-
Okay here is the problem. My turbo prelude died when I was just cruising last night. I wasn't boosing. The car lost power and sputtered to a stop.
The car starts up and idles just great. But it will only rev to about 3K and then fall back down to idle speed. When put into gear the motor doesn't have enough power to move the car and the rpms drop to nothing.
The plugs, rotor, distibutor cap and fuel filter have less than 10k miles on them. I checked them out throughly this morning and all look okay. Plugs look normal. I tried a new set of plug wires and it didn't help.
**The car drove okay this moring when the motor was cold, then the problem came back. ** I asked a mechanic at a honda dealer and they didn't know. I disabled all extra elctronics to help find the problem but nothing helped.
I don't have a CEL coming on at all. Please help!!
-
Though I don't know the specifics about your car, I would gather to say it's electrical. I had Fords back in the day, (Go ahead and laugh), and when the ignition module used to get hot the car would die, not rev, stall out etc. As soon as it would cool of, boom, it was like nothing happened until it heated up again. I'm not sure how the honda system is, but I'd look for sources of heat near the distributor. Electrical devices build up resistance when hot and do funny things, thus my hypothesis. Sorry, I couldn't be more specific and give you an answer.
-
Probably in a case like this, I'd disconnect a sensor to insure that the ECU is capable of setting a code (sometimes the ECU fails and you won't get a CEL)...
It sounds sensor related though, since it runs ok cold (preset perameters, no sensor inputs)...
Normally a sensor failure like your experiencing (if that's the case) would trip a CEL...
------------------
Donny
Import Specialty Automotive
(253) 473-2606
-
How about a bad fuel pump relay?
Greg
-
or a faulty fuel pump. It's known that the distributor/coil are notoriuos for crapping out in the ludes. Have some ASE certified tech check out the basics then someone who knows about the aftermarket electronics and turbo's check those.
-
If you have any MSD ignition system of any sorts...disconnect it. It's probably the culprit.
-
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Holden:
How about a bad fuel pump relay?
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Generally when a fuel pump/main relay fails, it will fail on initial start up (actually initial no start) http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/frown.gif ...
------------------
Donny
Import Specialty Automotive
(253) 473-2606
[This message has been edited by Import Tuner (edited June 22, 2001).]
-
I agree with registry... this same thing happened to me. I had the MSD 6AL and the Blaster SS coil. When the engine was cold the car would run fine, but as soon as the radiator fans would turn on, sure enough the car would die with no CEL or anything. I removed the MSD and Blaster SS coil and the car was running perfect again.
Jasper
-
I don't have any aftermarket ignition components.
-
Well, I replaced the cap, put on new ngk wires, new fuel filter and checked all the wiring to the fuel pump (stock).
The car still has the same problem. I am going to replace the rotor and coil shortly. Hopefully it will fix the problem.
I have another question. When the key is turned to the ON position the pump runs for 2 seconds. My pump sounds high pitched at first, then tones down. Is a properly running pump supposed to change tones like that?
-
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by inlinefour:
I have another question. When the key is turned to the ON position the pump runs for 2 seconds. My pump sounds high pitched at first, then tones down. Is a properly running pump supposed to change tones like that? <HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Depending on how long the car has been shut off, the pump will whine at a higher pitch until the fuel system is pressurized between the pump and the regulator...
Are you hearing a good audible click from under the dash area, when the CEL goes out after 2 seconds?...
Remember the main relay is actually (2) relays incorporated in (1), and while the fuel pump may run, the ignition side of the relay may fail...
(It's fairly common)... http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/cool.gif
------------------
Donny
Import Specialty Automotive
(253) 473-2606
-
Well, I changed the coil and rotor. The problem remains still. It must be fuel related, nothing else seems logical.
The timing marks all line up on the motor. The compression is 210, 210, 210, 195. The fuel pump must be bad.
If one of the relays goes out, the car just won't start, right? My car starts fine, it just won't run worth a shit.
Thanks for your help guys. I need more. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif
-
<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by inlinefour:
I need more. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
More What ?...
Money to throw at this thing (ie. the fuel pump must be bad)...
A Helms manual is only $60.00 or so, and It'll tell you how to test certain components that cost well in excess of the cost of the book...
Just a friendly observation... http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/cool.gif
------------------
Donny
Import Specialty Automotive
(253) 473-2606
-
-
I'd try to find someone who had the same OBD type 'Lude ECU and swap it out. See if it helps.
It doesn't sound like it's related to a physical component, unless it's a sensor. And I've heard of a few 'Ludes having weird ECUs. Giving them all sorts of weird problems, usually the idle/partial throttle performance is bad. Whenever it's on closed loop mode, it seems to run OK.
Just an idea...
