high aspect ratio one such as a line array baffle might have, then it?s contribution rapidly decreases with decreasing frequency and at about 1/3 WL it becomes acoustically transparent, leaving only its width roll off to account for.Quote:
Originally Posted by dbale
A HIFI/HT speaker?s height then is more about getting the driver up to an appropriate listening height for the app and in the case of a MLTL, making it tall enough at this driver position to also be at one of the optimum locations along its length, so normally I calculate the speaker?s height as a function of driver/floor distance.
Anyway, a 22? wide baffle rolls off ~20 % higher in frequency than a 26? wide one, so normally some efficiency must either be traded or boosted to flatten the response out to match the wider baffle?s tonal balance unless the room?s gain curve is great enough to offset the difference, in which case the wider baffle might need attenuating. Since boosting increases distortion, it?s always best to attenuate and why I promote large cabs tuned low no matter the room size.
GM
Got to get my post count up I guess before I can PM you.Quote:
Originally Posted by Todd W. White
If he hasn't done so already, maybe ask Todd to PM you. That should allow you to reply to him.Quote:
Originally Posted by jmathers
GM,thanks for the detailed reply.Quote:
Originally Posted by GM
Yes, seems logical. But how do I ask him if i can't PM him? Up to 6 posts now so getting there. I just hate to post for postings sake.Quote:
Originally Posted by bowtie427ss
Try this one from his homepage: [email protected]
GM
Thank you GM. I have emailed him. Much appreciated.Quote:
Originally Posted by GM