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Well I've installed the 310 cc/min injectors.
It's a good thing I have the cartech. After tuning I've settled on 45 static pressure (lowest), 60 ramp pressure at 1 atm (lowest), and max pressure at 70 psi. (slowest rise).
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/ima..._installed.jpg
I'm going to work on getting static pressure down to 40, and get the ramp pressure to 55 or so. I'll have to tune the max fuel pressure under load, but I can tell you anything more than 70 psi, and it starts to feel sluggish. Don't try this on your JR regulator!
I'm sure as I play with the settings, I'll come up with something better.
I was able to advance the timing a little, as less J&S activity was seen.
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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/
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I see you have a B&M Commandflo Fuel Modifier. Did you have to do anything to the JR FPR adapter? When I look at my adapter, looks like it will get in the way of the B&M unit.
My 370cc/min injectors are coming in 2 weeks and I hope they are sufficient coz I plan to run stock fuel press. on a SC B16A. (w/PMS unit) If it isn't enough, I'll have to add a commandflo.
I didn't go 440cc/min coz the idle might be affected.
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Hey Lund, so it doesn't matter which side wire you use to reconnect the new adapters? I read that on your site and though I don't really know, it sounds like a typo http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/confused.gif Also, did you leave the "lower" cushions in? It says something about these in the instructions but I think the older cars were the ones that had to remove them. Glad to hear they are working out and look forward to more results being posted. Hey, did you notice a change in your idle after doing this?
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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Airmass header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, Ground Controls and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on a Carbon Fiber diet,RC 310 steriods,and new sticky foot wear of the 555R type
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SC SiR: Yes I have the commandFlo. I have the cartech FMU, and I adjusted all of them down as far as they would go in rise rate, and baseline and ramp speeeds. I want to lower the pressure even more, but to do it, I need to modify the OE regulator and add a very small by pass. Acutally I think I'm going to modify them to make them larger.
Mr Rogers: It doesn't matter which wire you connect. You need to replace the lower cushins with smaller ones. The stock ones are too tall. My idle is fine, but I HAD TOO lower pressures. At 100 psi the car BOGGED bad, and felt much slower, as my A/F meter showed it VERY rich.
Really, I think that 40 psi, 55 psi ramp pressure, and 65 max psi on my motor would be about right. I'm just above those pressures... for now.
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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/
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Hey Lundgren I got a question for you. Ive got a built d16z6 with a greddy turbo kit and I am in the process of choosing a set of injectors to up the the boost. My main concern is how Im gonna be able to lower the fuel pressure at idle so I wont be dumping so much fuel at low rpm/nonboost conditions. All I've got is a bnm regulator I plan to use and a Vortech rising rate regualator that came with the greddy kit. Can you tune all that excessive fuel out? Any suggestions? Thanks.
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Lund- So are you saying even with an Apexi SAFC I will need to get a Cartech fmu? I have yet to get a damn FP gauge. So I'm not sure what my fuel pressue is now. Think I'm going to try a '93 Lude Fuel regulator w/ B&M, since it seems to be the lowest.
Note: Pressure with regulator vacuum hose disconnected
- '93-95 H22(33-40psi)
- '93-95 H23(36-43psi)
- '92-95 D-series(40-47psi)
Just picked up a D16A6 head and race spec cam for my litle D16z6. So money is a litle tight. Shoot me the part# on the FP gauge and Cartech FMU. Thanks
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'95 Civic EX w/ JRSC(6psi)& Nos 25 shot,JG TB, Stillen 4-1 header, HKS 2 1/4 exh., '93 Lude VTEC fuel pump,MSD 6 BTM w/ Blaster SS Coil,APEXi SAFC, Autometer Boost/ Air-Fuel gauges, Centerforce D/F clutch, Act lighten flywheel, Eibach Pro's,Tokico Illuminas,Tenzo Front/ Rear Strut tower braces Best et: 13.98@101mph w/NOS
IN PROCESS:1992 5g VX Hatch w/ 93 Prelude 2.2L Vtec(donor)
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Hey Lundgren, try turning off the relay so your fuel mixture will not be overly rich on the top end.
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Mr Rogers: I'd like to get to those pressures, now I'm at 45, 60, 70, but want to be at 40, 55, 65 I think. I also think rafe's mod will be needed, of some sort of another.
Bigkat: Well you have two problems, the lower pressure, the rise rate also. I don't know if the SAFC will allow you to tune that much fuel out. It depends on what size injectors you have. But I wouldn't use the SAFC to change fuel throughout, but to only fine tune fuel at certain RPM points. I'm actually planning on getting the V-AFC, and fine tuning it at certain RPM points. The cartech FMU part number is on my site, and the FP gauge is from autometer, Zip has it, I'm not sure.
Zip: I cannot turn the relay off. Turning it off would mean rich all the time. I would have to modify the relay, so it never closes. I'll try it though.
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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/
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Well if your rising rate fuel regulator is adjustable, then you should be able to lower the rise rate, and modify the base line. The Vortech FMU does this, I'm not sure if it's the one you have or not.
I use the B&M to lower static pressures. Somewhere from ideal to what you have now there is an injector that's right for you, but I cannot say. I'd contact Greddy, and see what they have to say.
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http://www.netbsi-kc.com/integra/
http://www.netbsi-kc.com/aa/
http://www.groupbuycenter.com/
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Lund- you are using the B&M to lower the "Static" (no vac present) or the "Off boost" pressure? I like the sounds of the pressures you are seeing http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/biggrin.gif This setup spells Safe and happy boosting at 8psi http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif 40psi idle, 55psi static, & 65psi tops is what I am getting from your post, right? Also, did you just slice your lower cushion in half or did you go pick up some shorter ones? About lowering the pressure (Off boost I am assuming) is it safe to assume (though I don't like to assume anything) that enlargening the regulator plate opening to the regulator will open up our bottle neck or is it more involved then this? I know that Rjaffe used the bypass method but we could skip that part and just change to part that we are "by-passing" and not by-pass it at all.
psicvc-you will not be able to tune the injectors down with the Vortech that you have, it is probably set somewhere around 12:1 because of your low off boost pressure. Basically what you would be doing is getting the larger injectors and then if you add the B&M to the mix you will be able to lower it to a certain point but you will be *Stuck* with the non adjustable rising rate which will give you a way too rich mixture once you start boosting. In terms of injectors, I think that the largest tolerable size should be choosen so that you have room the *Grow* (MORE BOOST http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif) At this time it looks like the 310's are the best match for us JRSC teg guys but this might be different for you. Do some research on the Civic boards to see what others that have gone b4 you, and go from there.
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98 GS-scR w/ 8psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Airmass header, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S safeguard, Ground Controls and KYB AGX's, and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down and soon to go on a Carbon Fiber diet,RC 310 steriods,and new sticky foot wear of the 555R type
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Whoops...I meant leave it connected permanently or by jumping the red/yellow wire, so there isn't any further enrichment.
