-
I wish I knew about this board before I JRSC'd my Integra!
Anyway, I'm running JRSC 6psi with CAI and DC headers and Greddy exhaust, everything else stock. I *just* installed a B&M fuel pressure gague and was shocked to set it floating at 90 no vacuum. I installed all the mods myself except the JRSC. My MIL/EC light went on shortly after the install and the code I get is running too rich (not a surprise I guess).
Questions: (forgive the stupid ?s please).
1) Why did the shop leave the stock FPR on? Shouldn't the JR FPR do the job? Seems redundant to me.
2) I need some ballpark FP recommendations for my setup. Help!
-
Oh yeah, upgraded fuel pump also. Don't know exactly what I got out of my ignorance to ask.
-
with 90 PSI static you may have a bad JR FPR. That wouldn't be the first time the board has seem that.
------------------
Bill Winters
Houston, TX
'94 bone stock GSR
-
BadAss,
First, welcome to the board.
Now, for your questions...
The stock fuel pressure regulator is retained because the JR FMU does not function in vaccuum... thus, you would have entirely too much fuel during cruise and idle conditions. Essentially, the stock regulator handles the adjustments from 30 in/hg to 0 boost... the JR FMU takes over at 0 boost and goes up.
Your static (vaccuum line unplugged from JR FMU and capped so as not to create a vaccuum leak) should be set at 60 psi +/- 2 psi.
Good luck.
------------------
'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
-
Ah, thanks JRCivic. Comprendo ahora!
Yes, I'm not getting warm fuzzies from the JR FMU. I was able to adjust the static down to 60 no problem, but when I go to boost, the B&M gets pegged!! It's my impression that the FP should gradually climb depending on how much boost I'm at. From the board reading I've done, it sounds like the Cartech unit it the way to go . . .
------------------
Andrew West
2001 4-dr GSR, 6psi JRSC, DC 4-2-1, Greddy exhaust, B&M FP Gague
-
Yea, the Cartech allows for a lot of adjustability. I had one on my turbo Civic and loved it!
I think the JR unit is a 12:1 riser (can anyone confirm this?) so 12*6=72 on top of your 60 static would be 132 PSI of fuel. The pressure in the manifold may be more than 6 so add another 12 PSI of fuel for every pound of boost the FPR is seeing but it doesn't look like you have a boost gauge from your sig. Both a boost gauge and A/F gauge would help in the tuning but getting the static down was a good first step.
I don't know why 12:1 FMUs are the norm. In the instructions for the 20005 FMU, Corky Bell talks about ~6 PSI for every PSI of boost on a turbo/sc convert car. 60+6*6=96 which sounds about right.
------------------
Bill Winters
Houston, TX
'94 bone stock GSR
-
JR's FPR is 5:1 I believe but you have to take the amount of boost seen in the manifold to accomodate for the higher readings.
Just like my boost guage hits 8-9psi on the 6psi pulley, the FPR is seeing 8-9psi also:
60psi @ 0 vac + [5(rise ratio) x 9(boost seen at manifold) 45 ] = 95psi or so depending on the accuracy of the JR unit.
-
I had a JR FPR all of a sudden stick at 90psi between runs at an autocross. However, it would not adjust down.
Since your's DID adjust down, I'd give it a chance and get some data. Maybe it was just adjusted wrong when it was packaged.
Do you have any way of seeing FP at WOT?
------------------
Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC @6psi, AEM CAI/RSR 4-2-1/Greddy PE, Cartech 20005/Walbro GSS-342/TPS Mod, JR BTC, KYB AGX/H&R OE Sport/ST 19mm Rear Swaybar
Best 1/4 ==> 13.937 @ 101.41mph
My JRSC Install Site
-
No, I'm discovering that it's hard to tune anything without feedback!
The B&M filter gague pegs (above 100psi) on ANY amount of boost, I think. When I flick the throttle in the engine bay, it looks to jump from static to pegged without any in between FP range, which leads me to believe my JR FMU is screwed up. I don't have any internal gagues to help me out. My guess is I got it from the shop without them even measuring the FP. Hopefully it didn't screw anything up.
Also, the B&M isn't a steady reading (i.e. it doesn't fluctuate greatly but it shakes very quickly +- 5 psi around the actual pressure). I assume this is normal, but I don't have enough experience to know better at the moment!!
Thanks for all the help. I hope to return the favors to this board one day . . .
------------------
Andrew West
Santa Barbara, CA
2001 4-dr GSR, 6psi JRSC, DC 4-2-1, Greddy exhaust, B&M FP Gague
-
BTW, just found out I got a Walbro 255 fuel pump installed at the shop with the SC. At least they got that right.
------------------
Andrew West
Santa Barbara, CA
2001 4-dr GSR, 6psi JRSC, AEM CAI, DC 4-2-1, Greddy exhaust, B&M FP Gague
-
The B&M gauge is not super accurate. I replaced mine because it was so off.
I'd get an AutoMeter electric FP gauge and use that to tune with.
If your FP is REALLY spiking to 100psi with just a bit of boost, your JR FPR could be toast.
BTW, Walbro GSS-318 or GSS-342??? They're both 255lph, but the 342 pumps against much higher pressures.
Greg
-
Oh, a GSS-342 I would assume, since it definitely pegs strong past 100. If I'm correct, the 317 runs out of steam at around 90psi.
BTW, Greg, awesome JRSC install site. You were one of the sites that helped convince me to go for the SC in the first place! I notice that we have a somewhat similar setup also from your sig. I also noticed you ditched the JR FPR and picked up a Cartech, even though you mentioned I should give the JR another chance! You must know something that I don't!
Another question for you (you may not know if you're not in CA) - have you ever measured emissions on your setup? I'm a bit freaked that the first time I bring my ride in to get smogged that they're going to slap a fat fine on my ass. Supposedly all the mods I have are 50-state legal, so I assume that means that I should meet smog specs.
-
A 317 can put the pressure past 100psi, but not for very long.
About the FPR, the fact that you could adjust it down to a proper static pressure is a good sign. When mine broke, they both were "stuck". Nothing I did to the adjuster would budge the pressure.
Your fuel pump is not CA legal. It isn't part of the official JR Kit now is it? http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif Do a search on emmisions. Several people have posted their results from smog roller testing and ways to reduce emmisions for the test.
Greg
-
I noticed my B&M guage wasn't very accurate either (although you almost have to buy theirs to get that nice little fitting). I have an electric Autometer fuel gauge as well and my readings between the two were always off maybe 4-6psi and the B&M didnt seem to hold a constant reading. I replaced the actual B&M gauge with a $20 VDO guage with the same thread and diameter and it shows constant pressure and is always exactly the same reading I'm getting on the Autometer unit.
As far as emmisions testing, I just recently had to take mine in for Ohio's "e-check" and they use the exhaust analyzing equipment to check for too much polution. I was worried, but it passed with flying colors.
I think the kit passes mostly because unless you get some idiot mashing the throttle during the test you never really get any boost and the ECU stays in closed-loop which maintains a clean burn.
