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Problem number 1:
My recently changed supercharger belt has started squeeling so I tried to adjust the tensioner pulley. the "gross adjustment nut seems a little rounded and I had trouble getting anything to hold on to it. (any advice?) I also tried to turn the fine adjustment bolt and guess what happened? - the top of the top of the bolt twisted off [img]mad.gif[/img] What do I do now? Does anyone know how I go about getting a replacement for this bolt? You can see the shaft of the bolt with a hex nut still on it in the picture below. The top of the bolt has been sheared off.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...d/fd37bcb9.jpg
Problem number 2:
I was driving my son to school and was unable to avoid driving over some Texas road pizza (flattened armadillo or opossum - it was dark and I barely saw it). While going through a touch free car wash, my CEL came on and is showing one long light. Can anyone tell me what that means. BTW, I have the service manual and cannot seem to locate the codes in the book. Anyone know if they are in there and if so, where to find them?
Thanks!
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Problem #1: Go to OSH and get a new hex bolt (fine grade).
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One long blink should be code 10 (IAT) sensor, which is found before your throttle body on the intake tube OR on the Intake Manifold, this will depend on if you moved the IAT sensor or not when you put the blower on.
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Thanks for the replies.
redintegra:
[img]redface.gif[/img] OSH?
Is there a particular size/pitch to "fine grade" (In my profession (foot surgery), I have to specify a particular pitch/diameter to every screw I put into a patient's bone.) It's a good thing I know human anatomy more than my car's! [img]biggrin.gif[/img]
BoostedEX:
Yeah, I found the code in my manual. I'm not exactly sure what it looks like, though. It's dark out now so I will check this area tomorrow.
Thanks again!
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Tom,
The bolt is a 6mm x 1.0 pitch.
You mentioned the "coarse" and "fine" adjustment... well, I hate to break it to you, but this is NOT how the pulley is adjusted.
Loosen the 12mm headed bolts (that means two) on either side of the bracket that the pulley is attached to. The front side bolt is located near the pivot point of the adjustment screw that you broke. The rear side bolt is the fulcrum point of the bracket in which the pulley swings on... it is found almost all the way rearward on the manifold side of the assembly... very close to the blower. LOOSEN BOTH OF THESE FIRST. Now, using the really long 6mm x 1.0 bolt with the 10mm head (and 10mm jam nut), screw it down (making sure it makes contact with the pulley swing bracket at the recessed dimple that you see in the pic above) until the proper tension is reached. Now, manually spin the jam nut down until it touches the bottom stop. Using a deep well 10mm socket, tighten BOTH of the 10mm (long bolt and nut) parts together to lock it down in place. Once this is done, tighten both of the 12mm bolts that you loosened at first.
Remember that the 10mm bolt nut is not designed to "hold" the tensioner in place... but merely the adjustment point. The two 12mm bolts hold everything steady... much like your power steering adjustment... the small wing-nut style 6mm bolt adjusts the pump to the proper height and then the two 12mm bolts passing through the bracket from the header side hold everything in place.
By the way... BoostedEX posted a pic a few days ago with pointers marking both 12mm bolts that I referred to above. Take a look at the pic... it will make things easier.
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Yep, 6mm x 1.00 x 60 is the size, and I couldnt find it at any local Home depots, which means its time to order from Jackson...it cost me $7 shipped for that bolt, no joke!
You may have a hell of a time getting it out of the circular "nut" its in as well. I cant get mine out at all, its completely stuck. I pulled it off, popped it in a vice, cut deep into it and tried turning it with a flathead even. Nothing. Wont budge. I dont even want to see what JR charges for that "custom" part [img]frown.gif[/img]
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I have literally stopped into hardware stores in Massachusetts, Texas, Minnesota, New York, Rhode Island, Pennsylvania, Ohio ETC ETC... that is a 60mm long bolt, a weird size NO ONE HAD IT!!!!
I sucked it up and got it from Jackson also...
If someone finds a boatload of these:
6mm x 1.00 x 60
Buy the whole box and let us know you did! [img]smile.gif[/img]
Chuck
<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ October 01, 2002 11:30 AM: Message edited by: 96IntegraRS ]</font>
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Chuck -
How the hell did you get the snapped bolt out???
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OSH is a hardware store here in my neighbourhood. Its a national chain so I think you should be able to find it anywhere. The didnt have 60mm, they had 70 so i took the 70mm one
http://www.osh.com/Web/default.asp
What I meant by fine and coarse is the bolt thread itself. A fine thread bolt would fit in a fine thread nut. same for the coarse.
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Man, I LOVE this board!!!
Jim, your detailed instructions are just what I needed. Thanks for your tactfulness in poiting me in the right direction. [img]redface.gif[/img] [img]redface.gif[/img] [img]redface.gif[/img] I guess I really have no business poking my head under the hood, but lurking around on this board gets my testosterone levels rising. For most of us, under many different circumstances, this can usually lead to trouble and this was no exception. What I really need is a way to get you and my car to meet someday. I'm sure it is running nowhere near it's potential, but It still brings a smile to my face when I drive it.
Boosted EX: Thanks for the picture - the perfect addition to Jim's text - you guys are great. Any chance you have a picture of what the IAT sensor looks like?
Unfortunately, I didn't get to take a look at the car today - It seems like Thursday might be my first chance.
Thanks again!!!!!
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Tom,
I think you should poke your head under-hood more often... however, it may be prudent to reach out for help BEFORE you create a nightmare there as opposed to reaching out for assistance AFTER the damage is done. The former route typically generates better results and a less stressful environment to synergize with your car.
Now, about that Intake Air Temp sensor: It just so happens that in Tim's photo above, there is a white component with a grey connector plugged into it... this would be the IAT sensor. The two wires coming off it (red/yel and a green/(white or black trace)) are where I would look first. Make sure everything is making good contact. Remember that in the JRSC installation, this red/yel wire is cut and spliced... merged with the JR fuel enrichment relay.
If all this seems fine, I suggest you remove the two #2 Phillips head screws holding the sensor to the manifold and see if the end is burned/damaged/broken. If it is, then replace it.
Lastly, you can bring your car down anytime. I would be honored to help you find a few more ponies in it.
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I snapped the head off of it, so I was still able to spin the bolt freely to get it out [img]smile.gif[/img]
While I was looking for another one, I turned it upside down and used Red Loctite to secure a nut on top to turn it, and a "lock nut" in the middle.
The 50's are very common but just a hair too short.
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Very cool man....mine wouldnt budge. It was completely stuck. WD40, a couple pliers and some muscle and it eventually popped out!
My threads were stripped from the pliers as well, so I had to saw off the end of the bolt, then carefully pull it out, and VERY carefully slide the new bolt in and "rethread" the nut. I need to find a tap n dye already! [img]tongue.gif[/img]
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Well, I finally got to get under the hood today and I think I found the sensor. It unclipped the connector and re-attached it and still got the same code.
I then removed the sensor as JrCivic described and looked at it. (Duh...OK...what should it look like?...)
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...6/fd327caa.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/...5/fd327ca8.jpg
What do you think? I put everything back and still get the same code.
<font color="#a62a2a" size="1">[ October 06, 2002 05:29 PM: Message edited by: GSRDPM ]</font>
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You need to check the OHM reading across the two terminals of the IAT sensor. I do not know what the value range is right off the top of my head... but I can look it up for you tomorrow at the shop if you don't mind giving me a call. If you have a HELM's manual, it will be listed in the troubleshooting section for this sensor.
If this reading is within range... then I suspect you have a problem with the two wires going from the sensor to the ECU. Check for continuity on both and make sure there are no open circuits and/or shorts.
