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I just installed my JR Map Converter tonight and my car runs (as we say in Boston) PISSA! The car has absolutely NO TIP IN DETONATION at all. I even had my JR BTC setting only 1 click to the right (the air is nice and cool tonight). It's just so much more enjoyable to ride because I like to gradually get into the gears than full all out revs. The engine seems to be running a lot better. I was having trouble with the stock JR fuel enrichment system before this, but now it's finally cured. For anybody with stock injectors, it's a pretty good fix. Let's see $359.00 for the BTC, $179.00 for the Map Coverter, and $80.00 for the fuel pump. It's really starting to add up! We may of got a deal on the blower, but the other add-ons will killya.
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Sorry, forgot to put my signature. It's been awhile.
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"99" GSR Emerald green sedan-6 psi /JRSC,Walbro 255 lph fuel pump,AEM CAI,Comptech stainless 4-2-1 header,Comptech stainless exhaust,MSD 8.8 ignition wires,Comptech upper and lower strut brace, Comptech sport springs,DC short throw shifter, JR btm, chrome KMC Tarantula wheels on Toyo 205/45ZR 16" Proxes T1S tires, Power Stop cross drilled rotors, metal master brake pads, stainless steel brake lines, KYB/AGX struts, Energy Suspension motor mount inserts, Piaa 1700 plantinum driving lights w/Pia Super whites replacement bulbs,walnut woodtrim interior
Wing/future dark tinted windows and very proud!
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I think the MAP converter is probably a better solution to fuel enrichment than the relay, but if you don't have tip-in, I don't know if it would be worth $179 or not. I wouldn't get it if you have bigger injectors, either.
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Registry, what is your set up? What car are u running? I have a GSR w/ BTC...I don't hear any detonation at all..even with BTC knob at 0. I removed the TP trick..car running fine..only occasionally when start up, the stupid JR FMU sticks... http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/mad.gif
Do you think the JR MAP will benefit me?
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The Map controlle is much better than the fuel enrichment relay. that relay was more of a bandaid by todays standards, because at the time there was noot enough technology at an affordable price to do what the map controller does.
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Does anyone know what effect the MAP converter would have on mid-range, part throttle detonation? I am currently pulling a lot of timing with a J&S Ultra V2, would this thing work in conjunction with the MAP voltage limiter on the J&S Ultra?
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Quad..
Here's my setup : 97 GSR, 6 psi, J&S Ultra v1, JR fuel pump, stock injectors.
I've had the part throttle (closed loop) mid range (4k-6k) knock you describe for the past two summers. Accompanying this would be (sometimes severe) hesitation. Well I installed the JR map converter (pulled the IAT relay/pressure sensor, never got to the TPS mod) yesterday and no more detonation (so far).
The J&S sensitivity is ~10 o'clock and all is quiet during part throttle/midrange/loaded situations whereas before it would consistantly take a few degrees out. I even bumped the base ignition timing back to 16 deg w/o any det.
As far as I know the J&S limiter lets you adjust the map sensor voltage up or down linearly across the output range (ppl let me know if this is inaccurate) as well as limiting the maximum voltage the ECU sees (boost). So the J&S and JR map controls should work together. There really isn't a need for the J&S limiter as the JR box effectively does the same thing (limits max voltage the ECU sees in boost situations).
Anyway hope this helps. My first de-lurk http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/smile.gif.
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after you installed the BTC, were you still getting detonation after cranking the btc timing all the way down?
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I did have the btc setting all the way to the left and a couple of times, when I got on it hard, I could hear slight pinging. When I give it 1 click to the right, nothing! I run normal 16 degree stock time and run Sunoco 94 octane, so if your running a lower octane you may need a little more retard in the btc setting. Please note that at partial throttle there was no tip-in detonation at all, even all the way to the left. I am extremely happy with my car now, even at 6 PSI...It's strong!
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"99" GSR Emerald green sedan-6 psi /JRSC,Walbro 255 lph fuel pump,AEM CAI,Comptech stainless 4-2-1 header,Comptech stainless exhaust,MSD 8.8 ignition wires,Comptech upper and lower strut brace, Comptech sport springs,DC short throw shifter, JR btm, chrome KMC Tarantula wheels on Toyo 205/45ZR 16" Proxes T1S tires, Power Stop cross drilled rotors, metal master brake pads, stainless steel brake lines, KYB/AGX struts, Energy Suspension motor mount inserts, Piaa 1700 plantinum driving lights w/Pia Super whites replacement bulbs,walnut woodtrim interior
Wing/future dark tinted windows and very proud!
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Just wanted to add 2 cents on my install. Took about 1 hour (I didn't do it, I am better at watching and pointing...). Reset the BTC to far left. Used to have it 2 clicks left of center to get no detonation with no passenger, no AC running. Car runs better, no detonation even going up steep hills in 5th with the AC blasting (it was ~90 F). I notice that my A/F meter now reads rich during part throttle accel. Before it would still be cycling and that is when I would get detonation. I do notice that it tends to cycle a little more on the rich side during highway speeds, maybe it is my imagination. All in all, I am pleased with this band aid. Gonna do Hondata ASAP, though.
[This message has been edited by satitus (edited July 25, 2001).]
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For those members who live at higher elevations, the MAP controller may cause a CEL since the MAP voltages will be higher than the barometric sensor within the ECU.
http://forums.clubsi.com/ubb/Forum12/HTML/006743.html
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Mods
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I ordered mine, and might install it this week. We'll see if Denver causes this error or not.
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What exactly does that MAP controller do? It sounds like it is just a MAP sensor voltage clamp, though it adds something... some sort of fuel intervention that adds some injector duty during tip-in?
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by registry:
I did have the btc setting all the way to the left and a couple of times, when I got on it hard, I could hear slight pinging. When I give it 1 click to the right, nothing! I run normal 16 degree stock time and run Sunoco 94 octane, so if your running a lower octane you may need a little more retard in the btc setting. Please note that at partial throttle there was no tip-in detonation at all, even all the way to the left. I am extremely happy with my car now, even at 6 PSI...It's strong!
<HR></BLOCKQUOTE>
Well I've been running the car at 16deg since day one..no detonation whatsoever...I installed the JR BTC..duh..overkill...needless to say, setting is at 0 click mark...i don't need I'll waste the $$$ on the JR MAP. It's funny, every car is diff. as far as detonation goes..
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I get codes from time to time since installing it. Mine is throwing too rich/ too lean though (code 45).
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how does the map convertor works? would I need it if I'm planning to get hondata? thanks
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Anybody throw a code 10-54 and their car started sputtering ebonics?
hahaha
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92 Chevrolet Corvette LT1
00 Acura 3.2 TL
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What is involved in the installation of this MAP converter?
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Install a small adaptor under the MAP sensor, "T" into a boost line, and wire six wires at the ECU. It is pretty straight forward.
Watch the directions... the wire colors and the pin locations my NOT match.
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'93 Civic Si H/B with B18C1, JRSC @ 8psi
Best 1320: 12.68 at 110 mph
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So it effectively moves the MAP to a place where it will see actual manifold pressure and limits the signal back to the ECU right?
I'm not sure what else it does but what does everyone think about moving the MAP and putting check valves in line like on a turbo kit? This might be a poor man's way of improving the transition from vac to boost.
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Bill Winters
Houston, TX
'94 bone stock GSR w/ home made CAI (Soon to be JRSC'ed)
