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i have installed the univresal BTM from MSDS. evrything is hooked up OK, when set at 0.5 psi retard the car bogs under boost, at 1psi retard its even worse. my initial timing is at 19 degrees with a compression ratio of 8.6 to 1. should i advance or retard iniyial timing( is clockwise or counterclockwise advance or retard) help me out ,i fell like i just blew 300$ Canadian for nothing..
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d16z6 ,JRSC 10 psi, spearco water injection,8:6 to 1 CR
energy susp bushing ,Gude 4-1 headers,
PRM CAI filter,ground control,tokico 5-way...
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Dude...it's supposed to do that!!! If you bought the BTM thinking that it was supposed to ADD power then you did waste $300.00. This unit is meant to retard timing under boost so that detonation doesn't get a chance to happen. When it bogs it just means that the unit is doing what it was designed to do...retard timing by sensing boost. What prompted you to get the BTM? Were you detonating? Or, did it just sound like it'd be "cool" to get?
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Fred G.
'97 Civic EX supercharged http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/4059
Beech 1900D driver...2,558 shp, 10,000+ ft./lbs. tq., top speed 331 mph :)
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yeah no offense, but when you are retarding timing, it is not going to feel good.
you are not gaining power with the btm
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You gain low rpm and off boost throttle response, but not more power under full boost no. Your gas milage should go up too. Also, retarded timing makes for a hotter engine. Retarding as boost builds, most likely makes engine times a little lower for short bursts into boost.
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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/
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JR CIVIC my base timing was and is set at
19 degrees, also i lowered the compression to about 8-6 to 1
where should i set my timing.., retard it or advance it the set my retard to 0.5...
boost is at 10 psi. water injection is not on due to a faulty pressure switch.
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d16z6 ,JRSC 10 psi, spearco water injection,8:6 to 1 CR
energy susp bushing ,Gude 4-1 headers,
PRM CAI filter,ground control,tokico 5-way...
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Your base timing was 19' BTDC before you installed the BTM ??? If so, WOW !!!
The whole purpose of the BTM is to help you get back to the OE initial advance settings without detonation.
Usually, if you notice, most people running boost here have their base timing set between 8 and 10' BTDC. This makes your throttle response, and low RPM accelleration sluggish. Add the BTM, and you can increase the timing off idle yet still dial it back so as not to detonate.
If in fact you are NOT detonating at 19' advance, then SELL the BTM. It is not doing anything for you.
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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
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What was your base timing set at BEFORE you installed the BTM ???
How much boost do you have ???
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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by waveoff:
Dude...it's supposed to do that!!! If you bought the BTM thinking that it was supposed to ADD power then you did waste $300.00. This unit is meant to retard timing under boost so that detonation doesn't get a chance to happen. When it bogs it just means that the unit is doing what it was designed to do...retard timing by sensing boost. What prompted you to get the BTM? Were you detonating? Or, did it just sound like it'd be "cool" to get?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Uh sorry. The BTM isn't supposed to make your car bog. If you wanted bogging, might as well set your timing to 5 degrees and be on your way.
I would dial back the initial timing to stock as JRCivic eluded to. Set the BTM knob to 0 degrees and set the timing to 16 BTDC. Then set the retard to 1 degree per 1 psi. This is what I run at 10psi on my D16Z6.
Also check the wiring under the cap and make sure it's not interferring with the rotor to terminal spark delivery.
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GReddy turbo'd and intercooled D16Z6. Currently blown.
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DUH, I'm not an idiot and neither is anyone else here (I hope). It's common sense to know that the car gives a BOGGING SENSATION when under boost with the TIMING KNOB SET OFF OF ZERO. The higher the knob setting, the higher the bogging SENSATION WHILE BOOSTING. Hopefully this clears up some confusion.
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Fred G.
'97 Civic EX supercharged http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/4059
Beech 1900D driver...2,558 shp, 10,000+ ft./lbs. tq., top speed 331 mph :)
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waveoff,
Sorry. Didn't mean to sound so condescending. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
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Hey man, it's no big deal. I didn't really clarify some things in my original post. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif
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Fred G.
'97 Civic EX supercharged http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/4059
Beech 1900D driver...2,558 shp, 10,000+ ft./lbs. tq., top speed 331 mph :)
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I had the same "bogging" problem when I installed my MSD6BTM..... You know what cured mine? ...... A new BTM. The pressure sensor in mine was bad. Just a thought.
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Hmmm...OK, let's clear things up a little more. This "bogging" that kameleon experienced is just the BTM functioning normally. If you read his post again it says that "the car bogs under boost"...which it's supposed to do with the BTM knob set off of zero. So, it's not a problem at all just normal behavior!
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Fred G.
'97 Civic EX supercharged http://www.geocities.com/motorcity/track/4059
Beech 1900D driver...2,558 shp, 10,000+ ft./lbs. tq., top speed 331 mph :)
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Once again..... I am aware of what the BTM module does. Mine "overreacted" and had to be replaced.
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Once again..... I am aware of what the BTM module does. Mine "overreacted" and had to be replaced. Always jumping straight to the maximum of 15 degrees of retard no matter what the boost level.
Grab a multimeter and measure the impedance of the knob at 0, and slowly turn it to 3.... Make sure there is a variance, your impedance should go up. Could be a bad potentiometer.
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Once again..... I am aware of what the BTM module does. Mine "overreacted" and had to be replaced. Always jumping straight to the maximum of 15 degrees of retard no matter what the boost level.
Grab a multimeter and measure the impedance of the knob at 0, and slowly turn it to 3.... Make sure there is a variance, your impedance should go up. Could be a bad potentiometer.
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Let me post this little thought. I think the BTM works well, but not for making power. Here's why:
http://www.redisoft.com/integra/imag...quirements.gif
I'll also add, I think the ideal (and I think this has been mentioned), would be timing retard by RPM and BOOST. The Zdyne ECU does this, but it's not available for all cars.
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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/
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next week i will try advancing the timing to to max, and try the btm at .5 or 1 or what ever...
i cant try it this week cause im getting ready for a 5 hour drive to a big car show in Toronto Canada , maybee you heard about it its called DARKNIGHTS the biggest Canadian car show ever( over 1000 cars on display, 750 vendors,50 000 spectators, and also bikini contests) im aiming for the BEST OF SHOW wish me luck.
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d16z6 ,JRSC 10 psi, spearco water injection,8:6 to 1 CR
energy susp bushing ,Gude 4-1 headers,
PRM CAI filter,ground control,tokico 5-way...
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is anyone from Canada, or is someone going to DARKNIGHTS.. in Toronto Ontario
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d16z6 ,JRSC 10 psi, spearco water injection,8:6 to 1 CR
energy susp bushing ,Gude 4-1 headers,
PRM CAI filter,ground control,tokico 5-way...
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I thought the whole point of a BTM is to get ride of the bogging when going from a complete stop... to move that bogging to the top end seems a bit useless.
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Best of luck Dude! I'll be at Darknights too! I won't be competing since my car won't be ready for a couple of weeks.
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ZOOMLFE , you should stop by and say HI...
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d16z6 ,JRSC 10 psi, spearco water injection,8:6 to 1 CR
energy susp bushing ,Gude 4-1 headers,
PRM CAI filter,ground control,tokico 5-way...
