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I was accelerating hard out of a turn when the check engine light came on. My car runs fine so I don't think it's anything too serious.
Does anyone have any ideas what it could be? The acura dealer is charging me $70 just to diagnose the problem. Is my only option to go to them?
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1995 Integra GSR
JR Supercharger (6 psi), HO fuel pump, RS*R Header, Thermal R&D Exhaust, Iceman Intake, Neuspeed Front Tower Bar, Type-R Rear Swaybar, Short Shifter, ST 1.3" drop springs
Low on oil maybe?
sometimes if you close to low and you take a hard corner all the oil goes to one side of the pan, the ECU thinks your low on oil and the CEL comes on..
i'd just reset it, check the oil level and see if it comes on again..
HTH
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-Temporarily NOT - TO4e powered
$70 http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/eek.gif Well I would venture to say that your oil might be alittle low and maybe when you turn (you might have been in vtec range) and the computer saw this as a big drop in pressure because the vtec system need the right amount of oil to work properly/work at all. Have you tried to pull the code your self yet? Another thing you can do is just reset your ecu and see if it throws the code again. Normally if the problem is still present it will throw it again, and if it was just momentary you won't throw it again.
Good luck
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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Airmass header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, Ground Controls and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on a Carbon Fiber diet,RC 310 steriods,and new sticky foot wear of the 555R type
The 'check engine' light won't come on due to low oil pressure unless the low pressure situation lasts long enough to trigger a VTEC pressure switch problem. If the 'check engine' light is on, the ECU has detected a driveability/emissions problem. The oil light would have come on if there was a temporary loss of/drop in oil pressure.
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2000 White Diamond Pearl 3.2TL
Don't go to the dealer yet.
Find out what code you are throwing and post it here. I don't have the manual, but many others do.
To get the code:
1) Engine off. Keys removed from ignition.
2) Short out the service connector (same one you short out to adjust the timing).
3) Turn key to "On", but don't start engine.
4) Count flashes of CE light. It has two digits to tell you, so look for a pause in the flashing. e.g. Flash-pause-Flash-Flash-Flash-Flash = Code 14.
If you have a zero in the second digit, I have no idea how to tell. Some other people might have better details than this, but this is basically how it works.
You can do this over and over, so don't worry about getting it the first time.
Also, disconnecting the battery for 1/2 hour or so will clear all codes.
Good luck,
Greg
I forgot to mention... you can of course short the service connector under the passenger side of the dash and count the 'check engine' light flashes. The easiest way to reset the codes is to pull the "Back-Up" fuse in the underhood fuse box. You've only got to take it out for a few seconds. Note that you'll need the radio code and will lose all your presets, as well as the time on your clock.
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2000 White Diamond Pearl 3.2TL
OK, I shorted out my service connector and this is what happened. The CE light flashed once, then went off for 3 seconds, then flashed once, then off for 3 seconds, etc.
Is this a code 10 or 11?
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1995 Integra GSR
JR Supercharger (6 psi), HO fuel pump, RS*R Header, Thermal R&D Exhaust, Iceman Intake, Neuspeed Front Tower Bar, Type-R Rear Swaybar, Short Shifter, ST 1.3" drop springs
I talked to my friend at the Acura dealership and said that this was a code 1. Apparently, if it a code 10, it'll flash 10 times then pause.
Anyway, a code 1 signifies a heated O2 sensor. Apparently, when you run rich (which I believe I am although I won't know for sure until the gauges are in), the O2 sensor becomes coated and becomes blind. If this is the case, he said that the O2 sensor will probably need to be replaced.
I'm going to reset my ECU by disconnecting the battery and see if the MIL (malfunction indicator light-CE light) comes back on.
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1995 Integra GSR
JR Supercharger (6 psi), HO fuel pump, RS*R Header, Thermal R&D Exhaust, Iceman Intake, Neuspeed Front Tower Bar, Type-R Rear Swaybar, Short Shifter, ST 1.3" drop springs
Sounds like your car needs an "Italian Tune-Up"!
Drive it like your thrashing a Ferrari though the Alps. That'll clean off the sensor!
Greg
you are getting a code "1". That is you primare O2 sensor. Clear the codes as mentioned earlier and run the car, if it comes back on and you get the same code, just run over to you neighborhood autozone, pepboys or whatever and buy a bosch o2 sensor for you car. If you go to the dealership, prepare to get raped! http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
thanks gsrev, I've heard that the dealer charges out the a-hole for an O2 sensor. By the way, I pulled the backup fuse from my fusebox and it didn't do anything. The light never even went off. Marc told me that I needed to pull both the backup fuse and the fuse marked PGM/FI but there's no such fuse on my 95 GSR.
So I'm going to try and disconnect my battery and try to reset the ECU that way.
[This message has been edited by AvanishV (edited May 25, 2000).]
I had a problem with the rear O2 sensor heater circuit on my '97 GS-R and the MIL would come back on 1 or 2 seconds after starting the car.
Pulling the backup fuse does in fact reset the ECU, but if the error condition that set it off in the first place is still present, it's going to come right back on.
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2000 White Diamond Pearl 3.2TL