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http://home.nycap.rr.com/ghjrsc/pipe1.jpg
http://home.nycap.rr.com/ghjrsc/pipe2.jpg
I wonder what dragging with the cutout open will be like? http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/wink.gif
I may have to get a flange section rotated. It looks a little out of kilter. Two O2 bungs as a bonus!
oh yeah, I forgot... It's 2 1/4". $45.
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Greg Holden
96 GSR, JSRC @10psi, All the Goodies!
Best 1/4 ==> 13.937 @ 101.41mph (at 6psi)
My JRSC Install Site
[This message has been edited by Holden (edited April 26, 2001).]
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Well as long no one gets under your car they wont even notice. I'll tell you that you wont win a beauty contest with it or win best of show. LOL
But it works. Is that a product of texas. Hey, I finally talked to that guy today. We are going to pay him a visit on Monday to work out some stuff.
art
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Does it fit nicely under there? hee hee.
As long as it fits nicely who cares how it looks..=)
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isn't that gonna create havoc with exhaust flow when you cap off the side out (i assume you cap off the side outlet so you have a functioning muffler for daily driving?)
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yeah, its ugly.. lol
-but its the adapted concept from the V-8 boys... open headers at the track.
-maybe if you can dyno test that piece, to see if you really gain enough to justify it ?
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96 civic.
<> In the Workz <>
-B18a1,Endyn rods,Endyn pistons (9.3:1)bored 20 over,Federal Mougal Rod Bearings,Honda Main Bearings,Arp rod bolts, Arp head studs,Clutch Specialties Stage 3 Unsprung,Ported Polished Head,Federal Mougal Windshield Wiper Blades(seriously,soon to boost...
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Holy shit that thing is some ugly http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/eek.gif But it'll def. do the job http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
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98 GS-scR w/ 11psi JRSC, Walbro HO fuel pump, AEM cai, Endyn Kamikazi header, Godspeed testpipe, Thermal Exhaust, Skunk Works cam gears, J&S Ultra safeguard v1, RC 370's, Cartech FMU, Vortech regulator, Apex-i
V-AFC, H&R sports and KYB AGX's,ITR LSD, JR flywheel, Clutch Specialties stage 4, MSD digital 6 & HVC coil, Endyn stepper pulley, NX nitrous and of course to slow down, KVR X-drill F&R rotors and Carbon Kevlar pads and V1 to signal the slowing down.
Best et ==>13.6 @ 103mph w/ 2.3 60ft on Nitto drag radials @ 8psi of boost
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Hey, don't set anything on fire when you take that plate off. You're gonna throw some flames for sure. http://www.hostboard.com/ubb/biggrin.gif
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Turbulence Schmurbulence!!!
It's better than the stock cat I have on now.
If this thing goes on like butter tonight (i.e. in 30 minutes) I'll have it to race on tomorrow. If it doesn't, I'll still be on the stock cat.
Yes the cutoff is opened only for the track. The guy who sold it to me said it was good for +18hp on his turbo GSR. I don't know if that is open vs. closed, open vs. cat or closed vs. cat.
Greg
Greg
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They sell those in either jegs or summit, I dont remember which..you can open it with a lever from inside the car..
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Excuse me but what the hell is it? Look like some kind of test pipe but what's with the split?
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I rember what i did was just take the whole exhaust off from the header....i just cut the bolts....took 2mins a bolt. hee hee...
or is there acutally a better way? Are the nuts from cat to exhaust suppose to be super tight??
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Actually JC Whitney sells them too; they even have one that with a valve on it that you can open with a cable release from inside the car! That would be pretty cool.
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Damn, is that what it is?? open header? it's going to be a loud ass four banger. Ear plug I'm telling you..
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I've been under the car, and this looks like a perfect fit.
As expected though, the nuts on the cat/b-pipe flang will be a challenge. Even though I coated them with anti-sieze last time I had them off two years ago, now I can't even get a 13mm socket on them (and I think they're really 12mm nuts!).
So no open header for me tomorrow. Plus I have a nice chunk of fun for next week. I bet I end up pulling the whole exhaust off to get it done.
I'm going to clean the pipe and coat it with some ceramic/metalic manifold coating I have sitting around.
Greg
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Get a deep 12mm or whatever, a hammer, 1 1/2 to 2ft breaker bar, put the car on jackstands, hammer the socket on and use the breaker bar to snap the bolts.. screw trying to reuse those damn things.. buy three more bolts & nuts, total of $1.50 max at a hardware store and put it back on.., If the nuts are rusted and oxidized lookin like that, just put some ass behind it and snap the bolts... I put my "test" pipe on like that in a total of 15 minutes..
--A
[This message has been edited by 00civic (edited April 27, 2001).]
