-
ENDYN has a Bosch pump upgrade that looks like it will never fail.It's enormous!!!!
They also have a "Stepper alternator pulley",that supposed to increase boost "3"lbs.
3 quick questions:
1.will the bosch pump be sufficient enough ?
2.will i need injectors with the pump,b-cuz ENDYN says its not needed,b-cuz the stock injectors keep a smooth idle.
3.is it safe to jump up with the stepper pulley 3lbs.,that would be a total of 9 lbs.
and the pulley they change is the alternator pulley.
thanks to all...............
------------------
94 civic coupe/b18c
6lb kit.
CUSTOM INTERCOOLER(testing)
Type R cams(future testing)
1 bad mofo(my wallet)
-
I'll let you know about the stepper pulley in a few weeks, I'm getting one. I think, however, that the actual manifold pressure will be more than 3psi higher. We'll see.
As to fuel, I'm using 320cc injectors with great idle and throttle response. I've had to tweek the fuel system a bit to get it right, but I really think it's necessary to use larger injectors for boost levels over 8psi regardless of what pump you have. Even at 8psi the stock injectors are barely adequate.
-
Here's something to think about...
you guys that are increasing your boost on the JRSC kits....
do you really think it's worth the extra 20 or less horsepower that it'll produce?
law of physics:
when air is compressed, the molecules have less of a volume to move around in... basically, the air molecules move around faster as their volume of freedom decreases as you do when you force air.. (building boost) with the air molecules moving around faster and faster as their freedom of movement decreases or as you build boost... it generates heat, a lot of heat actually because of the friction caused by the air molecules bombarding and bouncing off of each other. without any way of cooling off the charged compressed air, you're inducing hotter air than you initially had into the engine...
now, i'm sure that all of you guys understand that when you take in cold air... it's dense and you feel the difference... with hotter than atmosphere air being forced into the engine, imagine what's going on in there... all hell is going to break loose... and that's why i think a lot of you JRSC guys see a lot of detonation. especially when you guys accelerate, because this is when the SC builds its boost.
i know that TOO (LARRY) has a 21 psi ITR running off a supercharger... now, how much horsepower do you think is actually being generated from his setup? 21 psi on a turbo kit with an intercooler, now i'm sure you guys know these cars (if you read mags)... but TOO's 21 psi SC system, doesn't even come close... y? because his charge air is so hot, that it's basically ready to become something it's not supposed to be... probably as you're heating the air so hot even before it enters the cylinder... i think that you have some kind of chemical break up and bonding in there..
if you JRSC guys are really looking for HP and to extract all the power from inducing a volume of compressed air into your engine, i think the problem is not looking to up the boost... but rather find a way to cool off the air being induced into the engine...
once that is solved, you guys with JRSC will then be finding a way to up the boost... that's for sure....
------------------
www.citylimitracing.com
1998" TARGET=_blank>www.drive.to/TCL www.citylimitracing.com
1998</A> GSR black now yellow... FULL BLOWN PROJECT Y2K.
[This message has been edited by TurboGSR (edited June 29, 2000).]
-
your right,its probably not a good idea to go ahead and up the boost, but hey,i don't have nothing to lose except,maybe the motor.But,then again,thats why they invented junk yards.I'm still in the process of inventing some sort of intercooler for my sc,but until then ,im gonna fiddle with the fuel and boost without it,cuz i gots da speed bug. later and thanks for the informative and knowledgeable response.
Thanks
------------------
94 civic coupe/b18c
6lb kit.
CUSTOM INTERCOOLER(testing)
Type R cams(future testing)
1 bad mofo(my wallet)
-
rjaffey, how did you adjust your fuel ? with the JR FPR?
------------------
94 civic coupe/b18c
6lb kit.
CUSTOM INTERCOOLER(testing)
Type R cams(future testing)
1 bad mofo(my wallet)
-
I was just talking with Larry this morning (I ordered the "friendly"- $210 -Bosch fuel pump) and am going to be installing my 8psi setup with ported, but mainly polished JR manifold and 310cc injectors this weekend, should be fun.. hehe.
BUT- getting to my point here, as far as intercooling, we have 2 options... first- water injection, it works. Second- a small shot of nitrous (use Zex kit with a pressure sensor for activation above 7 or 8psi or something) and bammmm! instant intercooler.
There are hurdles, but no walls.
------------------
Much love to the imports :p
-
Turbo GSR, if you read more about Larry's blown ITR, you'll find that his kit does in fact have an intercooler. It's a not just air-air, or even water-air. It uses some kind of refridgerant, and it's sandwiched inside the manifold. It's an interesting set-up.
As far as raising the boost, my ENDYN modded JRSC runs 15 psi without problems. The "aeroporting" that was done makes for much smoother transition for the air entering and exiting the blower. Plus, the blower itself is more efficient. So, there is less turbulence inside the blower and... less heat. But I do not argue with the laws of physics. Compressing air will heat it. But with the mods done, not nearly as much.
-
SC HYBRID,
It took a combination of 4 things to operate at lower fuel pressures:
- Larger injectors
- B&M CommandFlo
- Cartech FMU (it's just a boost sensitive pressure regulator like JR's, but better)
- Custom fuel bypass to reroute some fuel around the OE regulator.
-
rjaffey,can you describe again how you routed some lines around the oem fpr?
-
I belive that Larry's "aeroporting" has allowed him to run a nonintercooled eaton blower at 16psi or so(can't remember if it was a M45 or M65)...but with output temps about the same or less of the 8psi JR kit. Wish I could remember where I put it...think I had the results of the graphs of the two sensor readings somewhere...think they came from Larry or Doug...being that I built jet engine nozzles right out of high school for Rohr, I could see this happening after seeing pictures of a welded and ported blower...with a screen cooler running a decent coolant, 20 or so psi doesn't seem unreal...wish he would sell the god damn thing to someone on this board though...so there could be some peace on the subject...
------------------
1998' 4dr GSR, 8psi JRSC w/hand ported plenum, Walbro HP fuel pump, valves set to .005i/.006e, MSD BTM, B&M CommandFlo regulator(working it out), stock intake w/resinator cut off at fenderwell for "cool air", Greddy sp exhaust, Tokico Illumina 5-ways, Neuspeed springs(sux!), Skunkworks 22mm rear swaybar, ES motor mounts and front swaybar bushings, Yokohama AVS 205/50/15's, Metal Master brake pads(KVR Carbon Fibre pads sitting on work bench) ,B&M fuel pressure gauge, Autometer sport comp A/F gauge in dimmer location...
YLW 00' ITR #00-1011 with AEM CAI and 143db triple air horns
Honest officer, I had no idea how fast I was going...the speedometer only gos to 150...
-
Can you guys explain or provide me a link on what a stepper pulley is and how it works? Thanks.
-
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by hooper:
As far as raising the boost, my ENDYN modded JRSC runs 15 psi without problems. <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Have you got any dynos or 1/4 runs on that puppy?
-
ENDYNE sells an upgrade for the alternator pulley that replaces it with a bigger one,which in turn produces more boost,approx.8-9 p.s.i.
-
TurboGSR is completely correct at least in theory. In practice, I know that the Miata guys here in Atlanta (and anecdotally in other places) have tried the 8 psi upgrade and a number of other tricks including water injection to raise the boost level of the JRSC. Now, in the Miata it is actually physically possible to put an I/C between the blower and the dummy TB so that has been done too.
The results of these attempts were less than satisfactory. Still the most powerful JRSC Miata measure among 6 or more at a dyno day was a stock, 6 psi 1.8l Miata, followed clodely by another 6 psi JRSC Miata.
I don't know why this is or what the problems are but the fact is that the 6 psi JRSC seems to be the magic number for best performance with minimal hassle.
I know that many GSR guys have 8 and higher psi JRSCs and I don't doubt that they make a lot of power, etc.
Personally, I believe that the 6 psi system is best and when properly tuned will make very nice power. I believe that the porting of the blower, manifold and head will produce excellent power gains and will allow the blower to flow more air at even lower rpm. This is the secret of S/C performance. Actually, higher indicated boost might not be a good thing!! High flow of non-compressed air is the best thing. Compressed air gets awfully hot and this leads to all types of problems. I would like to have my system ported and polished by somebody who knows the tricks. Ideally I should like to see 5-6 psi with a lot of dyno recorded power http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
Manuel
------------------
'96 GSR, JRSC 6 psi, Greddy Sp, Apex 4-2-1, Home made CAI w/K&N, Ground controls coil overs, Eibach, AGX, DC short shifter, more stuff on the way.... :)
-
So its just basically a bigger alternator pulley, similar to the one used in SCC?
-
Zip,
Don't you mean smaller pulley in order to spin the charger faster for more boost?
------------------
94 Civic Coupe/LS Hybrid
AEM CAI
DC 4-1 Ceramic Header
Random Technology Cat
GReddy PE exhaust
Skunkworks Coilovers
ACT 6 Puck
Turbo Convert
Supercharger on the way?
-
I have the Endyn alternator pulley. But haven't put it on yet.
For you civic guys -- my set up will be
1 Unorthodox underdrive pulley
1 jr 3.8 SC pulley (yes, that's right 3.8)
1 Endyn stepper alternator pulley
Hopefully this will make around 7 or 8 psi if I'm lucky.
-
reddelsol: Sounds like you'll be making a lot of trips to exchange belts!
That's an interesting idea using the UO pulley combined with a smaller blower pulley to cancel each other out. The lower rotating mass will likely be worth a tenth or so on the 1/4 mile. I'd be concerned about no harmonic balancer at our boosted torque levels though.
Greg
-
fastfour: If its on the alternator side wouldn't you need a larger diameter pulley as oppposed to a smaller pulley on the SC? I don't know, if my logic is correct though. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/frown.gif
BTW, why do they call it a stepper pulley? Is it because one side of pulley is smaller in diameter compared to the otherside?
-
Yeah, I am concerned about no harmonic balencer -- after reading up on T.O.O comments.
So, we'll see what happens (crossing fingers)
I've been running 5lbs of boost without the stepper puller (no problems so far).
In answer to "stepper" name - well the dual pulley is two different diamenters, so maybe that is why it's called that, but don't know for sure.
-
That particular set-up is out of the car at the moment, but the last time I G-teched the car in hp mode it made 165hp (I beleive that's wheel hp minus wind drag). And my vehicle weight was accurate. The 1/4 mode is always a dissappointment because of traction. I just haven't found the right place to feel confident enough to properly heat up the tires and then do several runs without fear of traffic and the boys in blue.
But I think the hp reading is a good indicator. Just wait 'til Larry gets my motor done!
