Model 19 Cabinet Finish

One thing led to another and I ended up re-wiring my M19's.

Haven't been up close and personal with them in some time, even though I see them every day.
Mine have the walnut finish and the veneer is looking really dry.

You guys have any suggestion for a finish?
I don't wish to do a stain/brush etc thing.
There must be a good wipe on wipe off type finish.

I'm not much of a wood guy.

BTW, just for grins I looked up M19's on the Bay.
Holy crap! Really? $4000 - $6500!
I can't believe they are actually selling at these prices.

Ron

there is only one finish for walnut, boiled linseed oil and lots of rubbing.

Most folks will opt for some cheap crap alternative because a real hand rubbed oil finish(like they had from the factory) takes actual work.

If you're willing to do the time/work, there is no deeper, more beautiful finish on walnut than a hand rubbed oil finish.

Howards feed and wax does an amazing job and last for a long time here are mine after a few months.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vHTjES13Z60

disclaimer; for entertainment purposes only

High quality tongue oil and lots of elbow grease.

Thanks guys. I'll get me some linseed oil and start rubbing!
I should probably re-remove the woofers and crossovers.
Ron

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Thanks guys. I'll get me some linseed oil and start rubbing!

Ron

FYI,

http://www.hostboard.com/forums/hbmc.../2017/02/1.gif

:)

I am with you EK, if the finish isnt destroyed you maintain it, lest you sand it down and "start over" Howards will plump dry wood and then once dry can be buffed to a miraculous sheen...all it does is add oils to the dry wood and then hardens to a fairly hard wax... but to each his own...

Maybe I'll just use a brush and house paint.
I have some left over.

Estapol Antique Paint Advertisement Ad April 1970 Vintage Retro | 1970 - Magazine Advertisements from Australia | Pinterest | Paint, Vintage and Antiques

Hey, you may even have some Estapol Antique paint at the back of the shelf.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Todd W. White

High quality tongue oil and lots of elbow grease.

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X2.

Coconut oil was good enough for my master craftsman furniture, etc., builder/restorer relatives for just about all things fine finish hard/soft wood including hardwood floors. Had to buy a new jar today to redo the two late '60s tempered glass door equipment racks' hardwood chassis's. Been at least 14 yrs since I last did them as I lost interest after the Altec's got zapped. Seems hard to believe they've been down this long. Now if I only had a functioning camera to show them off...... :(: Amazon.com : Tresomega Nutrition Organic Extra Virgin Natural Cold Pressed Coconut Oil 54 oz (Pack of 2) : Grocery & Gourmet Food

Oh yeah, not much rubbing required, just heat it up, flow it on with a rag, let set and wipe like cleaning glass with a rag. Only extra rubbing required if you lay it on too thick, though even then you can use a hair dryer to reheat it, wipe it down. I use an old artist's oil brush for filling in creases, corners, etc..

Best part, you can eat it, lick your fingers for a treat while you work! :D

GM

And it smells like the beach

I wish! I really miss the several annual trips/vacations to the Atlantic, Gulf I once took for granted. :( Actually, the smell goes away pretty quick; just now they smelled like the old wood planks construction they are.

GM

After further review, the finish on my 19's needs re-finished.
pretty faded, especially the tops. Not rough, a couple of stains.
Should be a very light sand.

Going to have to be a summer project with fans and the basement windows open.

Ron

Attachment 3423

I have a pair of M17 cabs that are rougher than your M19's. I'll be watching your progress before I pull mine out of storage and refinish them.

The veneer on mine is starting to feel slightly rough. Hopefully I can save it

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Originally Posted by Phil-G

And it smells like the beach

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It smells like hot chicks on the beach. :D

I've been to beaches on 3 continents, and a couple islands, they all smell the same like spoiled seafood and sulfur.

The question i have is "is coconut oil a drying(polymerizing) oil?"

I don't like tung oil for most woods as it darkens them too much, and i don't care to support Chinese export for products that have equals right here at home. Real tung oil is pressed from the seeds of the tung tree which grows in china. Tung oil does polymerize quite well however, and you want that property in an oil for finishing.

Linseed oil is pressed from flax seed, it's been used as a dietary/health supplement for hundreds of years and is quite good for you. It also polymerizes. It leaves the wood several shades lighter than tung oil. With very light shades, some linseed may "yellow" a bit over time although that would never be an issue on a dark wood like walnut.

Quote:

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I have a pair of M17 cabs that are rougher than your M19's. I'll be watching your progress before I pull mine out of storage and refinish them.

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The grain needs to be filled, oak requires variations in the process from walnut.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by bowtie427ss

I've been to beaches on 3 continents, and a couple islands, they all smell the same like spoiled seafood and sulfur.

The question i have is "is coconut oil a drying(polymerizing) oil?"

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Don't forget nasty smelling seaweed.

No.

GM

Odors aside, my BIL, the furniture builder turned me on to a process he uses for custom furniture. I used it on a pair of 60 yr old Grundig walnut speakers and it worked out well. I started with 400 grit wet and dry paper but 600 grit is adequate for speakers that don't have drink rings or other staining. Sand lightly using this solvent-free Tung oil: Botanical Polymerized Tung Oil - Non-Toxic Wood Finish. Wipe and follow with 1000 grit and the same oil. Wipe, let dry, and apply a wipe coat of the same oil. You should have two Steinways in your house when done.